Marrakech

7 Tips for Buying a Moroccan Rug in Marrakech {2019 Update}

I have a small obsession with Moroccan rugs. By small what I really mean is that I have a big problem. I just can't resist them! Aside from basic house goods I haven't bought many decorative items for our Marrakech house- except for these. Just the other day we were at a rural market and as soon as my mother in law saw me eyeing rugs she grabbed my arm and pulled me away. Yes, I am simply that in love with them!

The good news is I've been through the ringer and have more than a decade of rug experience behind me, so I can share this with you! The first rug I bought was nearly 15 years ago from a rug shop in Fez. I later learned I had paid WAY too much for this rug but what did I know? I was 19 and all I wanted was that rug. For a long time it was the only “adult” thing I owned. While I made do with second hand furniture and thrift store finds my rug always had a prominent place in my home and was my daily inspiration to get on the road again.

A bit of background on Moroccan rugs. The majority you'll find it shops are made by one of the forty-five distinct Moroccan Berber tribes in the country. Each one has a unique style and every Moroccan Berber rug is handmade on a loom. It's most often done by women in their free time. Rugs can take anywhere from 10 days to 6 months to make depending on size, complexity and how much time she has. Rugs first and foremost are used in homes or for celebrations. They then are sold as goods or traded.

When you come to Morocco and want to buy a rug (or a zerbiya – the Arabic word) to bring home with you keep these things in mind.

1. Bargain, Bargain, Bargain

In case you missed this point, you need to bargain for your rug.

Do not, I repeat DO NOT accept the price offered to you in the shop.

Even at the best shops, rugs are by and large meant to be bargained for. Bargaining here is part of the game. The salesmen knows you aren't (well you shouldn't) accept his first offer. Many people are afraid of going too low. Fear not. Drop that price by as much as 2/3 to start with and work from there.

You should eventually expect to meet somewhere around 50% of the original price. If you know you are already out of your league at 50% off the original price – move on. There are some shops that bargaining is not on the table. They will be upfront and tell you this to begin with. You can choose to accept that or not.

If you've agreed on a price you really shouldn't back out. When you finally do commit it's in really bad form to then change your mind and walk away. Wait to agree completely until you are 100% sure. There's no contract yet but it's a spoken agreement.

2. Don't Appear Too Interested

Love a rug? Just have to have it?

Don't let the shopkeeper catch on to it or you've lost one of your biggest bargaining chips. Instead act nonchalant. Even look at more rugs so that you can eventually come back to the one you really want. Also don't be afraid to walk away. Moroccan rugs are one of a kind it's true but many times when you walk away the salesman will come back and reduce the price or agree to the last price you gave.

But, if you appear very interested and just HAVE to have a specific rug the salesperson is not going to be as flexible with pricing. They'll see that you are likely willing to pay more because you really want it.

3. Selecting Your Rug

Sometimes it can get a little (ok a lot) overwhelming when you start looking at rugs. There are SO many to choose from that after awhile they can all start to blend together. You also might be shown rug styles that you have no interest in however these keep adding up on the floor and in your mind making for more confusion. Here are a few tips to help you find the right rug without losing your mind!

Have an idea of colors that you do or do not like. If for example you've seen a few orange rugs and hate them, let the vendor know you don't want to see anymore rugs with orange. Likewise if you know you need a rug with blue in it, let them know you want this right away.

Start by narrowing down the rugs you do like. The vendor will pull out rug after rug and lay them on the floor. When you've reached a point where you're not sure anymore stop them. Ask to remove the rugs you do not like and set the ones that are “maybe's” to the side. Once the rugs you don't like are removed, just have them lay out the rugs you do like, this makes it a lot easier to decide what might be a fit.

Keep in mind that the rooms you are viewing the rug in is likely to be a lot bigger than the room the rug will go in at home. So while it might “look small” on the big floor, it might be just right for your home.

Once you've gone through the maybe pile and weeded out the rugs you still want to consider or those that aren't the right fit it's time to decide if you want to see more or make a decision.

If you decide to see more let the vendor know if there's a style of the rugs you've seen that you really like or if you'd like to see something completely different.

Having open conversation and dialogue will not only help you find the rug that you want but will also help the vendor to uncover which rug is the right fit. Some places have thousands of rugs and having a good starting place is really helpful for everyone.

It's also helpful for you to keep in mind what your budget is for purchasing a rug, or at least a roundabout figure.

4. Antique and Aged

If you walk into a shop and are told a carpet is an antique Moroccan rug don't automatically trust it, especially if you don't know the difference. There is a whole industry of “aging” carpets that will be sold as antiques. If you really want to buy an antique you need to be sure to do your research, so you know what you're getting. Chances are also pretty good you won't find rugs here that date beyond the 1920's or 30's.

Even in the best condition they'll have natural fade and the fabric will be frayed. Remember rugs are used for practical not decorative purposes. So an “antique” rug that's faded but otherwise in perfect condition – not likely.

If you don't know what you're buying and don't have a lot of experience with antique rugs I would encourage you to be very careful. Like with anything if you don't know what you're buying you can't really judge the value of that item. For your purchase you might consider something that you simply love vs. buying an investment piece.

5. The Fire Test

Authentic Moroccan rugs are made from wool. One way to tell if you're getting a real wool rug or a synthetic is to hold up a lighter to one of the loose edges. If it doesn't light or puts itself out it's wool. If it ignites it's synthetic. Chances are if you pull out a lighter and it's fake, after the dealer has told you it's authentic he'll get quite nervous.

6. Look Around

I could get lost in rug shops for hours and if you're not sure what you want you should too. Spend time looking around and seeing what you like.

But, don't ask for prices until you find something that you do like.

If you're in a shop and are having a hard time deciding set aside a variety of items that you do like and start asking prices. If you're really unsure what rugs will cost go to a fixed price shop first. There are typically artisan centers in larger cities. For example the Ensemble Artisanal in Marrakech will have all varieties of artisan goods for a fixed price. Walk around, look at prices, and then go into the souks (or pay the fixed price if you prefer!) This will give you an idea of what things cost without the pressure and sales hacks.

7. Avoid the Women's Co-op Ploy

If I had a quarter for every good-hearted tourist that has bought into this I would have my own rug shop. I get it, you want to help. You want to support the people making these rugs, who most of the time are women. But here's another dirty little secret, most of the “women's co-ops” are that in name only.

The women are getting a pittance of the sale. You might say “oh it's ok I'll pay more because it will make a difference,” no I'm sorry but it likely will not. The women get a fixed price (trust me it's not much) for their rugs and whether it sells for that price (not likely) or 100x more, they make the same amount.

What Should a Rug Cost?

People ask me this all the time and it's impossible for me to answer this question. There are dozens of variables that affect the price of a rug.

Age, style, design, condition etc. etc. are all variables. Where you buy the rug in relation to where the rug was made, how much the shop paid for it, how popular that style is at the present time also come into consideration.

A small rug may only cost you 750-1000 dirham. However an average price ranges in the 3500-6000 dirham range. An older vintage Berber rug or larger sized rugs can range from 10,000-25,000 dirham and more. Buying a rug is not “cheap” but it is MUCH cheaper than buying it outside Morocco.

What Should I Have With Me When Shopping?

If you're planning to shop for a rug don't go empty handed. You will want to have an idea of the size of the rug you want or need. This is very important. Keep in mind sizes are done in metric and most rugs are not made in the same dimensions as western rugs. They are typically much more rectangular to fit in Moroccan homes.

You also should have some ideas of colors and designs that you like. A Pinterest search will pull up hundreds of different Moroccan rugs. Familiarize yourself with some of the names of styles you like. Every tribe in Morocco has a different style so when you say “Moroccan” rug it encompasses a LOT of different styles and designs.

Also have an idea of your budget and what you want to spend. It's easier to pay for things with cash than a card as there's often a surcharge for using a credit card. If this is the case make sure to work in the charge to your final price. If you will need shipping, this should be included too.

Shipping a rug from Morocco is possible and while you can handle this yourself by visiting the post office it can be a frustrating process that takes quite a bit of time. If you can work shipping into the deal with your rug it will be much easier for you.

How Do I Take Care of My Rug?

Good question! I've written a post that is all about how to clean your rug once you get it home! You should always take care and if you're unsure or afraid to do this – don't. Take it to someone who can professionally clean them.

How to Clean Moroccan Rugs at Home

What's the Best Rug Shop in Marrakech?

I haven't been to EVERY rug shop in Marrakech but I have found a fantastic shop that I think will take so much of the pressure and guesswork out of buying a rug. Not only that you won't feel pressured to buy and I promise you'll be getting a really good deal. I met one of the owners of Vintage Moroccan Carpet on one of my shopping adventures and I'm so glad I did. The images in this post are all from their shop.

Why should you check out this shop?

First, if you want to deal with someone that is honest and straight forward you'll find that. They have ALL kinds of rugs at ALL price points. You can find lovely small rugs starting around $350 or you can find gorgeous vintage rugs that are the real thing and not just made to look vintage (though expect to pay more for older and larger rugs) If you won't be in Marrakech, they do online orders with guaranteed delivery (they'll also ship your rug home if you'd rather). If you want to see more of what they have find them on Instagram @vintagemoroccancarpet.

If you want a wider selection or are looking for something a bit more specific visit Les Nomades de Marrakech next door. It's one of the largest shops you'll find in Marrakech and honestly they really do believe in doing right by their customers. The shops are connected and have access to the rugs held at each.

It's worth noting that not all rugs are “inexpensive” and that's just a general rule. Many rugs take months to make and a lot of materials, this really has to be considered when you're shopping.

WORD OF ADVICE:

Do not listen to anyone on the street that tells you they are closed (this goes for just about any shop or attraction in Marrakech) or not open, or anything of the like. It's likely the person will tell you this, and then they will then “offer” to take you to a different shop that they work with and request (or force) you to tip them for the convenience of taking you.

Feel free to visit either or both of these shops on your own or with a guide. They have staff that speak English and will be happy to assist you.

How to find them;

The shop address of Vintage Carpets is 29 Zaouiat Lahdar Kaat, Benahid 40030 Marrakech – it's very close to the Ben Youssef Mosque. The door to the shop is fire engine red so you can't miss it! Hours are 10-18 daily. You can just turn up or you can schedule a time to visit (call at +05 24 38 18 45 in Morocco). It may appear that it is closed (the door is closed) just knock or ring the bell.

There is currently renovation going on in this area and the shop may be closed from time to time to accommodate this. If so, you can visit Les Nomades, their sister shop who also hold stock.

Les Nomades is right around the corner and has very large signage that you can't miss.

Ramadan Iftar Meals in Marrakech 2019

8:00 am by Amanda Mouttaki 8 Comments

Morocco doesn't have the same reputation of over the top Ramadan iftar (ftour) buffets as Dubai however more and more restaurants and hotels are offering iftars. If you're planning to travel to Marrakech during Ramadan and have no idea what I'm talking about, let me explain.

At the end of the fasting day the meal is called the iftar (or ftour). There are traditional Moroccan foods eaten in homes. It's often very difficult for visitors to experience what an iftar is all about. So, I decided to collect as many of the iftar meals being advertised in Marrakech so that they're easy to find and join!

I haven't personally eaten at all of these places (though have at many) so please don't consider this my endorsement – I simply wanted to offer a single place to find them. You'll find a variety of price ranges and offers. When possible I've also left a little description.

The dates for Ramadan 2019 are tentatively 5 May – 4 June.

**I have updated this list from last year wherever I could find new information. Please double check directly.**

Ramadan Iftars in Marrakech

Under 200 Dirham

Le Colisee Restaurant – small family-owned restaurant near L'Colisee movie theatre. Serves traditional Moroccan Ramadan fare (no pricing info likely under 100dh per person)

Bazz'Art Lounge – A large buffet offering of traditional Moroccan foods plus international dishes too. Their offerings include sushi too. Main dish tajines plus cheese and charcuterie and desserts available. 190dh per person.

Argana – Located in Jemma el Fna an option for those staying nearby. Head to the upper levels for a good view with the sunset. Three menus available starting at 40dh per person.

Cafe Clock – The cross-cultural cafe housed in the Kasbah neighborhood. They will offer a daily iftar buffet for 70 dh per person.

The Amal Women's Training Center and Restaurant– If you want the closest thing to an iftar at home, make sure to visit Amal in Gueliz. Nightly iftar opens at 1900 (except Monday's). Iftar only for 60dh or Iftar + dinner for 100dh.

NewsCafe – In Gueliz located near the train station, NewsCafe has 6 different iftar menus nightly as well as an a la carte menu. They're one of the only places I've found with a gluten free iftar menu. 29dh – 199dh per person.

Le Bistrot Romain – This restaurant in Gueliz will have an iftar for 99dh per person.

AYASO Concept Store – Our go to spot in Gueliz for gluten-free goods. 90% of the foods on offer are organic and there is a variety of homemade baked goods, eggs, soup, and fruit and vegetable juices. 80dh per person

Cassanova – An Italian restaurant in Gueliz well known for it's pizzas, they offered an iftar last Ramandan. No menu information yet. 100 dh per person.

La Table du Marche – A great cafe in a few locations around Marrakech. The restaurant in Hivernage (320d pp), Menara Mall (160d pp) and near Carre Eden (100 d pp) will have iftar options.

Le Maitres de Pan – Gueliz across from Victor Hugo. Moroccan iftar with pastries and full counter selection (extra). Base price from 50dh.

Over 200 Dirham

Zushi Marrakech – Not a traditional iftar but offering a 30 piece sushi menu during Ramadan for 250dh. Located across from the Marrakech train station.

Fairmont Royal Palm – Is on the outskirts of Marrakech and will have an iftar buffet open to residents and non residents. 400 dh per person.

Le Grand Cafe de La Poste – For a Moroccan/French inspired iftar in a gorgeous colonial building head here. In Gueliz across from Zara. 340 dh per person.

Royal Mansour – Join the staff at La Table for an iftar with live music. Sweet and savory offerings and a build your own crepe bar are on offer. 550dh per person.

La Mamounia – Enjoy traditional Moroccan fare at one of the most iconic Marrakech hotels. Nightly for 410dh pp

Sofitel Marrakech – At the Restaurant L'orangerie a buffet will be offered nightly. 400 dh per person

Movenpick Mansour Eddahbi – Nightly traditional iftar for 320dh per person.

Four Seasons Marrakech – Join the staff from the Four Seasons nightly in their Azzera restaurant for an iftar buffet of traditional Moroccan foods. 390 dh per person. Full day pool pass + iftar also available for 800dh per person.

Mandarin Oriental – One of my favorite hotels and restaurants Mes'Lalla at the Mandarin Oriental offers a sunset buffet daily during Ramadan. They have a day pass and pool option for 680dh per person or the iftar only option of 480dh per person. After iftar there is also a live Gnaoua performance.

Radisson Blu Marrakech – Located in Gueliz on top of the Carre Eden shopping center. They'll offer an iftar at their restaurant Lila for 340dh per person

Le Selman – Luxury hotel Le Selman will hold a ftour buffet nightly on their terrace with sweet and savory traditional Moroccan dishes. 390dh per person. They also have a pool pass + iftar for 690dh.

The Pearl– In Hivernage, The Pearl will be open for iftar nightly at Restaurant Jouhara and have live music to accompany the buffet. 420dh per person

Palais Mehdi – Will be open for Ramadan buffets each night. 280dh per person

Palmeraie Palace – An evening buffet is available for 299dh per person with kids under 12 50% off.

Palais Namaskar – This stunning hotel offers a Ramadan buffet as well as other special offers during Ramadan. 438dh per person.

Marrakech Food Tours – offering a Ramadan experience with small groups and traditional Moroccan foods in the medina. More information and reserve online here.

More information on visiting Morocco during Ramadan can be found here.

The GIANT List of Things to Do in Marrakech with Kids

10:00 am by Amanda Mouttaki 21 Comments

Whether you're visiting Marrakech with kids or you call the city home, there's a good chance you'll be looking for things to do! We're lucky to have endless days of sunshine every year so rainy days don't put a damper on things in Marrakech. You can easily find information about the major tourist sites in Marrakech; Jemma el Fna, Bahia Palace, Majorelle Garden but what else is there to do? Don't worry, I've got you covered.

This list is not meant to be exhaustive and I will continue to update it as I find new things worth including.

General Tips on Visiting Marrakech with Kids

Is Morocco Safe?

The short answer to this is yes, Morocco is safe. Unlike many countries in the region, Morocco has experienced very little turmoil in recent years. As with many large cities there is some pickpocketing and petty theft. It's always best to keep your wits about you and be alert. That being said, when traveling with kids people typically face fewer issues.

Is Marrakech good for families?

Yes! I say it a lot but visiting Morocco in general is a great idea for families and honestly, I truly believe you'll have a better time if you visit with your kids. Moroccans have a family-oriented culture. They love children and will open up to you a lot more if you're visiting Morocco with kids. Traveling in Marrakech is also pretty easy given that lots of the areas you'll be are flat and easy to navigate by foot and with little ones in tow.

Taking a baby to Marrakech

Traveling with a baby is a challenge but you will face most of the same challenges whether you visit Marrakech or any other city in the world. All of the items that babies need is readily available. Moroccans LOVE babies (they love all children) and will go out of their way to help you. To get around bring the smallest stroller possible and/or a wrap to carry the baby.

Best time to go to Morocco

The best time of year to visit Morocco with kids is in the fall and spring. March, April, October and November are some of the nicest times to visit however, any time aside from summer (June-August) is pleasant. You may want to avoid visiting during the month of Ramadan (check as it changes yearly) as everything operates on an alternative schedule. Where to stay with kids in Marrakech? Check out this list of child friendly hotels in Marrakech.

Things to do in Marrakech with Children

Go Swimming

With warm temperatures and sunshine there's no bad time to go swimming. You will however find in the winter months that not all pools are open, and it can be too cold to swim. But, there are more and more heated pools popping up so don't write off swimming in December! Read my post on places that offer swimming for guests and with a day pass. Read More: Where To Go Swimming in Marrakech

Take a Cooking Class

A great way to introduce kids to new kinds of food is to get them hands-on experience. There are several cooking courses in Marrakech but not all are suitable for children. You'll want to double check age requirements with anywhere you decide to book. The Amal Women's Center is one of my favorite places to do classes with kids. You can also ask at your riad if they offer private classes for your family.

Learn some Arabic

Do you want to do something that provides a little educational enrichment? Creative Interactions offers language and culture courses for visitors (both short and long-term) to Marrakech. They have courses that will teach you basic Moroccan Arabic and longer courses that are several weeks long.

Visit a Garden

One thing that is sorely missing in Marrakech are playgrounds but, there's no shortage of gardens. Keep in mind gardens are meant for walking on the paths and not walking or playing in the grass. There are often guardians who will come and remind you not to go on the grass. Harti Jardin in Gueliz is a nice park to go for a walk or scooter ride with children thanks to lots of different paths and usually few people. The Cyber Park is another garden that can make for a good walk. It's located very close to the Kotoubia mosque.

Kids Parks

If you're looking for things to do in Marrakech with toddlers these might fit the bill. There are two small amusement parks in Marrakech that are targeted towards younger children (under 12); Ludipark and Paloozaland. Both are on the edges of the city and do require a vehicle to access. At Ludipark you'll find bouncy castles, pony rides, a mini zoo, and an aquapark. Paloozaland is based on a dinosaur theme and has several rides for kids, a 6D cinema, swimming pool, and live shows.

Check out a Gas Station

This sounds a little strange but most gas stations in Marrakech (and Morocco) have play areas for kids. Some are larger than others. They also have attached restaurants that really do have good Moroccan food. Bring the kids to play and enjoy a tajine while they run off some energy!

Take a Food Tour

Do you have little foodies? Bring them on a food tour! We love having kids of all ages join us. Our youngest guest was just 10 months old and proved you're never too young to try new things! Find out more: Marrakech Food Tours

Hot Air Balloon Ride

Do your kids love a thrill? An amazing, albeit pricy experience to have in Marrakech is a hot air balloon ride. Children do need to be at least five years old.

Camel Rides

People always ask where to go to ride camels in the desert. It's worth noting Marrakech isn't in the Sahara Desert and there's nowhere near the city where you can see rolling sand dunes. But, you can still ride a camel. There are always camels near the Menara Gardens that adults or kids can ride, as well as ponies that children can ride. Another location to ride camels is in the Palmeraie. This is a little more “desert” like. You can take a taxi to this area or arrange a ride with your riad or hotel. Typically it should cost no more than 200 dirham per person for a ride, and can be less if you're good at bargaining!

More info on where to ride a camel in Marrakech here!

Go Kart Racing

Recently we tried out the kart racing at the Moulay Hassan racetrack on the edge of Marrakech. It's a really fun activity for older kids (and adults!) You pay by the race and there are two different types of karts available to race. Marrakech Kart Racing – on the route to Ourika just past al-Mazar shopping center.

Laser Tag

My kids LOVE laser tag and it's fun for them to go on days when they can't be outside. It's also really fun for birthday parties! Lasergames is on the route de Amizmiz.

Bowling

There are several different bowling alleys in Marrakech that you can visit. It's always a good activity for days that are too hot or if there is rain.

Have a Tea Party

Moroccans do tea well! Why not have a tea party? There are a few different ways you can do this. The Royal Mansour offers an afternoon teatime that you can enjoy for 350dirham a person. But if you want a less expensive experience visit one of the many cafes in the city. Order a plate of cookies – choose the ones you like, and a pot of tea to enjoy. I really like Amandine and Les Maitres du Pain for good quality pastries that's still affordable.

Take a Bike Ride

If you have older kids that are confident on bicycles why not rent a bike and go for a spin. There are stations around the city that have bikes available for rent. Medina Bike is the first bike sharing program in Africa. Register online, choose a plan, and check out your bike! There are numerous spots around the city to pick up and drop off bikes.

Henna Tattoos

Everyone needs a henna tattoo in Marrakech! Avoid the ladies in the square (need to know how – here's my advice) and head to Marrakech Henna Art Cafe. All of the henna is natural and safe. You choose the design and know the price upfront. While normally henna is done by women, my boys love getting a little scorpion done!

Wakeboarding

Waky Marrakech is a wakeboarding experience outside the city on an artificial lake. Perfect for older kids and teens!

See a Fantasia Show

Chez Ali is a fantasia show that includes dinner. It's been in operation for many years and gets mixed reviews. See a traditional performance with horse riders, music and full Moroccan buffet. It can be a late evening with the program concluding near midnight.

Chez Ali: Fantasia Show with Moroccan Dinner and Dance

Geocaching

Have you ever tried geocaching? There are several spots throughout Marrakech that have caches. This is a fun way to spend time and explore the city! High Tech Treasure Hunting in Marrakech.

See a Movie

There are several movie theaters in Marrakech. The largest is Megarama that shows 8 different movies. The Colisee Theatre in Gueliz occasionally plays English movies on Friday nights. Most films are shown in either French or Arabic.

Visit a Play Area

There are a few indoor play areas in Marrakech for younger kids. Kawkab Jeaux in the Harti neighborhood (near Harti Jardin) is one. At the al-Mazar mall there is another one – it's across from a bowling alley as well. Both have activities for kids but can be crowded especially on the weekends.

Storytelling at Cafe Clock

Cafe Clock hosts storytelling in Arabic and English on Thursday nights at 7pm. Wednesday nights there are jam sessions with local musicians and on Sundays there is a Gnaoua performance. Any night you show up, chances are there's something going on! Order a milkshake too – your kids will thank you.

Search for Street Art

Marrakech never had large scale professional, commissioned street art until 2016. Now it can be found throughout the medina. It's still a bit controversial given the medina itself is a UNESCO world heritage site. But, if you're an art lover, why not make it a game for the kids? Wander the medina and seek out the installations. Just recently some new paintings went up adding to the collection.

Take a Carriage Ride

You won't be able to escape the carriages – they're everywhere! If you'd like to see Marrakech by 4 wheels you can. You'll want to negotiate the rate ahead of time. I suggest going through the old city vs. new city route. Rates typically are 200-250dh for an hour but like most things in Marrakech – it's negotiable.

Have a Cookie Taste Off

Go to a patisserie and order a few of each kind of cookie and then rate them! Find out which ones your family likes best – even better with a pot of tea on the side!

Scavenger Hunt in the Souks

Mom and dad want to shop but the kids aren't having it? I've created something to keep them happy. Print off this scavenger hunt ahead of time and have them searching for these items while you browse the souks! The scavenger hunt is pictorial for little kids but with more specific items to seek out for older kids.

Just Outside Marrakech

These day trips from Marrakech are fun for kids and parents. Most can be easily done in a day, while others require a little more travel time and might be better for families with older kids.

Marrakech Day Trips

Ziplining

Just forty-five minutes from Marrakech is Terres d'Amanar a great hotel and zipline park. There are activities for little kids through adults. You can stay overnight or just come for a day visit. The onsite restaurant is good and in warm months they have a pool/lunch option!

A post shared by Amanda Mouttaki (@marocmama) on Feb 17, 2018 at 1:43pm PST

Anima Gardens

This new garden was created to combine natural fauna of the area with sculpture art. It's different from Majorelle Garden but any art and garden lovers can appreciate this spot. Anima offers timed entrances so that it's never too overcrowded. They operate a shuttle too and from the city as well – reservations are required.

Agafay Desert

Contrary to what you might find online, Marrakech is not in the Sahara Desert – it's not even close. If you're seeking a desert experience you can visit the Agafay Desert which is just outside Marrakech.

Jarjeer Mules

Love animals? Pay a visit to Jarjeer mule and donkey refuge. The owners of the refuge wanted to create a space to save the working animals of Marrakech when they were no longer useful to their owners. Sadly, many animals are simply abandoned when they can no longer work but here, they've found a home. Visitors can come, be with the animals, or take a walk with them in the foothills. There's no fee to visit but any donations are welcome to help care for the animals.

Berber Cultural Center

Located in the village of Imintanoute, this center/family home aims to bring the Berber way of life to the culture savvy visitor. They offer on-site accommodation which is advisable as it's a long commute to Marrakech. If you want an experience of actually living as a Berber family you'll want to check this out! Berber Cultural Center.

A post shared by Amanda Mouttaki (@marocmama) on Mar 10, 2018 at 1:52pm PST

Visit Asni/Imlil

Head high up in the Atlas Mountains to the village of Imlil where you can ride a mule and take in some waterfalls This little village is the starting point for people planning to hike Mount Toubkal, North Africa's highest mountain. Kasbah Toubkal is a very nice hotel that offers day visits including lunch and a hammam visit.

You can also take a day trip to ride mules and have lunch with a local family. Find out more.

Ourika Valley

A favorite escape for Marrakechi's is a visit to the Ourika Valley. Restaurants line the Ourika River and tajines are made to order. In warm months kids play in the shallow water. If your kids are older you can hike to the waterfalls. There are a series of seven. The first is accessible but the other 6 are much higher and for more experienced hikers.

Go Skiing in Oukaimden

Yes, skiing! In the winter the High Atlas Mountains get considerable snow and one of Morocco's two ski hills operates here. It's not world class by any means but if you want to go sledding or skiing in Africa it's a great opportunity!

Need More Help?

I have a resource, called the Marrakech Magic trip planner that I designed to give you ALL the information you could possibly need to plan your time in Marrakech. There are seven themed itineraries (including one for families) as well information about any and everything you could possibly want to know, do, or experience before and during your time in Marrakech. I've also thrown in multiple bonuses to make your trip even better.

It's like a guide book on steroids!

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Marrakech Scams: Jemma el Fna

10:00 am by Brenda Garcia Jaramillo 6 Comments

The #1 tourist spot people mention when they talk about Marrakech is Jemma El Fna square. Rightfully so, of course, as it’s the busiest square in North Africa and one of the most famous in the Arab world. It has a rich history with centuries of being the center of life in the Medina for locals and tourists alike. Both day and night the square is vibrant with life and color from all the people passing through, shop owners and clients bartering and exchanging goods, Gnawa musicians performing, to the orange juice stalls and food stalls hustling and bustling. But not everything in the square is so charming. Here are a few things you should be wary of.

Snake Charmers

I’m terrified of snakes so I avoid these guys like the plague but my reason for you to be wary is for a different reason. If you like to pride yourself on being an animal lover or a supporter of PETA, you will stay far away from these guys. A common trick they use to “magically” charm the snakes is to sew their mouths shut so they can’t bite while the charmers play music. After a day or so the snake dies and is replaced by another and the cycle continues. I can respect a person’s attempt to hustle but not at the expense of an animal’s life. Once upon a time the snake charmers may have been real but today the practice has changed a lot.

Henna Ladies

These ladies are often dressed in full niqab (all black outfits with just a space to see the woman’s eyes). This is purposeful as most aren’t licensed to actually work in the square so they cover their faces so the police don’t see who they are. I’ve often heard them offering henna in multiple languages to people walking by. But their most frustrating business tactic is literally grabbing people’s arms and starting to draw on them so they will be forced to pay them for their often times terrible designs at the end. They charge ridiculous rates for henna such as 200 dirham or more for something small on one hand.

If you want to get henna done and be assured that the quality of the henna itself is safe (for example, black henna usually contains gasoline and cause a severe burning reaction) and the design is skillfully drawn, I have two recommendations. The first one is to get your henna done at the Henna Art Café, just a few minute walk from the square in Riad Zitoun Lakadim. You can enjoy lunch for 40 dirhams a plate and get beautiful henna with prices starting at 50 dirham.

My second recommendation is to go to Café Clock in the Kasbah in the evenings. There is often a woman there who does fantastic Saharan style henna (Its use of lines and geometric shapes makes it stand out). If she’s not around you can ask the staff to set up an appointment with her. She often works on demand so she could drop in to do your henna by the time you finish their famous camel burger.

What should you do if you do get tricked into (or grabbed by the henna ladies)? First, don't be caught off guard by their outlandish prices. Offer them 20 dirham for whatever they've done and walk away. They may rant and rave but mention the police if you must and they'll go away. They work on the premise you'll be intimidated or guilted into payment. Hate the design? Wash it off as soon as possible and it won't leave much of a mark at all.

Monkey Guys

Following up from the section above, you'll immediately recognize these guys. They're the ones in the square playing with Barbary monkeys they have chained to a stand or to themselves. The monkeys are often dressed in costumes like soccer jerseys and have diapers on them so they don’t do their business on the street. While these monkeys don’t get their mouths sewn shut, they are still poorly treated and made to take pictures with tourists for money. Please don’t support the practice of stealing Barbary monkeys from the Atlas Mountains so they can be made into slaves in Jemma El Fna. Take a trip to Ouzoud Falls instead and see them in their natural habitat. If you do decide you want a picture, they will request money from you and it can be upwards of 200 dirham. There is no set price for this, but know whatever you pay it will likely go to the guys and a tiny bit left to care for the monkeys.

Food Stall Scams

I have heard of this happening a few times to visitors to Marrakech. When going to eat at the food stalls they choose their order from the menu and then when it's time to pay the bill is higher. If they haven't really paid attention to the price to begin with, they pay the requested amount and walk away. However if you have paid attention the price can be quite a bit more than expected.

Faux Guide Scam

There are countless people working as a fake guides in Marrakech. You will find them in the square quite often offering to take you to see the sights or go shopping. Anyone that is a licensed guide should have an official badge, and you should ask to see it. If they say they forgot it or get offended, say no thank you and leave. Unofficial guides have one goal only – to take you shopping and make as much commission as possible.

Wondering about other scams in Marrakech? Here's a few more we've put together to help;

Marrakech Scams: The Taxi Scam and How to Avoid it

How to Avoid the Tannery Scam in Morocco

10 Mistakes People Make When They Visit Morocco

15 Places to Go for Marrakech Nightlife

10:00 am by Brenda Garcia Jaramillo 14 Comments

I am rarely found in clubs or bars so I asked Brenda to share her tips for where to go out in Marrakech. If you're after clubs, bars or other popular spots for dancing and drinking – she's sharing her favorites! If you're looking for budget Marrakech nightlife options, you likely won't find them, especially where alcohol is involved. Morocco isn't a dry country and there is a heavy duty on alcohol, something to keep in mind as you compare costs.

One of my favorite things about Marrakech is its nightlife. While I can get down with hanging out in Djemma El Fna at night from time to time with friends to eat in one of the food stalls or listen to the Gnawa musicians or watch some of the traditional games being played, sometimes I just want to get dressed up and check out a restaurant, bar, or a good ol’ nightclub.

As a New Yorker, I’ll be honest I compare everything to the New York scene but my time in Marrakech has shown me there are some absolutely amazing places here. So I’m going to list some of the must see clubs, restaurants, and lounges (by neighborhood) you can’t miss while you’re in Marrakech. Some of these places I go to all the time and some are my expat friends’ recommendations:

I live in the Medina and honestly there aren’t many places to be able to enjoy a mixed drink or a bottle of wine. But here are some gems I’ve found so if you’re staying in this part of town and want to out go locally you can check out these places:

Le Salama Restaurant and Lounge

This is actually my favorite restaurant and rooftop lounge in the Djemma El Fna area. The food menu is all Moroccan and though my favorite Moroccan food is made in homes, this place ranks pretty high in my book. Meals range from 150-350 dirhams. The ambiance has a romantic blend of traditional Moroccan riad décor and the look and feel of a jazz bar. On the rooftop you can enjoy hookah and cocktails with their daily “Happy Hour” (which is more like regular prices since the special lasts all night) two for the price of one cocktails. So if you like mixed drinks then you can enjoy 2 strawberry mojitos for 150 dirhams while listening to their local DJ’s music mix and their belly dancer performances.

Dar Anika

This beautiful riad is located in Arset La Maach near the Mellah plaza. It’s a great location for a romantic nightcap or day drinking on their rooftop level. The staff is very friendly and if the owner is around he will pass by checking on his guests to make sure they feel attended to and are enjoying the space.

Kosy Bar

Kosy Bar is on the other side of the Mellah Plaza. It has a great rooftop patio that gives you a fantastic view of the Medina at sunset. It’s a bit pricier than other locations in the area but it’s still a great location for dinner and a bottle of wine.

Le Tanjia

A few doors down from Kosy Bar you can check out Le Tanjia. Beautiful décor and a great rooftop patio another location you enjoy dinner and fantastic views.

Café Clock

This is the Kasbah’s gem of restaurants. It plays a modern twist on traditional Moroccan cuisine like their famous camel burger. While they don’t serve alcohol here that doesn’t stop the place from having a great night scene. They regularly have Gnawa musicians performing and most people even up on their feet dancing and clapping by the end of it. Also they offer traditional Moroccan storytelling in English for visitors to learn more about local culture. Its young, fun, and a total Moroccan hipster’s place to chill.

Now let’s move to the new city, Gueliz, where you can forget you’re in Morocco and feel like you’re in Europe instead. This part of town definitely has a larger variety of bar, clubs, and lounges so if you’re a traveler that prefers to city lights and club hopping this part of town is for you.

Café du Livre

This is my go to spot in Gueliz. It’s the ideal place to start or end your night. It’s a restaurant, bar, and library/bookstore all in one. You can enjoy American comfort foods like buffalo wings and burgers like their Rock n’ Roll burger with draft beers starting at 25 dirham. On Mondays, you can participate in their trivia quiz night which brings in a large international crowd. During the week, they offer happy hour drink specials and on Friday & Saturdays they have live music performances. If you’re a sports fan, they also stream major sporting events.

Mama Afrika

If you want to have some sub-Saharan African flavors you need to come here. The décor is funky and the food is great if you want try something besides local cuisine. The scene is young with local musicians making it one of their favorite hang outs.

L’envers

This place is pretty new in Marrakech but between its well-priced drinks and tapas to the modern art you can purchase off the walls, it’s becoming a fast staple in the nightlife scene.

Pointbar

This lounge has a very French-Moroccan style and is a great location to share some drinks and tapas with friends.

Barometre

Another new location that just opened but also becoming quite popular is Barometre. The location has a dark, smoky feel but the design is modern. The cocktails are on the pricey side but they are generous in their drink sizes. Also, you have to try their burgers!

68 Bar a Vin

If the club is less your thing and you're simply looking for a nice place to have a drink with friends over some good wine this is the place. Wine is by the glass and there is also food available. Smoking is allowed so this might be something you want to be aware of if you're sensitive to smoke.

I saved the most expensive hotel clubs and a casino for last. The very posh neighborhood of Hivernage features some of the most glamorous and elegant hotels in the city.

Theatro

Theatro is a fantastic nightclub that has amazing performances with dancers, acrobats, and more every weekend. I’ve been there to see international and local DJs spin while Gnawa musicians come out on stage to create a crazy remix with their drums. But there is a price tag. Standard entrance is about 225 dirhams and a table with a bottle of your choice starts at 1000 dirham.

Es Saadi Casino & Epicurien

These two I’m going to put together as they are both in the same building next to Theatro which are all part of the Es Saadi Hotel grounds. If you like slots machines and gambling then you can check out the Casino and test your luck. If you prefer to skip the gambling, you can walk straight to the back and find this restaurant-by-day-nightclub-by-night. They have two in-house DJs and a live band that covers old and new hits in their own style.

La Perle Skybar

La Perle is a lovely rooftop bar with views of La Mamounia hotel. They have a live band that plays salsa music accompanied by dancers so if you want to get some Latin flavor in the city, this is the spot to check out.

SO Lounge

The SO Lounge is a part of the Sofitel hotel. They have food service as well as regularly scheduled live music – singers and bands. It is on the expensive end so if you're on a budget perhaps opt for dinner elsewhere and come to party later.

A final bit of advice. Many riads don't offer alcohol but you are welcome to bring your own. You can always pop into a grocery store (like Carrefor) and purchase a bottle of whatever you'd like and enjoy on your riad rooftop. Chances are if they do serve alcohol they won't be too open to you bringing in drinks. Not sure? Just ask!

Marrakech Scams: The Taxi Scam and How to Avoid it

10:00 am by Brenda Garcia Jaramillo 14 Comments

I love living in Marrakech but if I were to name one thing as the bane of my existence here it would be dealing with taxi drivers. If you’re not familiar with how taxi's in Morocco work, there are two types of taxis: petite taxis and grand taxis. Petite taxis can only seat 3 people and they are obligated to charge you based on a metered price. Grand taxis can hold 6 or 8 people depending on the car model and you pay a specific rate for your seat and your taxi leaves only when it’s filled or people pay for the remaining seats. Grand taxis usually go out of the main cities to neighboring villages or specific routes within the city but they won’t take you from the Medina to Gueliz for example. A petite taxi can take you to specific locations within city limits.

That’s how it’s suppose to work. That’s not how every taxi driver works, especially when they see foreigners in Marrakech.

This isn’t unique to Marrakech but this city has a certain “fame”around the country as a huge headache for taxi riders. Now I want to make a disclaimer. Not all taxi drivers in Marrakech try to cheat or scam foreigners. But there are many. Knowing as much as possible beforehand will let you know what to look out for.

The Meter is Broken Scam

Whenever you get into petite taxi you need to ask for the meter (or use the French as its more common “compteur”). With the grand taxis, you should ask for the Mul-Taxi or the man in charge of all the grand taxis in the area. Ask him for the price for your location and the number of seats you need. Usually the biggest lie I hear from taxi drivers here is “The meter doesn’t work” or the seats for a grand taxi being more than 100 dirham per seat (which almost rarely the case).

If you hear that the meter isn’t working and they offer you a fixed rate, don’t take it. It’s illegal for them to charge you without the meter and they’re usually asking for a price way higher than you should be paying. For example, when I worked in an office across town taking the same taxi route every day, I would still get a few drivers who would say, “How much do you pay?” and I would respond, ”What the compteur says.” Eventually when I realized what the average price was for that distance so I wouldn’t even argue if they didn’t put on the meter, I would give them the exact change and leave.

The “No Change” Scam

The next scam goes hand in hand with not using the meter. So let’s say you came to an agreement on a price (or spent 10 minutes arguing for it) and they put on the meter. Yay! But then when you go to pay and you don’t have exact change and use a bigger note…they don’t want to give you proper change! They try to give you less change than what you’re due so they can get closer to the amount they originally wanted. For example, I take a grand taxi that agreed to take me to my village/town for 50 dirham but when I pay with a 100 dirham note the driver tried to only give me 20 or 30 dirham back because they “don’t have change.” How to avoid this? Always have small coins and smaller bills when you plan to take a petite or grand taxi.

The Airport Scam

One of the most common places people are scammed is at the airport. There are both petite and grand taxis operating at the airport. If your hotel or riad offers transportation from the airport – take it. This will save you a big headache. If you need to arrange your own transportation pay attention to the posted price for a taxi. If you are staying in the medina the fixed fare for a petite taxi is 70 dirham. Other destinations have different rates, you should verify with your accommodation ahead of time as they will have the best information about this. DO NOT accept that the price is more than the listed price – it is located right near the taxi stand as well as inside the airport terminal. Take a picture and show them if they continue to badger you. Better yet, ask a police officer for assistance if they continue to price gauge.

The Duck and Run Scam

This last scam isn't one I hear often, but it happened to an Airbnb guest I was hosting just a few nights ago. I couldn’t believe this really happened but now I know it’s a real scam that does happen. My guest was a foreign woman with her pre-teen daughter. They were finishing up dinner not too far away from my place but far enough to warrant a taxi ride at night, especially for them since it was their first night in the city. They stopped a petite taxi, showed him the location of my apartment in the Medina from a Whatsapp pin on her phone, and he agreed to take them. The taxi driver begins to drive and he is very short and rude to them. When they get to their location he rushed them out of the taxi and picked up a female. It turned out to all our dismay that the driver took them in the completely wrong direction, brought them to a restaurant in Gueliz because he was going to pick up a prostitute that was at the location, and wanted to get some extra cash from these unfamiliar tourists.

Thankfully, my guest managed to call me from a kind local’s phone and I asked the individual to help put them in a taxi straight to my place. I couldn’t believe this driver would scam a mother and daughter like that! As well as leaving them in the completely wrong location late at night! So while this is one of the less common scams my advice is if you plan on taking a taxi and you haven’t been in the direction you plan to go, do a quick map search beforehand and look for some landmarks so you know what to expect on the path there. If you don’t have a phone with access to Google Maps then carry a small map with you to confirm you’re going in the right direction.

While this isn’t the behavior of every taxi driver in Marrakech, I hope these examples are helpful enough for you on your next trip or first trip to Marrakech. Remember if you feel you have been cheated or something is not right, involve the police. Ask them to stop or signal for a traffic cop – the driver will usually change his tune or the officer will take care of things. Stay sharp, be on the defensive, and you’ll have an easier time navigating in or out of the city.