Marrakech

Living in a city that gets more than double the number of tourists as residents yearly, there’s a big industry that caters to tourists. The number one question I get is where to eat in Marrakech. It makes sense. Whenever we’re out we see hundreds of them walking, eating, and enjoying the city. But, sometimes – ok lots of times – we cringe when we see what they’re eating. This post isn’t meant to say scare people – don’t be.

But after saying too many times in my head “oh, you really don’t want to eat that,” I knew we had to do something! So here’s what to eat, and how to plan a culinary travel adventure when you visit Marrakech.

People walk away from Morocco and think one of two things about the food.

If they’re like my dad they say, “no way, I never want to see another tajine in my life.”

If they’re like my mom they say, “when’s the next meal ready?”

Besides palates what makes the difference? My dad came here fifteen years ago and we took a pre-arranged tour. We ate chicken and potato tajine almost daily for 10 days – and it wasn’t even that good.

My mom? When she comes we eat meals at home and in some of our favorite restaurants for the entire stay. Needless to say they both have very different opinions of the food in Morocco based on the circumstances surrounding their visit. Keep in mind many of the best restaurants in Marrakech, aren’t what you might think of as “restaurants.”

So, let’s get the negatives out of the way first.

What to avoid eating in Marrakech

• Do not buy cookies from carts in Djem al Fna. They might look good but the quality isn’t the same the ingredients, well who knows. Instead stick to patisseries. Patisserie Prince just off the square has really good cookies and pastries plus a nice interior sitting area to enjoy a treat without being hassled.
• Likewise most of restaurants in the immediate square area are not that good. They’re not dangerous to eat but they don’t have the same care and attention paid. Opt for a pizza or other non-traditional Moroccan food or risk being disappointed with your meal.
• Be careful eating at the food stalls in Djem al Fna. Almost every single article I read about food in Marrakech touts the open air food stalls in the square. But, there are only a few that you’ll see Moroccans eating at. Look for the ones that have many Moroccan families eating. If all you see is tourists, keep your distance. We realize many people want to have this experience and so we’ve been researching the best stalls – see below.
• Street food vendors selling fried fish. Marrakech is land locked so it takes some effort to get seafood here. Fried fish, french fries, and other fried treats are sold in street vendor stalls. I would encourage you to avoid all fried fish that you didn’t see how it started (freshness). Any fried foods you’re buying make sure to check the oil first. Just a peek is all you need, and it’s usually in plain view. If it looks dark colored or that it’s been in use for awhile- keep walking.
• Ground beef can be iffy. Make sure any that you eat is cooked well – no rare or medium rare meat is advised.
• Just because it’s expensive or fancy doesn’t make it good. There’s some really amazing high class food here, and there’s some really pretentious places that have mediocre food. Don’t take a high price as equating high quality.

If you’re lucky, then you are coming to visit friends who will hook you up with some amazing eats. If you’re not, I’m going to share where we like to eat in hopes that you’ll enjoy it too.

What to Eat in Marrakech

Le Warner; Avenue Yacoub El Marini, Residence Al Andalous IV, N9A

A post shared by Amanda Mouttaki (@marocmama) on Nov 5, 2016 at 3:33pm PDT

We rarely go out for breakfast, not because I don’t like to but because typically it’s either something quick at home or eaten past the traditional breakfast hour. But, when we do go out we love this place. Spoiler alert it’s not traditional Moroccan breakfast. If you’re looking for breakfast in Marrakech consider visiting.

This restaurant has a 1950’s American dinner theme but the food is a mix of American and European flair. They do serve food all day but we love their breakfast. Pancakes, waffles, eggs and HUGE breakfast plates are a few of the things on the menu. It’s one of our kid’s favorite places too.

Snack Othman; Boulevard Moulay Rachid, near Winoo – Gueliz

Expect big crowds nearly every morning for breakfast but if you come early your chances of grabbing one of the handful of seats is better.  The menu here is really simple. You can order the beldi breakfast which is fresh batbout bread with the above condiments; honey, olive oil, argan oil, honey, and amalou as well as olives. You also can get khlii with eggs. Khlii is Morocco’s famous dried meat that’s packed in fat and then melted down along with fresh eggs. It’s something you should try! To drink choose from Moroccan tea of a Moroccan smoothie with your choice of seasonal fruit.

Cafe 16 Place du 16 Novembre; Gueleiz

Located in the Marrakech Plaza, between Djem al Fna and Gueleiz is Cafe 16. I like this cafe because it offers simple foods that lack quality elsewhere. My favorite items are their salads that remind me of salad in the United States. Plenty of lettuce and toppings plus good dressings. The menu changes seasonally. They are open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. The price is a little more than you’d pay in a neighborhood cafe but you can enjoy a filling lunch for 100 dirham or less.

Places to eat in Marrakech for lunch and dinner

This is the biggest meal of the day. Anytime between roughly 12 and 2pm people take lunch. Dinner is served later, much later. It could be anywhere from 7pm – 11pm. There’s usually a “coffee break” (goute) in between.  So, where do we go?

Bejghueni; 65, Rue Mohamed El Bekal | Gueliz

This is one of our favorite places to take guests that are visiting. The restaurants on this street almost all serve a variety of grilled meats along with sides and starters. Some have a more Middle Eastern feel than Moroccan. But, overall they’re packed full of Moroccans with few tourists in site. You pick and choose what you want. Feel free to add more as you go. You can also get specialties like grilled sheep liver and heart which may not be for everyone but they do it well. I love their lamb and chicken kebabs, stewed white beans, and tomato salad.

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Naranj, Riad Zitoun Jdid, Medina

This is one of my go to restaurants where I know I am guaranteed to have a great meal. There are a lot of options whether you eat meat or you’re a vegetarian. The menu is Lebanese/Syrian inspired and you won’t find a tajine in sight. If you want to come for dinner, make sure to have reservations. Lunch is usually easier to find a table.

The Food Stalls in Djem al Fna

When people ask me where to eat in the square I tend to balk. But I know it’s a huge draw, an exciting atmosphere and something to experience. Recently the government has installed hand washing stations, water stations for vendors and standard stalls and seating. I still stand by my opinion that there is better food to be found elsewhere.

However, if you really want to have the experience I recommend Stall 93 or 31 for grilled foods and Stall 14 “Krita” (there’s also a stall right across the way that is part of this “franchise” for seafood. The owners of stall 14 also owns a seafood restaurant in Gueleiz. At either place you’ll get good seafood, cooked fast, and insanely affordable. Tips to make your dining experience better – look for stalls with lots of Moroccans eating. Stick with grilled foods – don’t go for tajine or couscous here.

A post shared by Amanda Mouttaki (@marocmama) on Oct 27, 2017 at 3:16pm PDT

Le Trou au Mur – Derb Fernatchi – Medina

It’s very rare that I find any restaurants that really surprise me. But, the first time we ate here I was honestly very impressed. You will find several classic Moroccan dishes on the menu here that you’ll never find in another restaurant. There are also a few international dishes in case you’re tired of Moroccan. But, what I can say is that the flavors of real Moroccan cuisine are spot on in what they serve. I appreciate the subtle changes to appeal slightly more to a western palate (mostly including more textures in the dishes), while still remaining true to Moroccan flavors and traditions.

Ksar Essaoussan, 3 rue Essaoussan, Medina

We agree that some of the best food in the city is well hidden. It can be hard to find especially if you’re not sure what you’re looking for. Last month we were invited to dinner at Ksar Essaoussan by some friends. The restaurant is so well hidden they have a man in a red cloak waiting at the nearest big street to help you find your way. It’s in a renovated riad that serves only as a restaurant – no on-site accommodations. Reservations should be made, but what you’ll find is a really great (dinner) meal of traditional Moroccan food for a very reasonable price. Their small menu, which is more than enough, comes in around $35 per person for all courses and drinks.

Amal Women’s Training Center and Restaurant, rue Allal ben Ahmed, Gueleiz

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again. One of the best lunches to be had in the city is at the Amal Center. The quality is always reliable, and the cause couldn’t be better. Come for couscous on Friday but come early or make reservations because it’s increasingly popular not only with tourists but locals too. Their menu changes daily but there’s always options for vegetarians and always a mixture of authentic Moroccan and international food. Be sure to linger over a pot of tea and cookies.

Cafe Clock, Derb Chatouka, Kasbah

Cafe Clock, of Fez fame, has opened a new restaurant in Marrakech. The location is in the Kasbah – MarocBaba’s “home neighborhood” and we enjoy stopping in for the food as much as the memories. This restaurant is as much a cultural center as it is about the food. Thursday evenings play host to amateur storytellers who share the stories of Marrakech’s famed Djem al Fna storytellers BUT in English. Concerts, art displays, yoga classes, cooking classes – you name it and it’s probably happening here. They’re famous for their camel burger (yes real camel meat) but the menu really does offer something for everyone. 

Can't take a tour or want more help planning a food lovers trip to Marrakech?

I’ve put together a guide that has over 50 of the best restaurants in Marrakech, insights on what to order and what you’ll find on menus and so much more. This PDF guide will help you take the guesswork out of dining and stop relying on TripAdvisor restaurant reviews to make your best guess on where to eat.

Grab your PDF copy of the complete guide to eating in Marrakech before you go!

MarocBaba and I also offer walking food tours of even more great places! We have several different types of tours though our most popular is our evening Marrakech street food tour. Our goal is to provide visitors with the opportunity to taste the real food of Marrakech, the kind that you would experience in someone’s home and not just the tourist version of Moroccan food. We have nightly tours available and it’s conducted in English. You can find out more and book your tour by visiting our website Marrakech Food Tours.

You might not know it but New Year’s Eve is party time in Marrakech! There are events, dinners and parties across the city and at all different price levels and experiences to be experienced. I’ve put together this list of events quickly in case you’re visiting Marrakech this time of year and looking for something fun to do.

Le Studio

This French restaurant in Gueliz will be throwing a black tie affair beginning at 20:30 on New Year’s Eve. A set menu is available at 1200dh per person. Reservations required.

Bazz’art Lounge

Enjoy live music and three course menu to celebrate the New Year. From 990dh per person. Reservations required. 

Cafe du Livre

With over 30 different tapas and live music all night you can party at Cafe du Livre into 2019. They also offer on tap beer and cocktails (additional charge) but the price for this evening is fantastic! Just 350dh per person. Reservations by calling – 0524.44.69.21

Riad Noir d’Ivorie

This beautiful riad will be offering a delicious specialty menu for New Year’s Eve. The multi-course offering will be accompanied by live music. The event is limited to 30 people so you will experience an intimate evening. Dinner is 2500dh per person. To make reservations and view the full menu visit their website. 

Patron de la Mer

One of Marrakech’s great new restaurants will offer a special New Year’s Eve meal. A welcome glass of champagne followed by multiple courses, live music and dancing. Reservations a must – more information and full menu available here. 1300 dirham per person.

Murano Resort

Events begin at 19:30 with small bites followed by dinner and a variety of music throughout the evening. Family friendly event with adult entrance at 1500dh and children under 12 from 700dhs. Email Samira: [email protected] for reservations. 

Manzil la Tortue

Watch for updates soon!

La Villa des Orangers

Enjoy a fantastic menu from in-house chef Jean-Claude Orly. Dinner includes glass of champagne and five course menu. From 2800dh per person. Reservations required.

Sofitel Marrakech

The Sofitel will put on a dinner with music, dancing, and a wide range of events throughout the night. Dinner includes multiple courses as well as a glass of champagne or wine. From 3000 dirham

SO Night Lounge also will have their own party on the theme French Cabaret. More info and reservation information here.  

KIDS NEW YEAR’S EVE Party
A New Year’s Eve on the theme of “the far west” only for children in a private space with a total care from 7pm to 1am. Parents may enjoy their night among adults. Children under 4 years old must be accompanied.
Children under 12 years old: 750 Dhs

Reservations required for both events – for more information visit their Facebook page. 

Epicurien

Dinner and live entertainment beyond just music. This year’s theme is Tribute to the Legents. Admission includes dinner, a live concert, dancers, musicians and more. Reservations required. 1350 dirham per person.

Entrepotes

A spot to consider to dance. This year’s theme is Studio 54. Entrance is 450dh. Reservations required.

La Mamounia

It’s lauded as one of Marrakech’s most historic and stylish addresses so it makes sense they’d have a great party to celebrate the New Year!  Live music begins at 7pm and continues well into the night. Dinner options begin at 1800dh per person up to 4000dh per person excluding drinks. Dinner options are available in all of the restaurants and galleries. For more information visit their program for the winter season. 

Ling Ling at Mandarin Oriental

The Mandarin’s Asian restaurant will put on a hidden New Years Eve dinner with three live music groups playing throughout the evening. From 2888dh per person. More information and contact for reservations via Facebook. 

Dar Zellij

Offering welcome drinks on the rooftop and starters followed by a complete Moroccan feast, live music, a gnawa band and belly dancers you can have a full evening here. From 1700dh per person. For a full menu and to book visit their website. 

Buddha Bar

This year Buddha Bar will present the theme of Far East for their New Year’s Eve celebrations. With multiple shows, live music, and a DJ the party will last all night. Cold and hot menu items will be served throughout the evening. 2500dh per person inclusive of one glass of champagne, additional drinks extra. To make a reservation contact directly ([email protected])

Pullman Marrakech

Uptown Funk is this year’s theme at the Pullman! Events begin at 20h with live music, a dinner show, champagne and surprises. Contact the hotel for pricing information and reservations.

Movenpick Hotel Mansour Eddahbi

The Movenpick will be putting on a fabulous buffet dinner for New Year’s Eve. The menu features a wide range of international and Moroccan offers and an impressive dessert bar as well. Prices at 450dh per person. Reservations are requested. More info here.

Looking to party? Visit this post on where to go out in Marrakech for more information.

…to be continued!

 

 

If riding a camel is on your travel bucket list when you come to Marrakech and Morocco, you won’t need to travel far out of the city to do so. Usually an animal synonymous with the sensory sand-dune adventures of the Sahara, or along the beaches of Essaouira, you can experience a 1-hour camel ride within 30 minutes of the City.

You’re unlikely to see the one-humped Arabian camel or dromedary wandering wild in the medina, or modern centre of Gueliz, although stranger things have happened! Their preferred habit is arid, desert vegetation. They’ve not herded together in the wild here, for nearly 2,000 years and were first domesticated about 4,000 years ago.

What experience is available?

There are a range of experiences you can try depending on your travel schedule, budget and your fitness levels. You can book a camel ride in advance with travel agents and tour providers who specialise in camel tours, or, you can travel to the two main areas where camel trips are organised, and choose which guide to try. The duration of the ride you want, and whether you’d like to combine the experience with a desire other areas can determine the experience. Although you can have a 5-minute or up to 2 hour experience, most tourists say a 1-hour trip is long enough without getting saddle-sore!

Where are all the camels?

Surprisingly, there is a small herd of camels basking in the sun outside Menara Gardens and Menara Mall. Although not possible to book in advance, you’ll find a local guide offering 5-minute walk arounds for anything starting from 100DH unless you are skilled to barter the price down. Keep in mind that the less you pay, the less money may be allocated to feed and care for the animals.

The majority of camel rides take place in the Palmeraie or Palm Grove. You can reach there easily via taxi or horse-drawn cart from either Jamaa el-Fna Square or the area of Majorelle (taxis and caleche are located nearest to the Koutabia, or at the end of Rue Yves Saint-Laurent). Most tour providers that you book in advance will ensure hotel transfers at the start and end of your tour.

What are the benefits of booking a camel tour in advance?

Although you see a small herd of camels outside the gates of Menara gardens and Menara mall, you may find it reassuring that certain tour providers can arrange hotel transfers, limited liability insurance to protect from possible accidents, and even mint tea with a local village. Being able to view the included services and tourist reviews on their site is likely to enhance a feeling of trust and safety.

Seeing and paying a fixed price means you’ve no haggling with the local guide, and you’ll ensure you are paying a reasonably fair price. Compare a 5-minute experience haggled down from 100DH not booked in advance, to a 1 hour ride for $20 booked and paid online before you go. Not only is that helpful for you to budget and plan your day around the experience, but it means it contributes to the healthy upkeep of the camels too. How travelers can help camels in Morocco.

What to expect?

Camels have been used as a means of transport for thousands of years and although this may be the first camel you’ve seen, your ride will certainly have seen hundreds of humans! They are very social animals and don’t be surprised if they go to blow in your face as that’s their form of greeting one another too.

Safety-wise, camels are languid souls and are fairly safe to ride if you’re following the sitting and holding position correctly provided by your guide. Like all animals, they can act unpredictably under unusual circumstances, so always follow the rules of the ride.

Depending on if you’ve chosen the short and sweet trip next to Menara or the longer tour that includes added food or travel experiences, even up to the Agafay Desert, or adding in quad-bike fun, the most you can expect is something unique.

Not renowned for being the most comfortable of rides, the best thing on board your camel, is the heightened view and getting to imagine yourself transported into an Arabian story among palm groves or relatively dry lands and sands.

You might also consider booking one of these tours that get great reviews!

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YSL Marrakech Museum has encouraged a surge of new tourists and visitors to the City, hungry to view the award-winning architecture and iconic Yves Saint-Laurent fashion design. Winning ‘Best New Public Building’ by design magazine Wallpaper* in 2018, international fashion and design-lovers are flocking in their hundreds daily, to snap a piece of the designer’s celebrated history. Alongside the already popular Jardin Majorelle, where Saint Laurent’s ashes are buried, the museum’s story and legacy reads like a further script in an already interesting biography.

What’s the story behind the Museum?

The Fondation Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent opened the cultural space to continue to preserve and showcase the uniqueness of Yves’s creative legacy. A permanent Yves Saint Laurent Exhibition Hall with a rotating collection from the archives and a Temporary Exhibition Hall will ensure there is always something fresh to see.

Who designed the building?

Karl Fournier and Olivier Marty are the design duo behind Studio KO who have an office based in Marrakech. Previously commissioned to redesign Villa Oasis, Bergé’s Tangier home, the life and business partners were given the design brief of a building that was “strong, Moroccan, contemporary, and above all, absolutely uncompromising.” You could say those were values you could say that they aspired to in life too. The weave-like brick texture of the exterior walls is the only explicit reference to the designer.

What collections can you see there?

The YSL Exhibition Hall greets you with rarely seen design sketches, personal letters and photographs that piece together a colorful and committed career in fashion. Early prototypes showcase that North Africa and Morocco has as much influence on the designer as he has had on the City of Marrakech since. It’s an interesting collection of 50 pieces that reflect a liberation in womenswear and span themes of “Masculine-Feminine, Black, Africa and Morocco, Imaginary Voyages, Gardens and Art”. Photographs are not permitted in this part of the museum.

The Temporary Exhibition Hall has shown a stunning painting exhibition by Jacques Majorelle, and currently is showing sculptural pieces by Moroccan designer, Noureddine Amir. In time, it will welcome rotating exhibitions across the genres of fashion, art, design, anthropology and botany.

What’s the history behind the bookstore?

Every piece in the museum has a reference to part of the designer’s life. The bookstore is inspired by the Rive Gauche ready-to-wear boutique and houses an impressive range of books covering Saint Laurent, fashion history, Morocco, films that inspired him, and the catalogues and books about the temporary exhibitions. This is where you can buy a piece to take home with you, if you choose.

What’s the secret behind the garden?

The landscape designer Madison Cox, widow of Bergé and previous friend to Saint Laurent, was commissioned by the Fondation Jardin Majorelle to promote water conservation and planting of ecologically responsible plants that are suited to the climate of the city. You’ll find Papyrus, Philodendron and the prickly pear (that looks like a cactus) among other beauties. Keep your eye out for the beautiful plants and vines that frame the neighboring buildings to the Museum too.

How long will the queue take to get in?

Although the queue is increasingly long to Jardin Majorelle, you can purchase your ticket to the YSL Museum in a relatively short space of time. Peak times are between 10 and 2, so you’d wise to visit late afternoon (after 4pm) or arrive before 10am so you’re first there when they open their doors.

If you’re planning on visiting Jardin Majorelle too, pencil in a whole afternoon for your visit, as the queues there are on average, over an hour long each day (in the morning and afternoon).

Where can I eat and drink?

Inside the YSL Museum, there is Cafe Le Studio named after his Parisian workspace. It’s light, bright, with indoor and outdoor seating and feels calm (if you catch it off peak time!). You can get a range of teas, coffees and juices, and a changing menu of French influenced meals with local fresh ingredients. If you’re headed to the Jardin Majorelle, you can also choose to eat in their beautiful garden cafe too, though slightly pricier.

There is also the local Kawa 16 and Pause Gourmand on Rue Yves Saint Laurent where you can order a good coffee or “nuss-nuss”, fresh smoothie, and light lunches or main meals.

What photography tour is recommended?

There’s a beautiful light on the Museum exterior before the queues arrive and after the doors close, where you can see the changing sunset colors. The tourist queue and passing taxis don’t obstruct your view of the building at these times.

Visible 24-hours a day, the YSL logo is famously emblazoned on the entrance wall, encircled with sunlight on most days. Strike a pose for Instagram, like so many do!

One of the most striking pieces of the whole museum to photograph, is the Senufo Bird African statue, majestically towering tall and against a stunning jade-colored tiled and glass wall.

Within the museum itself, let your lens wander, looking for perhaps the art within the art, or better still, just be present, and soak in the memories with your eye.

After your visit, you could imagine you were in the shoes of Saint Laurent (quite literally), and head down to the Jamaa el-Fna square. Snap iconic styled photos or selfies with a backdrop of locals, or if you find a traditional barber shop, why not ask permission to take a snap inside, like the iconic shot of his muse, Catherine Deneuve?

The next day, you could treat yourself to a spa day at La Mamounia, where he went on his first visit in 1966, and is a favorite photoshoot location for fashionistas, travelers and Instagrammers wanting a perfect shot against the still iconic design.

Also check out the Secret Ride from Marrakech Insiders which will take you behind the scenes of St. Laurents world. Mention MarocMama when you book for a special gift on your ride! 

Museum Information

Open daily except Wednesdays from 10:00 am to 18:00, rush hour between 10:00 and 14:00.
Last admission at 17:30. Admission is 100DH or 170DH if you combine it with Jardin Majorelle.

Travel tip: when leaving the museum, you’ll be stopped by taxi-touts. They charge exuberant prices for tourists (they quote between 50DH and 100DH for what should be a 10-20DH ride per person). If you go to the end of Rue Yves Saint Laurent and turn left at the horse carriages, you’ll find petit taxis where you can request they put the counter on to give you a fair price. If they refuse, know that an average price to Gueliz is 10DH, 15DH to Kotoubia and up to 20DH to the Mellah, including tip.