I have a small obsession with Moroccan rugs. By small what I really mean is that I have a big problem. I just can’t resist them! Aside from basic house goods I haven’t bought many decorative items for our Marrakech house- except for these. Just the other day we were at a rural market and as soon as my mother in law saw me eyeing rugs she grabbed my arm and pulled me away. Yes, I am simply that in love with them!
The good news is I’ve been through the ringer and have more than a decade of rug experience behind me, so I can share this with you! The first rug I bought was nearly 15 years ago from a rug shop in Fez. I later learned I had paid WAY too much for this rug but what did I know? I was 19 and all I wanted was that rug. For a long time it was the only “adult” thing I owned. While I made do with second hand furniture and thrift store finds my rug always had a prominent place in my home and was my daily inspiration to get on the road again.
Don’t Want to Read Everything – Jump Ahead!
Bargaining
Don’t Appear Too Interested
Guides and Commission
Antique and Aged
The Fire Test
Look Around
Avoid the Women’s Co-op Ploy
What Should a Rug Cost?
How Do I Take Care of My Rug?
What’s the Best Rug Shop in Marrakech
A bit of background on Moroccan rugs. The majority you’ll find it shops are made by one of the forty-five distinct Moroccan Berber tribes in the country. Each one has a unique style and every rug is handmade on a loom. It’s most often done by women in their free time. Rugs can take anywhere from 10 days to 6 months to make depending on size, complexity and how much time she has. Rugs first and foremost are used in homes or for celebrations. They then are sold as goods or traded.
When you come to Morocco and want to buy a rug (or a zerbiya – the Arabic word) to bring home with you keep these things in mind.
1. Bargain, Bargain, Bargain
In case you missed this point, you need to bargain for your rug.
Do not, I repeat DO NOT accept the price offered to you in the shop.
Even at the best shops, it’s inflated right off the bat. Bargaining here is part of the game. The salesmen knows you aren’t (well you shouldn’t) accept his first offer. Many people are afraid of going too low. Fear not. Drop that price by as much as 2/3 to start with and work from there.
You should eventually expect to meet somewhere around 50% of the original price. If you know you are already out of your league at 50% off the original price – move on. There are some shops that bargaining is not on the table. They will be upfront and tell you this to begin with. You can choose to accept that or not.
If you’ve agreed on a price you really shouldn’t back out. When you finally do commit it’s in really bad form to then change your mind and walk away. Wait to agree completely until you are 100% sure. There’s no contract yet but it’s a spoken agreement.
2. Don’t Appear Too Interested
Love a rug? Just have to have it?
Don’t let the shopkeeper catch on to it or you’ve lost one of your biggest bargaining chips. Instead act nonchalant. Even look at more rugs so that you can eventually come back to the one you really want. Also don’t be afraid to walk away. Rugs are one of a kind it’s true but many times when you walk away the salesman will come back and reduce the price or agree to the last price you gave.
But, if you appear very interested and just HAVE to have a specific rug the salesperson is not going to be as flexible with pricing. They’ll see that you are likely willing to pay more because you really want it.
3. Guides and Commission
This is a little secret that not a lot of people know. Guided tours are a great way to see the city but many guides (especially in Marrakech) have gotten a terrible reputation as their only goal is to drag tourists into carpet shops and the like. Sure it might seem like they’re just being friendly but the reality is not quite as nice.
You see many guides and shopkeepers have an arrangement. For every dirham you spend your guide (or driver) is going to get a cut. They have a personal stake in you NOT getting the best deal because the lower the price you get, the less money goes in their pocket. This is the reality.
This may be unavoidable but if you do want to buy things and have a guide, know he’ll get a portion so maybe you really don’t need to give an extra tip when you part ways. Don’t be afraid to speak up and do your own bargaining. Don’t trust everything that’s being said and remember it’s YOUR money that’s being spent!
In many cases a guide can be a really big help and asset to have when you’re touring the city or shopping. I completely agree with supporting guides who want to do good by you. I also believe that consumers have the right to know what the system is so that they can make an informed choice.
4. Antique and Aged
If you walk into a shop and are told a carpet is antique don’t trust it, especially if you don’t know the difference. There is a whole industry of “aging” carpets that will be sold as antiques. If you really want to buy an antique you need to be sure to do your research, so you know what you’re getting. Chances are also pretty good you won’t find rugs here that date beyond the 1920’s or 30’s. Even in the best condition they’ll have natural fade and the fabric will be frayed. Remember rugs are used for practical not decorative purposes. So an “antique” rug that’s faded but otherwise in perfect condition – not likely.
If you don’t know what you’re buying and don’t have a lot of experience with antique rugs I would encourage you to be very careful. Like with anything if you don’t know what you’re buying you can’t really judge the value of that item. For your purchase you might consider something that you simply love vs. buying an investment piece.
5. The Fire Test
Authentic Moroccan rugs are made from wool. One way to tell if you’re getting a real wool rug or a synthetic is to hold up a lighter to one of the loose edges. If it doesn’t light or puts itself out it’s wool. If it ignites it’s synthetic. Chances are if you pull out a lighter and it’s fake, after the dealer has told you it’s authentic he’ll get quite nervous.
6. Look Around
I could get lost in rug shops for hours and if you’re not sure what you want you should too. Spend time looking around and seeing what you like.
But, don’t ask for prices until you find something that you do like.
If you’re in a shop and are having a hard time deciding set aside a variety of items that you do like and start asking prices. If you’re really unsure what rugs will cost go to a fixed price shop first. There are typically artisan centers in larger cities. For example the Ensemble Artisanal in Marrakech will have all varieties of artisan goods for a fixed price. Walk around, look at prices, and then go into the souks (or pay the fixed price if you prefer!) This will give you an idea of what things cost without the pressure and sales hacks.
7. Avoid the Women’s Co-op Ploy
If I had a quarter for every good-hearted tourist that has bought into this I would have my own rug shop. I get it, you want to help. You want to support the people making these rugs, who most of the time are women. But here’s another dirty little secret, most of the “women’s co-ops” are that in name only.
The women are getting a pittance of the sale. You might say “oh it’s ok I’ll pay more because it will make a difference,” no I’m sorry but it likely will not. The women get a fixed price (trust me it’s not much) for their rugs and whether it sells for that price (not likely) or 100x more, they make the same amount. There’s one free trade co-op in Morocco that I trust. It’s called The Anou. You can order online and have it shipped or if you’re in Morocco they can likely arrange delivery to you.
What Should a Rug Cost?
People ask me this all the time and it’s impossible for me to answer this question. There are dozens of variables that affect the price of a rug.
Age, style, design, condition etc. etc. are all variables. Where you buy the rug in relation to where the rug was made, how much the shop paid for it, how popular that style is at the present time also come into consideration.
A small rug may only cost you 750-1000 dirham. However an average price ranges in the 3500-6000 dirham range. Older vintage and larger rugs can range from 10,000-25,000 dirham and more. Buying a rug is not “cheap” but it is MUCH cheaper than buying it outside Morocco.
What Should I Have With Me When Shopping?
If you’re planning to shop for a rug don’t go empty handed. You will want to have an idea of the size of the rug you want or need. This is very important. Keep in mind sizes are done in metric and most rugs are not made in the same dimensions as western rugs. They are typically much more rectangular to fit in Moroccan homes.
You also should have some ideas of colors and designs that you like. A Pinterest search will pull up hundreds of different Moroccan rugs. Familiarize yourself with some of the names of styles you like. Every tribe in Morocco has a different style so when you say “Moroccan” rug it encompasses a LOT of different styles and designs.
Also have an idea of your budget and what you want to spend. It’s easier to pay for things with cash than a card as there’s often a surcharge for using a credit card. If this is the case make sure to work in the charge to your final price. If you will need shipping, this should be included too.
How Do I Take Care of My Rug?
Good question! I’ve written a post that is all about how to clean your rug once you get it home! You should always take care and if you’re unsure or afraid to do this – don’t. Take it to someone who can professionally clean them.
How to Clean Moroccan Rugs at Home
What’s the Best Rug Shop in Marrakech?
I haven’t been to EVERY rug shop in Marrakech but I have found a fantastic shop that I think will take so much of the pressure and guesswork out of buying a rug. Not only that you won’t feel pressured to buy and I promise you’ll be getting a really good deal. I met one of the owners of Vintage Moroccan Carpets on one of my shopping adventures and I’m so glad I did. The images in this post are all from their shop.
Why should you check out this shop?
First, if you want to deal with someone that is honest and straight forward you’ll find that. They have ALL kinds of rugs at ALL price points. You can find lovely small rugs starting around $250 or you can find gorgeous vintage rugs that are the real thing and not just made to look vintage (though expect to pay more!) If you won’t be in Marrakech, they do online orders with guaranteed delivery (they’ll also ship your rug home if you’d rather). If you want to see more of what they have find them on Instagram @vintagemoroccancarpets.
If you want a wider selection or are looking for something a bit more specific visit Les Nomades de Marrakech next door. It’s one of the largest shops you’ll find in Marrakech and honestly they really do believe in doing right by their customers. They aren’t out for a one time swindle. They want you to walk away happy and not feeling like you’ve been sent through the ringer.
WORD OF ADVICE: You DO NOT need a guide to visit either of these shops.
Do not listen to anyone on the street that tells you they are closed or not open, or anything of the like. They will then “offer” to take you to a different shop that they work with and request (or force) you to tip them for the convenience of taking you and they will get a cut of anything you buy.
IT’S NOT TRUE!
Feel free to visit either or both of these shops on your own. They have staff that speak English and will be happy to assist you.
How to find them;
The shop address of Vintage Carpets is 29 Zaouiat Lahdar Kaat, Benahid 40030 Marrakech – it’s very close to the Ben Youssef Mosque. The door to the shop is fire engine red so you can’t miss it! Hours are 10-18 daily. You can just turn up or you can schedule a time to visit (call at +05 24 38 18 45 in Morocco). It may appear that it is closed (the door is closed) just knock or ring the bell.
Les Nomades is right around the corner and has very large signage that you can’t miss.
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Hi,
Your blog made execellent reading, so much useful information, i just wish i had read it before we got to Marrakech!
We bought a rug this morning from Les Nomades in Marrakech and ever since i bought it i have been feeling nervous about whether we got a good deal or whether we got swindled…. fortunately your post has out me at ease a fair bit. We had no idea what prices were like but were shocked when our favourite rug there was 47,000DH. It was thick wool, 3m x 4m and very colourful. I am very good at bartering and eventully bought it for 14,000DH. It took a long time to get him that low and i felt good about the deal at first but then i felt worried that it was his plan from the start. Your review would indocate otherwise though. Do you think i got a good deal?
Thank you!
Kieran
Sounds to me like you did a great job! For a rug that size it sounds pretty fair.
Hi! Thank you so much for your blog! So very interesting!
Unfortunately I have no trips to Morocco in the near future, but have still been dreaming about Moroccan rugs for years. I am finally in the market to buy one or two. Do you have any ideas about buying rugs from local traders online from overseas? As it is probably impossible to tell quality from photographs alone, I am looking at rugs from somewhere reputable like your recommended Les Nomades.
Thank you!
Les Nomades will work with you to sell online but also https://www.theanou.com/ is one of my favorite resources for buying fair trade rugs.
Hi Amanda,
I will be in Marrakech in a week or so and I was wondering if you knew the best way to ship rugs back to the USA.
Also, if you will be in town I would love to meet!
Thank you!
The easiest way is to have the shop handle shipping – take pictures of the shop name and get contact information. If it’s not too big in your checked luggage. Or you can go to the post office and mail it directly back to yourself.
Thank you for this blog. I wish I had read it before I arrived, but it did help put my mind at ease, a bit. I got “pushed” at bit on my first day into a shop, and I had every intention of leaving but of course they give you tea and go on and on making it hard to get out… (of course I could, but again it was my 1st day in Morocco ever). I wasn’t even planning on buying a rug… but somehow I now have a rug and blanket. The rug isn’t huge, and I felt paying 3,900 for both the blanket and rug I might be getting ripped off. But seeing your post, I see at least I might still be in the “normal” range. (I did bargin)
He started with 450 American dollars for the rug, and 250 for the blanket. (About 6,800 dh) so I didn’t quite get 1/2 off… but close.
Hi. Great tips here. I will be in Fez and Tangier. Where is best to buy? and best option to get rug to England??? Thank you, Monika
I think you’ll have more options and selection in Fez than in Tangier. Typically shops will ship for you – when negotiating the price do so to include shipping – will save you the hassle and extra costs.
Hi Amanda,
Great blog!
My girlfriend and I are in Marrakesh this very moment and she would love a genuine Berber carpet.
Should we go to the Berber village for the best price and quality or should we go to the right of spice square at el fna in medina?
Thanks for your reply
Regards
Daniel
The rugs sold in Marrakech are genuine – you’ll just need to bargain hard to get a good price. If you’re open minded and not set on any specific thing then it won’t hurt to just go and start looking!
Hi Amanda,
This very helpful thank you so much for sharing.
I will be travelling to Morocco early next year and of course would love to buy a rug. If I want to get it sent home so I don’t have to take it with me, is it difficult to arrange this? Would I be able to arrange this with the carpet seller or would I need to go to a shipping place?
No it’s not difficult to arrange. Many shops will handle shipping for you. You should talk to them about this while you are negotiating the price of the rug. Also make sure to keep copies of your receipts. I recommend paying with a credit card in this instance so that you have an extra safeguard if the rug should not show up for some reason. Keep the vendors name, receipts and even a picture of the rug before it is packaged. If it doesn’t show up you can work with the card company for a payment reversal.
Hello, I can’t see this question being asked yet. Would you recommend buying a rug in Marrakech or Fes? Thanks, Jen
You’ll find different styles of rugs in different cities, so it really depends on what you want.
Hello Amanda, I’m so glad I found your blog! I’ll be in Morocco in late February and am trying to learn as much as I can.
I really do want a rug but I have never bargained in my life. If I tell a seller that I want to look around, will I offend him? I tend to accept the first price (or just say NO if I can’t afford it, and walk away) and will have to try very hard to keep in mind NOT to do it.
Good tip about the guides taking a cut out of a sale.
You won’t offend anyone, don’t worry. Know what you’re willing to pay and don’t agree to anything else. If it doesn’t work out, it wasn’t meant to be. They bargain all day, every day so they won’t be offended.
Oh I wish I saw this earlier! Never mind. I don’t think I did too badly though. I didn’t do the lighter test but have managed to buy a pretty decent rug which I believe is handmade from my observations and comparisons. They gave me price of £800 and I managed to get it to £200. (Yes in GBP, I’m from London, UK). Does that sound decent or have I been duped?
Can’t tell too much without knowing the type, age, size, condition etc of the rug 😉 Sounds like you did ok though!
Loved this 🙂 Thank you!
Hi Elena. Thanks for your guide, very helpful. I am going to south of spain, and will take the ferry to one of the cities along the shore of Morocco. Do you know if it’s possible to by rugs there, or is it only in the capital?
Hi – I’m Amanda and I think you’re asking me? It’s possible to buy rugs all over Morocco – the styles may vary and price will be different depending on what you want and where you are.
Hi Amanda,
Im planning to go by myself to Marrakech, Would you be interested in doing a 2 day shopping / culture plan and assistance for my short trip?
Thank you in advance,
Best regards Jo
Hey Joana — drop me an email and let’s talk 😉 amanda @ marocmama.com
Thanks for the info. I am from to Morroco in April and plan to d some rug shopping. Any advise on mailing the rug(s) back home…..better to take care of myself or are there reliable carpet shops who will do this?
Either option exists — honestly probably easier to have them ship but they also can pack them quite small so it may be more cost effective to bring back in luggage unless you’re buying several.
Oh I wish I’d read this before my trip last year! Against my better judgement, I accidentally bought a rug on my first day in Marrakech without knowing what to watch out for. My wool rug has prickly wood shavings (or maybe hay?) that are embedded, making it uncomfortable and potentially difficult to walk on them barefoot. The wood shaving appear to be intertwined with the wool. I also have a wool blanket from Fez that has a similar problem. I have yet to find anything online that discusses this problem. Have you encountered something like this before and do you know how I can fix this?
Thank you Amanda for sharing the wonderful Anou website!
Thank you so much for pointing me towards the Anou. Great organisation, beautiful rugs and real bargain prices! Now I just need to decide, which rug to buy…
Hi Amanda
You said that The Anou is a great organization.
Do you know about Maslouhi in Tamslouth, a smalle Village near Marrakech .
Thank you
Hi Tita – I’m not sure exactly what your question is? I know Tamslouth but am not familiar with the smaller village you mention.
Hi Amanda,
Great article! I have been tirelessly searching for information on buying a carpet in Morocco with not much luck. I have read that many of the rugs in cities such as Marrakech and Fes can be manufactured or not as they are being sold as (do you recommend one city over the other, and why?). How can one avoid this, or know what they are really getting? Is it better to purchase a rug in a smaller town outside of the main touristy city, or are there still good deals to be had within these areas? Do you know of any other resources on Moroccan carpets so I could educate myself on the history and process, to better understand what I am purchasing? I am very much looking forward to my trip next May, and hope to bring home something from the beautiful country.
yes they can be manufactured but it’s pretty easy to see the difference between hand knotting and machine made. There aren’t many old rugs in Morocco so don’t get fooled by that, know that you’re likely getting something that’s made in the last 40 years (or less). There’s not really a better location (city) as most buyers go to the remote areas to buy rugs and bring them to the city to be sold in auctions to the dealers. There are deals, you just need to bargain hard and research what the rugs sell for in the US/EU as you might think oh well that’s not that great of a deal, but I know people buy rugs for a fraction of what they sell for outside Morocco – even if they are paying quite a bit. This is an expensive book but maybe your library has it? http://amzn.to/1Xyfag6 This also is an interesting book on Moroccan rugs http://amzn.to/1MWeglq
Hi Amanda have you been to imlil
I havent – this fall inshallah!
What is the best way to ship rugs and goods back to the USA?
I Love your blog!!!! I am very hopeful to meet you in person when I am there next month. Such wonderful and honest tips! Lol… I can see myself pulling out my lighter 😉 I am so excited for your food tour! I have done a little bit of bargaining in Latin countries, but I imagine nothing like Morocco. I have been studying prices of what goods should actually cost, and certain materials to look at closely. It will be interesting to see how I will do? I read an article today, it said a good time to go out shopping in the souk on your own is on Fridays, when the streets are much quieter, not all of the shops will be open, but many do stay open. I have always been addicted to researching all kinds of things, it’s amazing what you can find on the internet these days. My advice to anyone getting ready to travel anywhere, spend the time researching all kinds of things about the place you are going, type any kind of question you might have into your computer, and you will find many helpful tips. If looking up what you should pay for goods, be sure to include the year you are traveling, so you get updated prices.
Can you recommend the best place to buy a rug in Marrakech? Thx!
Hi! There’s really so many but I would suggest you go to the rug selling area – it’s right off of the spice square, near Cafe des Espice – there’s an entrance. You’ll find dozens of shops in there to start from!
Great tips, amazing blog!
If there are many women’s co-op ploy, are there any that you would recommend that aren’t a tourist trap?
Thank you!!
Honestly, it’s really hard to know. I would say the only way to be certain is to buy directly from the woman herself and even then possibly not. The Anou is a great organization who is selling truly fair trade rugs. The artisans are completely in control of setting their own prices and get all the profit. If you’re in a big city there’s almost a 100% chance it’s not a co-op. Rural areas the possibility increases. If you’re in a shop, bargain really hard because the shop owner will have purchased the rug for a small amount. Don’t let them get away with the co-op line!
I love your blog, Amanda! So much great information. Funnily enough I discovered it AFTER I returned from two weeks in Morocco. Oh well…better late than never.
I didn’t intend to buy a carpet in Fès but I was open to the idea when my tour group was taken to Dar Zarbia. Half an hour later, I was the very proud owner of a stunningly beautiful silk carpet with eight panels, all botanically themed. With the help of Google, I discovered I’d purchased a classic “garden carpet” based on the tree of life motif. While I agonized over the price for a few days, once I got it home, I couldn’t have been happier. I suppose it’s what’s called a “city” carpet made by Arab women, not Berbers. No regrets, only happy memories of my Moroccan adventures!
Aw well I hope I can let you relive your vacation through my blog! As I always tell people, as long as your happy and love your purchase than you have never paid too much or gotten ripped off!
Nah, I don’t think I was ripped off. I don’t think a tourist will ever score a real bargain when negotiating with a carpet salesman, but some post-purchase research suggests I paid a fair and reasonable price. I read one blog that said a Moroccan carpet salesman could sell a herd of camels to an Eskimo. Now that I’ve lived through the process, I’m pretty sure that’s a true statement. 🙂
That said, I love my rug, which combines the spiritual, artistic and natural worlds. And while it may be a compliment paid to many tourists just to make them feel good about their purchase, I was told I barter like a Berber. It’s all good.
I’m heading over to Marrakesh in a week and can’t wait to get my hands on one of these rugs. Would you be able to tell me the average price i should expect to pay if i get them down to a 1/3 of the price they ask?
It really varies so much depending on the style and size of the rug. Some are really common and pretty inexpensive while others are less common and will cost you more. It’s really impossible for me to even give an estimate without more info!
My dad is obsessed with rugs. I shall show him these tips!!
Great tips! I should have read these before I bought mine lol,, my bargain game was a complete fail. I got two and I think they were around 1200D or something can’t remember. I thought it was decent for real wool, but then again I haven’t done the fire test and it’s too late for that now hehe. Next time 😉
I wish I had these tips before going to Turkey! We went to a women’s coop, I showed a little interest and the next thing I know we’re bargaining and I’m buying a rug. It’s beautiful but I have nowhere to put it!
Great tips Amanda! We ended up buying a rug in Imlil after having looked at many in Marrakech. It was quite entertaining to watch my husband negotiate with the shop owner (in this case he was from the Sahara but the rug is from a Berber tribe). I feel good about the price that we ended up with – even if it was still quite an investment.
Hi Elena,
My husband and I are going to Imlil and then Marrakech in March. I am in love with Moroccan rugs and trying to do as much research as possible before I get there! Do you remember where in Imlil you purchased your rug?
Thank you 🙂 Lily