Destination Guides

Casablanca on the mind? Here’s what to know!

5:33 pm by Amanda Mouttaki Leave a Comment

Casablanca is always recognized by name for being the setting of the famed film. However, the city often inspires feelings of hesitation, skepticism and a little fear among tourists and Moroccans alike. It has a reputation of being dangerous, stressful, overwhelming in size and confusion. Like most large international cities, it is, of course, some of those things. And yet it is also so much more than that.

Casablanca has been undergoing a change. It moves forward into the future, driven by its citizens, the casawi, who are generally proud of their city and often have an expansive, international worldview. The downtown is in continuous revival, with buildings being renovated, more pedestrian walkways and better lighting at night. There is a very cosmopolitan vibe in this city that is the business and economic capital of Morocco.

View over the city of Casablanca, Morocco

At once rough around the edges and full of flash and glamour, Casablanca is a place of extremes in social culture. There is a very wealthy, western-minded, well traveled Moroccan population in this city, concentrated in the Quartier Californie, just a short cab ride away from a large sprawling shanty town/black market souk, Derb Ghallef.

There are people delivering produce or cleaning up garbage from horse drawn flatbed trailers as brand new BMWs, Ferraris and Mercedes cars cruise by, blasting hip hop music in cacophony with the chebbi music coming out of a nearby bright red (signature Casablanca color) petit taxi. It is at once gritty and graceful.

It is definitely worthy of a solid 24-48 hours visit. Choose some sights or some specific activities you want to try before you arrive and let yourself enjoy this interesting city.

Getting to Casablanca and Getting Around Casablanca

The Mohammed V airport is the main point of arrival for international visitors to Casablanca.. From the airport it is possible to take a train, bus, or a taxi into the city. You could also rent a car from the airport though be prepared, driving in Casablanca is no joke.

Need a transfer from the airport to a city hotel? You can book them online – here’s one to consider.

From the airport you can take the train to the city center. However you will need to make a switch. The airport train runs from the airport to the Casa Oasis station. If you are going to the city you will likely need to disembark at Casa Oasis and switch to a different train. There are only two train platforms making it relatively easy but do be aware.

You may also arrive to Casablanca by train, bus or car from other locations in the country. Almost any trip you take from North to South and back by bus or train will have a connection in Casablanca. The main train station in Casablanca is Casa Voyageurs.

Once in the city, without a car, you have a few options for getting around:

Hailing a petit taxi. These are the red four door compact cars riding around the city. They can only take 3 people at a time and if there is room, they will pick up people who are not traveling with you if everyone is going in the same direction. They have meters and you should ask the driver to use them.

There is also a tram – The Casablanca Tramway which takes you through the city center to the coast for a reasonable 6dhs per person. Its clean and efficient and offers enjoyable views of the city.

When you determine where you want to visit and settle yourself into a neighborhood, it is possible to walk and enjoy the city on foot. The Corniche, the Quartier Ma’arif and several other destinations will offer beautiful walking opportunities. However, walking between neighborhoods can be time consuming, physically tiring and confusing so taxis and the tram are recommended.

Things to do in Casablanca

Walk on the corniche at Ain Diab

You’ll feel like a local as this is one popular “casaoui” activity, strolling up and down the corniche, people watching, taking in the smell of the sea, stopping for mint tea, juices, fresh donuts, little bags of popcorn – or stop for a meal at any of the many seafood restaurants located here

Habous

The new medina of Casablanca – built by French colonial rulers in 1923. It is a charming maze of souks full of artisanal products, textiles, and cafes. It’s fun to shop here and there are some good photo opportunities as well. Wander off the shopping streets to some of the back streets – you will feel like you’re anywhere but Casablanca!

Being in Habous will also position you perfectly to visit one of the best pastry shops in Casablanca, Patisserie Benis Habous It is one of the oldest in the city, with walls covered in brightly colored zelige (Moroccan tiles) and display cases showing off the full range of traditional sweets made with such delicate flavors as almond paste, crushed pistachios, orange flower water and flakey pastry dough. Moroccans take their sweets seriously so think of this stop as a cultural education.

Marche Central

A large food market in the center of Casablanca, it is rich with a variety of fresh local food. Vibrant fruits and vegetables as well as freshly caught fish, along with all the action of the market make great photos.

Visiting the Marche Central is a bold and intimate view of Morocco, seeing all the food that is locally available, experiencing the French colonial architecture of downtown Casablanca. The contrasts, rich colors and varieties show Casablanca’s history, its natural resources – and original roots as an agricultural center, the Berber city of Anfa.

Shop & Cafe Hop in Ma’arif / Gauthier

These two neighborhoods are framed by the Blvds Anfa, Zarktouni and Roudani, marked by the twin towers shopping center. This is where western fashion and large chain stores and brand name boutiques can be found. There are also cheaper local shops and kiosks selling undergarments, socks, make up, and the like.

Also in these neighborhoods, you find a range of cafes from the simpler, older style places full of men and boys drinking mint tea and black coffee, watching soccer matches on a big screen to more lavish looking gourmet ice cream cafes or funky western cafes with gluten free desserts and almond milk lattes.

In the afternoon you can buy fresh seafood, chicken or sometimes even vegetarian briouats, stuffed and deep fried pastry triangles.

Hassan II Mosque

The tallest minaret in the world, and debated to be somewhere between the 3rd-5th largest mosque in the world, this mosque was built by the late King Hassan II from 1986-1993. It can accommodate over 100,000 worshippers assembled for prayers (25,000 inside and 80,000 in the outdoor courtyard).

The mosque has a retractable ceiling and a glass floor so that the ocean is visible through the floor of the prayer room.

It is possible for non Muslims to enter this Mosque with a guided tour. According to the mosque’s website, the tours are available from 9am-4pm 7 days a week. It’s best to contact the mosque to be sure of the exact tour times.

Taste of Casablanca Food Tour or Cooking Class

Taste of Casablanca offers a variety of food related experiences for visitors to Casablanca. From food tours to cooking classes and even a Moroccan tea experience in a Casablanca riad, you’ll have no shortage of options. We like the evening food tour if you’ll be spending the night.

Villa des Arts

A cultural center and art gallery showing contemporary exhibitions in an Art Deco villa from 1934. The villa is owned by the ONA foundations, promoting culture and creativity in Morocco.

Sacre Coeur Cathedral

This cathedral held religious congregations from 1930 to 1956 – just after the end of French colonial rule. Now it is used for cultural events and art exhibitions. Check it out to see what’s happening. The cathedral is undergoing renovations on and off so you may not be able to visit the interior depending on the status.

American Arts and Cultural Center

Opening in Spring/Summer 2020, this multistory arts complex is set to hold an art gallery, a bookstore, a performance theater and spaces for yoga, classes, workshops and trainings. The American Cultural Association is sponsoring this project.

Visiting with Kids? Be sure to check out our Casablanca for Kids guide!

Tours to Consider

Would you rather join a tour or have a guide you show you around the city? That can be arranged! There are regular guided tours of the Hassan II mosque that you can book in advance. If you want to see more of Casablanca beyond that iconic site consider one of these options.

Casablanca City Tour by Van

Casablanca Cultural Walking Tour

Rabat Full Day Tour from Casablanca

Where to Eat in Casablanca

This is by far not an exhaustive list of restaurants in Casablanca. I have attempted to share a few different options for where to eat in Casablanca.

La Sqala

Located at the port on the edges of the old medina, La Sqala is a fortified bastion built in the 19th century that now hosts a restaurant popular for its breakfasts and also serving tajines for lunch and dinner. With lots of outdoor seating where diners are surrounded by colorful tiles, greenery and a fountain, there is a relaxing ambiance. It’s a fantastic location to experience Moroccan cuisine. Midpriced menu

Organic Kitchen

For anyone that is looking for fresh food that is organic/bio and also caters to some specialty diets than look no further. Organic Kitchen offers a restaurant, juice bar, take away and barista to meet whatever needs you have. Breakfast and lunch options include starters, salads, sandwiches, tartines and a wide selection of larger plates. Gluten free, vegan and vegetarian options are available and clearly marked.

Hanna & Jenna Maroc

Situated in the Anfa quarter of Casablanca this small restaurant focuses on local products and a flexitarian menu. There is some meat on the menu but the focus is more plant based.

Ricks Café Casablanca

If you’re into the nostalgia and romance of experiencing the bar from Casablanca the movie, it is worth it to go to Rick’s Cafe. It will be a more touristy scene and the food is ok. There is live music. It is not the site of filming the movie and there is no “original” Rick’s Cafe from the movie – none of the movie was filmed in Morocco.

Bondi Coffee Kitchen

Australian owned coffee shop with gourmet gluten free desserts, avocado toast, smoothie bowls and coconut milk lattes. The crowd at this café is international with a funky, urban Casablanca vibe. You will find regular upper middle class Moroccan people hanging out here, working on their remote freelance projects, making art, taking their lunch breaks from their day jobs, etc.

Camel Souk in Derb Sultan

If you have been wanting to try camel meat, and are up for a serious adventure, ask a taxi driver to take you to the camel butcher in the Derb Sultan neighborhood. This is a very local and traditional neighborhood. The streets are full of people. There is a souk selling vegetables and fruits and other foods and clothing…literally everything you can think of.

In the middle of this, there is a circle of butcher stands, all selling camel meat. (You’ll know because there are camel heads hanging in the shop). You can walk up and order your came meat by weight, ground with cilantro, parsley, salt and cumin. Then you take it across the street to a cafe where they serve strong sweet Moroccan tea, grilled onions and tomatoes and grill your camel meat for you.

Blend Burger

The Casawi (local term for Casablanca residents) are proud of their fast food. Restaurants of all genres are full of diners at all hours of the day and night. Several years ago, a bunch of American style burger joints started popping up around the city. Blend Burger takes a gourmet approach with unusual creations like a camel burger with gouda cheese and a date chutney.

The menu is at western prices, around $10-$15 for a gourmet burger. But this is really the vibe of the whole place. It’s modern and cosmopolitan. The menu is creative. The prices reflect the intention of the restaurant and it’s good.

Patisserie Bennis

In the Habous neighborhood, this is a must visit stop. It began as a patisserie and you’ll still find a wide variety of fantastic cookies and pastries. They also now offer takeaway food from tajine to roast chicken and lots more. If they have bstilla available do yourself a favor and get one – or a dozen. Both the chicken and seafood are fantastic.

Le Gatsby Cafe

This is a new-ish cafe located adjacent from the Hassan II mosque. The inside is large and airy and they have a full food menu (breakfast, lunch and dinner) as well as cafe menu. If you can pop in for their teatime menu for 2.

Night Life in Casablanca

There is a lot of nightlife in Casablanca from upscale and exclusive clubs to dive bars with beaded curtains over the doors and everything in between. Below are two of the most well known locations with good food and interesting entertainment.

La Bodega

A tapas restaurant and bar with live music and salsa dancing. The food here is really good. The music is great. And you can dance. Popular with locals and tourists, La Bodega is a good time.

Le Petit Rocher

Located on the water near the El Hank lighthouse, this is another club with good food, casual atmosphere and live latino music among other genres.

Best Hotels in Casablanca

Casablanca Four Seasons

A fantastic upscale hotel by the sea. It has high class style, spacious rooms, and a luxury spa. The food is outstanding and there are dining areas overlooking the ocean. They also serve afternoon tea for 200 dhs; an opportunity to enjoy the beautiful ambiance without spending the night.

Check Rates and Availability

DownTown Hotel

Perfectly located in the heart of Ma’arif, the popular shopping district, the DownTown Hotel is made up of art deco style apartments. It has a cool energy, lots of space and the price is really reasonable (around 800 dhs/night) for the high standard of the hotel’s cleanliness and design.

Check Rates and Availability

Hotel and Spa Le Doge

This is one of our very favorite hotels in the city. It’s location is a bit out of the way but taxis are easily accessible. The hotel itself is an art deco throwback that is beautifully appointed with a mixture of Moroccan and French influences. It’s worth a trip to Casablanca to stay here!

Check Rates and Availability

Movenpick Casablanca

Located in the Casablanca City Center, the Movenpick has comfortable, large rooms with modern decor. They also have a rooftop pool and dining area that overlooks the city

Check Rates and Availability

ONOMO Hotel Casablanca City Center

In the Racine district this hotel is a comfortable 4 star hotel with a variety of room configurations across their 201 rooms. ONOMO is an African hotel chain with hotels across West Africa bringing together modern technology and affordable business travel amenities. They also strive to highlight African cultures by incorporating visual art from across the continent.

Check Rates and Availability

Culture Tips

If you can read French, check out the culture section of TelQuel Maroc. You will find insider information on local music festivals (genres as diverse as Jazz, African beats and the Saharawi traditional trance music, Gnaoua. You will also find listings for art galleries and other events.

You may notice some beautiful murals covering the sides of high rise buildings. These are the signs of a budding more intentional street art movement and here is a website where you can read up on the latest paintings and find them around the city.

Coming in Spring/Summer 2020, A New Arts and Culture Center in the Gauthier neighborhood of Casablanca. It is right in the center of the new town, not far from the US Embassy.

A Final Note

The real charm of Casablanca lies in the diversity, the vastness of its size and the surprises available therein. The Moroccan residents in Casa represent all walks of life; from the high society set to people who migrated from the countryside to the city in search of work. There are communities of Indian and Asian as well as European and American expats.

Casablanca has an art scene, a large yoga community, local musicians and djs and actors and filmmakers. As a visitor to the city you will not be able to access all of the city’s subtleties. Yet it is worth a try. Unlike any other city in Morocco, this place will stand out in your memory as a contrast to many of the other places you might see during your stay. Take the time to wander around the neighborhoods you visit. Try some street food, Observe the people and allow yourself to see the unexpected.

Special thanks to Erin Wilson of The Flow Yoga Studio Marrakech and long-time Casablanca lover for helping compile this guide!

Visitor’s Guide to Ceuta, Spain

11:34 am by Amanda

Ceuta (Spanish) or Sebta (Arabic) is a Spanish city that is located on the mainland of Morocco. It is approximately 75 kilometers from Tangier, Morocco. The city has a tax free status making it particularly interesting to those in industry who can use it as a base; and it is a large shipping port. It’s also a very busy location for foot traffic as Moroccans who have access to cross carry back goods to be resold in Morocco as anything they can carry is tax free entering Morocco.

An interesting fact is that since 2010 Ceuta and Melilla have declared Eid al Adha a public holiday; the first time a Muslim holiday has been officially celebrated by Spain since the Reconquista.

The population is Spanish speaking however most also speak Darija (the Moroccan Arabic dialect) as well as Berber and French.

Weatherwise Ceuta is a great destination. The temperatures in Ceuta average between 17C and 28C year round with minimal rain. Winter months are colder with more chances for rain.

All About Ceuta

The northern area of Morocco was once part of Spain’s colonial territorial holdings and while much of the territory was returned to Moroccan sovereignty in the mid 20th century the cities of Ceuta and Melilla were not. The city has been out of Moroccan control since the 1400’s changing hands from the Portuguese to the Spanish.

The Rif War is the most recent violent dispute between Morocco and Spain in the region. Berber factions from the Rif area began confronting Spanish workers in the region around 1909 and there followed years of attempts by Spain to pacify the area. From 1920-1927, immediately following the signing of the Treaty of Fez that gave Spain control of the area armed conflict broke out. The conflict only ended once the French also got involved in 1925.

(For more on this war check out the books The Betrothed of Death: The Spanish Foreign Legion During the Rif Rebellion, 1920-1927 and Deadly Embrace: Morocco and the Road to the Spanish Civil War. If you’re more visually inclined the Netflix series Morocco: Love in Time of War happens during this time period.

Morocco has long asserted the city should belong to Morocco and has pushed for its return however this has largely fallen on deaf ears.

The city is regularly featured on the news as many migrants attempting to make it from Morocco but more commonly from other African nations have used Ceuta as a crossing point by scaling the border walls. Morocco and Spain have attempted to crack down on this practice with Moroccan police apprehending those attempting to cross and those who are able to cross effectively stuck in Ceuta until their amnesty or asylum cases are processed.

Ceuta has a long history that has been peppered with conquests and takeovers, making it an interesting location to visit. While it is Spanish it has a different feel from other cities in mainland Spain.

Getting to Ceuta and Getting Around Ceuta

For those visiting or living in Morocco a trip to Ceuta is quite easy to make. From Tangier there are buses and taxis that can take you to Fnideq and the land crossing. There are ferries that run from mainland Spain to Ceuta daily.

Crossing from Morocco to Ceuta in Fnideq

You can cross at this point on foot or via automobile. Whichever route you choose you should be prepared for the process of crossing an international border.

For those crossing by automobile you should be prepared to wait for an extended time at the border. During busy times (especially the beginning and end of the summer holiday season) the wait can be several hours to a full day depending on when you arrive. Keep in mind the city is small so bringing in a vehicle for a short time may not be the best route.

If you have a vehicle with Moroccan license plates, you need to check with your insurance company to get the green visa that lets your car through and remain covered. I have heard mixed reports of needing this so it’s best to check before you go. If you plan to use the ferry to cross to mainland Spain with your vehicle you will for sure need the car visa.

Crossing by foot is considerably faster and easier than by car. You can park your car in Fnideq or take a taxi to the border. From here you simply get in line to go through the immigration point. You will see a lot of Moroccans congregated around the entrance to cross, many if not most of these people are those that cross back and forth the border all day hauling goods. They typically allow you to pass them in line.

You do need to fill out the Moroccan “landing card” the same as you would have encountered at the airport on arrival in the country. They are readily available at the border so if someone tries to “sell” them to you at any point don’t buy. Once you get to the entry line you’ll go to a window box to give the immigration officer your passport and white card (as well as residency card if you’re a Moroccan resident). They rarely ask questions and usually stamp you through.

At this point you’ll walk approximately 300 meters through a corridor that is at least 5 meters tall until you reach the Spanish border. The Spanish immigration police are not seated but standing at the entrances and typically take a quick look at your passport and stamp and let you through. They don’t stamp your passport.

You’re now in Ceuta!

Can Moroccans cross to Ceuta without a Spanish visa?

Yes and no – but in most cases no. Moroccan citizens that live near Ceuta are granted special passes that allow them to cross. Chances are they will know if they are eligible for this pass if they live nearby. In most cases however, Moroccan citizens will need a Spanish visa to enter Ceuta.

**Getting from la frontera (the border) to the city**

Once you’re across you have three options to get to the city center.

Walk. Yes you can walk there but it’s a long walk with mostly direct sun all the way. Unless you’re on a huge budget or like to walk avoid this.
The bus. There is a bus stop just outside the exit point of the Spanish border. It comes fairly regularly and costs €0.80 each way. You do need to have euros on hand as they won’t take Moroccan dirham. If you haven’t planned ahead for this then there are men who stand near this area and will exchange dirham to euro but at a less than great rate. The bus drops off
A taxi. Getting a taxi right at the border are hit or miss depending on how heavy traffic is exiting Spain. A taxi from the border to the city costs approximately €8. If you don’t find one right away begin walking towards the city and chances are you can grab one that’s turning around to head back.

Returning to cross back to Morocco

Both taxi and bus are options to return however taxis are the easiest to find and take back. Don’t be surprised if you end up in a long line once you get to the border. It’s fairly standard for the driver to have you get out well ahead of the crossing if there’s a back up so be prepared to walk some. When hailing a taxi simply tell them “la frontera” and they will return you to the border.

Your documents will not be checked by Spanish authorities when you are leaving however they will be by the Moroccans. As you exit you will need to have another white landing card filled out and presented. You will see many people that walk past the small window that serves as passport control.

The Moroccans that have access and live on the border do not have to show their documents each time however you will need to do this. You must present the landing card and your passport on exit and get a stamp. If you miss this checkpoint there will be a police officer further up that turns you back.

This portion of the crossing can be a lot of walking, so if you have done any shopping while in Ceuta be prepared to carry everything with you for about 1 km.

Entering via the ferry port

There is no bus that runs from the port to the city so you should be prepared to get a taxi. It’s only about a 15 minute walk to reach the city center from the port so a perfectly do-able walk as well.

Getting around Ceuta

There is an internal bus system in the city that is fairly easy to navigate. You also can walk most of the areas, especially in the city center. Finally taxis are readily available and not very expensive to use.

What to do in Ceuta

The Arab Baths of Ceuta

Built between the 12th and 13th centuries as a public bathhouse. The remains have been largely reconstructed however done so as close to their original form as possible.

The Royal Walls of Ceuta

These fortifications were believed to have been started in the 5th century but what is seen today was strengthened and built upon during the Portuguese reign. There is a museum called Museo de los Muralles Reales that houses temporary art exhibitions.

Museo de Ceuta

This free museum tells the story of Ceuta through history and archeology. The museum is only a few rooms but holds many artifacts dating from Roman times through the Rif war. It also regularly holds temporary exhibits.

Churches at the Plaza Africa

The plaza itself is rather uninspiring but there are two churches located on the plaza. The Cathedral and the Church of Our Lady of Africa. Both stand on sites that were once mosques. Both are open to the public at various times of the day.

House of Dragons

This building was completed in 1905 and might be one of the most recognizable buildings in Ceuta due to the bronze dragons that flank the exterior. It is known as a great example of eclectic architecture. The original dragons were removed in 1925 and lost and it wasn’t until 2006 that new dragons were installed.

Hercules Statue

On the seafront of Ceuta this massive sculpture represents Hercules straddling the Straits of Gibralter.

Mercado Central

Just as in all Spanish cities the central market is an important part of daily life. The market opens at 8am and shuts down by 3pm so it’s best to visit in the morning. This is a great video (in Spanish) about the market, even if you don’t understand Spanish the imagery is great.

Beaches in Ceuta

There are several beaches that can be found in Ceuta. Along the southern bay of Ceuta is the La Ribera Beach and El Chorrillo Beach both are located near the city center and are blue flag certified beaches for quality and safety. Benzu Beach and Calamocarro beach are in the northern bay and have cooler water and rougher gravel beaches. Benitez beach is popular with people that live nearby and has a mix of sand and pebbles.

If you’d rather not hit the beach but want a pool day the Mediterranean Maritime Park located close to the port is a good option. It has salt water pools, green spaces, restaurants, a casino, night club and more. Entry price varies depending on season but is approximate €5 per person.

Shopping in Ceuta

Shopping is one of the big reasons people visit Ceuta, especially coming from Morocco. Ceuta is a duty free zone! While mainland Spain has a 21% VAT on goods in Ceuta VAT does not apply and instead their local tax is only 5-10% depending on the product.

Through the downtown area Calle Camoens Street is a pedestrian street with brand name stores of all types. You’ll also find stores like Spanish department store giant El Corte Ingles and Carrefour in Ceuta.

Eating in Ceuta

There are quite a few restaurants in Ceuta, mostly mom and pop type places which is fantastic. You’ll find both Spanish and Moroccan restaurants and those that are a bit of both. I’ve never been disappointed with food but have yet to have a really stand out experience. Below are a few places that we’ve tried and liked.

Your best bet in Ceuta is to order seafood, it’s what they specialize in. We also always order mosto which is a great Analusian drink if you don’t drink alcohol – it’s essentially grape juice but the taste is wonderful and a treat as usually you can only find it in mainland Spain.

Restaurant Parador – The restaurant itself is slightly dated but the food is basic and ok. It’s not out of this world but especially if you’re traveling with children we found it to be an “easy” meal to take in.

Pasteleria La Africana – Not a restaurant but a bakery that has a selection of Spanish bakery items. Try the little doughnuts (usually on the top counter) that are studded with ane.

El Bistro de George – Spanish and Mediterranean flavors for a little more upscale dining experience. The owner also speaks English if you’re worried about ordering in Spanish at other places.

El Pescador – If you want a good meal with great views this is the place to consider. They serve plenty of seafood as well as tapas. Perfect for either lunch, snacks or dinner.

Where to Stay in Ceuta

Most anywhere you book in Ceuta will be relatively close to where you want to be. Here are a few suggestions if you’re planning to spend the night.

Hotel Ulises

Located close to Ribera Beach and has an outdoor swimming pool if you’d rather not hit the waves. The rooms are also a good size and include air conditioning. A typical Spanish breakfast is provided with plenty of restaurants and other shopping nearby.

Hostal Plaza Ruiz

Close to the bus stop for buses coming from the border, this is a basic hotel that is clean and will fit the bill for travelers on a budget that want to stay over in Ceuta.

Hercules Boutique Hotel

This boutique hotel is beautifully decorated and well situated. If you’ll be bringing a vehicle there is nearby public parking. There are two beaches nearby and some rooms have a water view. Plus free drinks and snacks in the room!

Airbnb

There are quite a few listings on Airbnb too which is not a bad option in a small area like Ceuta.

Related Destination Guides:

If you’re planning to be near Ceuta than you can easily visit Tetouan and Tangier – both of which are within easy driving distance.

Tangier Destination Guide

Tetouan Destination Guide

Planning a Trip to Oualidia, Morocco

3:10 pm by Amanda Mouttaki

Nestled on the Atlantic Coast between Al Jadida and Casablanca, Oualidia is a cozy little fishing town, famous for its seafood and in particular, its oysters. This small village was off the map for many years due to its somewhat isolated location. Today many people both Moroccan and tourists enjoy visiting year-round, but especially in summer due to the beautiful oceanfront.

The first “royal beach” came to be in Oualidia in the 1940’s when King Mohamed V built a palace and dubbed it so. It’s long been abandoned but many people, especially of the elite class followed the king’s lead. Today it’s best known for oysters but they really weren’t on the radar until the 1950’s when Japanese oysters were used and French techniques applied. It’s since grown into quite an industry.

While summer is the most popular time of year to visit Oualidia it’s beautiful year round. We visited in November and the weather was still lovely, though perhaps a little too cold if ocean swimming is on your radar.

Getting to Oualidia

Oualidia is between the cities of Safi and El Jadida. It is approximately two hours driving from Casablanca and three hours driving from Marrakech. The roads to Oualidia are small two lane roads though partial access exists from the larger toll roads.

Using Public Transportation to Reach Oualidia

There are limited public transportation options available to reach Oualidia.

Trains

No train lines run to Oualidia directly but you can take the train from Casablanca to El Jadida and then transfer to the CTM bus from El Jadida to Oualidia. This route is available once a day.

Buses
The CTM bus line runs from Casablanca to Oualidia once a day and costs 85dh. You also can travel from El Jadida to Oualidia and Essaouira to Oualidia as options. From Marrakech you can reach any of these three destinations and continue on to Oualidia.

Taxi

Grand taxis are available from most cities to reach Oualidia, however the closer your starting point to the two-lane the easier it will be to find a ride. A shared grand taxi is the least expensive option however you will need to wait until the taxi fills up which can be a long time. It’s also possible to hire the driver and the full car to take you.

Driver

A private driver might be the best option if you don’t want to rent a car (or have access to a car) and don’t want to drive yourself. Most hotels and riads can help you arrange a driver for forward transfer. This can be done either with a 4×4 or van OR they also can arrange a private taxi. The price should be discussed and agreed upon before departure.

Getting around Oualidia

The city is small two-lane so it’s possible to walk most places. You can also rent a bike or use the petit taxis to get around the city. If you want to go further afield then you’ll need to grab a grand taxi.

What to do in Oualidia

You don’t come to Oualidia to do things – you come here to relax! If you’re after an active holiday two-lane point to this might not be the best stop for you. But if you want to chill out you couldn’t have found a better spot.

Weekly Market

If you’re in Oualidia on the weekend then it’s really worth a trip into town to visit the weekly souk (market). You can’t miss it. This is where Moroccans from the village and surrounding areas come to do their weekly shopping. You can wander the stalls selling produce and home goods as well as any and everything else you can imagine. It also has a section where you can find people eating lunch with lots of seafood of course! If you’re adventurous it’s worth having a meal here.

Surfing and windsurfing

The main area of Oualidia near the city is largely a calm lagoon but if you go a little further afield you will find plenty of surfing and windsurfing.

Birdwatching

In the spring and autumn are the best times to do birdwatching in Oualidia. This is when the migrations happen from Europe to Africa. Birds like flamingos, ergets and storks are just some of the flying creatures you can observe.

Boat Rentals

Boats, kayaks and canoes are available to rent from agencies in town and near the water. The smaller crafts you can take out on your own. If you’d rather a chartered boat for fishing or simply a boat ride these are also available. Rumor is between August and October it’s possible to do some whale watching off the coast.

Eating in Oualidia

Seafood, seafood, seafood

This is what Oualidia is known for and why many people come to visit. So it’s no surprise that there is a lot of seafood on menus! The city is known for their oyster farms (though personally I think the ones in Dakhla are better) but all types of fish and seafood are available.

L’Araignee Gourmande – A very popular restaurant for seafood you can get a wide variety of seafood at a reasonable rate. They have an extensive menu but make sure to ask for any daily specials depending on what seafood is fresh that day.

Ostrea II – If you’re coming to Oualidia for their signature oysters this is where you should go. They do a variety of seafood but oysters are their signature. Keep in mind you can’t have oysters year round so double check if this is important to you.

La Plage (at La Sultana) – For a special meal head to La Plage. In addition to fresh caught seafood and fish, the hotel also has its own organic garden where the vegetables are sourced personally two. Dress up and enjoy a sit down gourmet meal – make sure to make reservations ahead of time.

Where to Stay in Oualidia

Hotel l’Hippocampe

This wonderful family-friendly hotel is possibly one of the best-kept secrets in Morocco! The Ilane Family has proudly run the Hippocampe (meaning ‘seahorse’, in French), for over 30 years. Recently under new (still family!) management by Irina and Neil Illane, this gem of a spot has a gorgeous garden, friendly staff, and a warm feel that welcomes families of all ages.

The hotel also offers an array of fun outdoor beach activities such as kayaking, surfing, and more. The hotel pool sits over the beautiful sheltered cove, a UNESCO recognized site. The lovely hotel restaurant, specializing in fresh seafood, is also open for lunch and dinner if you are passing through town.

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La Sultana

One of the most luxurious hotels in Oualidia this is where you want to go if you want to be spoiled. The 5 star property has every amenity you could want with fantastic service. Their gorgeous pool overlooks the lagoon; truly the ultimate place to relax. Book in advance, rooms here usually fill up quickly especially in the summer season.

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Maison de la Lagune

This is a self-catering apartment is simple but just a short walk to the lagoon. You will want to have a vehicle if you’re staying here to access areas nearby. You have a kitchenette at your disposal if you’d prefer to cook yourself. If you’re looking for an affordable option in Oualidia this is a good choice.

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El Manzar

Find this small guest house in the kasbah of Oualidia. The beachfront destination promises great views along with a restaurant or shared kitchen if you prefer to cook for yourself. Free WIFI and breakfast are included with the rate. There are also plenty of outdoor seating areas for when you want to soak up the sun or enjoy an evening drink.

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Azalai Beach Cottage

If you truly are looking for a secluded getaway this is where you want to be; but you will need a vehicle to access it. It’s one of my favorite stays in all of Morocco. Choose from rooms in the main house or detached bungalows; it’s ideal for couples or families traveling. Enjoy walks along the Atlantic cliffs or relax by their pool. To top it off their food is fantastic. We took both breakfast and dinner at their onsite restaurant – it’s a set menu so you do need to let them know ahead if you have allergies and if you’ll be dining in.

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Still looking? Try one of these deals:

Trips and Tours

Book a day trip from Marrakech to Safi and Oualidia

Two Day trip from Marrakech to Oualidia with an overnight

This tour includes an overnight in a comfortable hotel. If you’re not picky about where you stay and want to make this trip from Marrakech it’s a good option.

Additional Destination Guides

Beaches of Morocco

Safi

The Ultimate Cheat Sheet on Travel to Tangier, Morocco

10:00 am by Amanda 5 Comments

The busy port city of Tangier, Morocco is located at the western entrance to the Strait of Gibraltar. This historical city has a rich history and a truly multi-cultural vibe. It’s a bustling city that can be a little rough around the edges at times. If you are spending time there as a tourist, it is good to be aware of your surroundings. But that edginess is also one of its charms, giving Tangier a vibrant “real-ness” that you don’t always find in a place so popular with tourists and travelers.

Is Tangier worth visiting? If you’re nearby than certainly it’s well worth a visit as it has a distinctly unique feel you won’t find elsewhere in Morocco. However, if you won’t be near the city it probably isn’t worth traveling to see.

If you’re wondering how many days in Tangier you should plan consider what you may want to do. Will you use it as a base to explore surrounding areas like Asilah, Tetouan, and Chefchaouan or will your journey go onwards? One to two days is typically enough time to see the sights of the city.

Even though Tangier has a less than rosy history, things have changed in recent years. Wondering if Tangier is safe to visit? It’s no less safe than any other city in the country – or region for that matter. Moroccan police have increased security forces throughout the country in light of world events and much has been done in recent years to clean up Tangier and her image. You may encounter hassles from vendors but when it comes to crime, pickpocketing and petty theft are typically the most serious infractions seen.

In order to make the most of your Tangier experience, I offer you this helpful guide!

ALL ABOUT TANGIER

The history of Tangier begins before the 5th century BC with native Amazigh (Berber) tribes and Phonecian traders making landfall to trade. It has gone, and continues to go by many names; Tanja, Tingi, Tingis, Tanger and Tangiers. Tingis is said to be derived from Tingis, the daughter of Atlas in Greek mythology. It’s more likely however the word comes from the Semitic word tigisis, or harbor. Sometimes the city is referred to as Boughaz, “the bride of the north” by the Moroccans or “the door of Africa” for its strategic position.

Berber tribes have lived in the area for centuries but the Carthaginians were the first outsiders to settle and colonize the area. The Romans and Byzantinians later controlled the area for various periods of time. It wasn’t until the year 702 that Tangier came under the rule of the Muslims. During the fervor of European expansion and colonization the city fell to the Portuguese and was ruled from 1471-1662 by them. For a brief window it also was held by the British having been given as a gift to the king in exchange for his daughters’ hand in marriage.

After the United States gained independence – Morocco was the first country to recognize their independence – they built the first US consulate in Tangier. In 1821, the Legation Building in Tangier became the first piece of property acquired abroad by the new country. It was a gift from Sultan Moulay Suliman.

At the beginning of the 20th century Tangier was already quite the multicultural city. An estimated 40,000 people lived in the city; 20,000 Muslims, 10,000 Jews and 9,000 (mostly Spanish) Europeans. While much of the country was partitioned beginning in 1912 between the French and Spanish, Tangier was a bit of a different story. In 1923 it became an international zone governed by the French, Spanish and British.

World War Two was a very interesting time in Tangier. Due to its international status and the varied positions of the occupying countries. Spies, businessmen, writers, artists, intellectuals and all sorts of people showed up on the shores of Tangier for its mix of opportunity and live and let live policy found in few other places at the time. Tangier still has this allure however in 1956 it like the rest of Morocco became an independent nation. Rumor is spies still used it as an outpost during the Cold War.

GETTING TO TANGIER

Flying to Tangier

The Tangier airport (Ibn Battouta) handles over 1 million passengers a year. International flights arrive from Europe via airlines such as Ryanair, Air Arabia, Iberia, and TUI. Many major cities in Europe service Tangier including Paris, Brussels, Madrid and Amsterdam as well as smaller cities. Domestic flights also are frequent from cities such as Casablanca, Marrakech, and Ouarzazate.

Ferry to Tangier

One of the most popular ways to reach Tangier is by ferry. FRS ferries cross from Tarifa to Tangier and the fast crossing takes just over 30 minutes. Another route is from Algeciras to Tanger Med and is available on FRS or Acciona Transmediterrea. This crossing takes 70 minutes and the port is 30 km from the city of Tangier. Once weekly ferry service is available from Gibraltar to Tangier Med which departs Gibraltar on Friday evening and Tangier Med on Monday evening. This route takes 80 minutes.

To cross you can prebook tickets online through sites like Direct Ferries or buy in the port before traveling. During high season it is advisable to book early to ensure space at the time you would like to cross.

Check Ferry Rates

Train to Tangier

Tangier is the first (or last) stop on the train line. Many travelers use the train to reach destinations further south in Morocco. One of the most popular routes is the overnight Tangier to Marrakech train. You can book a 4 person room with a bunk (either mixed or female only). You also can reserve just a seat in either first or second class. Be aware in second class there are no limits on ticket sold so you may be standing or squished. In first class every seat is assigned.

Bus to Tangier

There are two main types of buses that operate in Morocco; “public” buses and private buses. Public buses are generally used by locals going from place to place in more remote areas not covered by train service. Private buses, namely CTM and Supratour also go to some of those locations but are quite a bit nicer. You have the option to use either though navigating the public bus system will be very difficult if you don’t speak French or Arabic.

Supratour and CTM have bus depot’s in most cities however, they often don’t run between destinations that have train service. So if you want to take a bus from Marrakech to Tangier you may have difficulty finding one. However, if you’re trying to get from Chefchaouan to Tangier it’s the way to go. Make sure to check timetables ahead of time as in some cases there is only one or two buses a day.

Driving to Tangier

Several Moroccan highways (and smaller non-toll roads) come to a head in Tangier. The N1 that runs north to south, the N2 and N16 are the three major highways. It’s very easy to reach Tangier by car though parking in and driving in the city can be more of a headache.

THINGS TO DO IN TANGIER

I’ve compiled a list of ten ideas for things to do when visiting Tangier. Many of these are fun options, even if you are only in town for one day. And if you’re visiting for longer, you’ll have ideas to keep you busy for days!

The Top 10 Things to do in Tangier, Morocco

Cap Spartel and the Caves of Hercules

One of the most popular locations just outside of Tangier is the beautiful Cap Spartel and the Caves of Hercules. Located just nine miles outside of Tangier, Cap Spartel sits at the entrance to the Strait of Gibraltar, about 1000 feet above sea level.

The Caves of Hercules are located below the cape. The history of the beautiful caves is rich with intrigue. At one point, the caves were mined, which expanded them beyond their original size. There are signs that the caves were occupied in Neolithic times, and according to mythology, the Roman God Hercules once slept here. No matter what you believe, their beauty is well-worth the trip to see them!

Tangier Kasbah

One of the must-see locations in Tangier is the Kasbah. The old walled city is the quintessential Tangier experience, with meandering walkways leading from area to another. It is quite easy to get lost in the Kasbah, but getting lost is truly half the fun. There are so many amazing discoveries to be made, for one thing. You never know when you might turn the corner and find some incredible food that you’ll be dreaming about for years to come. Turn another corner and find the perfect bag or rug that you simply have to take back to your home. Keep heading uphill until you reach the top of the Medina where you will see gorgeous views of the city and the land and ocean all around. And if you want to see the Kasbah but fear getting lost, there are always tours available so you won’t have to miss out on this wonderful experience!

Tangier Medina Souks

The medina is a place where people live and work and it’s also worth a wander to experience daily Tangerine life. You should expect to find some hustlers but typically they mean no harm, they’re just trying to make a living. You’ll find a wide variety of goods for sale; from handcrafted Moroccan artisan ware to imports from around the world. One of the items you should keep a look out for are the red and white striped towels that local women sell. Also for sale are the wide-brimmed pom pom hats! If food is more your thing look for vendors selling kalinte, a chickpea type pancake that is great warm with some salt and cumin dusted on top.

American Legation

Did you know that Morocco was the first country to recognize the United States as a brand new country? They even signed a treaty together – the 1786 Moroccan-American Treaty of Friendship. And the American Legation is the first piece of American property to exist outside of the united states. The beautiful building is created in the Moorish-style stucco. It was presented to the United States by Sultan Moulay Sulliman in 1821 and was home to the United States Legation and Consulate for 140 years. It fell into disrepair at one point, but today it is home to the Tangier American Legation Institute for Moroccan Studies and is also a popular tourist stop.

Cape Malabata

Cape Malabata is a beautiful cape located six miles east of Tangier. In addition to amazing views across the Strait of Gibraltar, the location features a lovely lighthouse. There is also a medieval-style castle which was built in the early 20th century. If you love lighthouses and a stunning view with great picture-taking potential, Cape Malabata is worth a visit.

Church of Saint Andrew

The Church of Saint Andrew is a lovely Anglican church built on land that was donated to the British community in 1880 by Hassan 1 of Morocco. It was completed in 1890 and consecrated in 1905, the architectural style of this beautiful building is Moorish. The interior is decorated in high Fassi style and behind the altar is an area carved with quotes from the Quran, showing the direction of Mecca. Be sure to visit the graveyard where you will find the graves of a number of people from history – bankers, military people, and the British writer Walter Harris.

Fondation Lorin

One really interesting place to stop is the Fondation Lorin. This art museum is housed in one of the oldest synagogues in the city. The museum is devoted to Jewish heritage and features posters, photographs and other items of historical importance from Tangier since the 1930s. You will get a true sense of history as you look through these incredible exhibits and pieces of art found in this lovely museum. Truly, the atmosphere alone is worth the visit.

Medina Art Gallery

This modern art gallery is one of the most famous in Tangier. It opened in 1999 and has housed works by many well-known artists, such as Antonio Fuentes and Omar Mahfoudi. They are always on the lookout for new talented artists, so even if this isn’t your first visit to this Tangier Art Gallery, it is a great place to visit, again and again!

Museum of Moroccan Art

Another must-see for art lovers exploring the Tangier Medina – the Museum of Moroccan Art. Housed in a former Governor’s Palace which was built in the 17th Century, this beautiful place sweeps you back in time as you explore the incredible works of art. This place really is a feast for the eyes – from the colorful marble and glass mosaics to the art pieces like paintings and glazed earthware. You might want to allow extra time to thoroughly enjoy this wonderful place.

TanJazz Festival

Since 2000, the city of Tangier has hosted an amazing international jazz festival in September. Called Tanjazz, it is well worth a visit if you love music and have been dreaming of an early Autumn vacation in Morocco. Held on the grounds of a beautiful Italian Palace, the gardens and fountains provide a charming environment in which to enjoy the music and rich culturally-diverse atmosphere. This festival is wildly popular and fills to capacity every year. So, if it is on your bucket list, be sure you book your visit in advance!

WHERE TO EAT IN TANGIER

There are no shortage of restaurants in Tangier. There seems to be a place to eat around every corner. If you are seriously hungry, look for a place that the locals are. Due to it’s location on the water it’s no surprise that what to eat in Tangier is fish and seafood. There are of course other options but this is what will be truly local. That way, you’re likely to find something authentic and delicious.

If you prefer to be at least somewhat prepared for where to seek out an amazing dining experience, you might want to keep the following suggestions in mind.

Cafe Hafa

The iconic Cafe Hafa sits on a cliff overlooking the boy. Known for delicious mint tea, it is even more famous as a place where many singers and writers of the early 20th century have spent time. The Beatles and the Rolling Stones are known to have visited, as well as writer William S. Burroughs (among many others.) Although the Cafe Hafa serves decent food (of course), but visitors mostly come for the history and atmosphere. From the 1920’s style decor to the breathtaking views to the general sense of awe at knowing who else has eaten there, the Cafe Hafa is a popular tourist stop. It is recommended that you show up early if you want to make sure you have a place to sit.

Le Saveur Du Poisson

If you love fish and seafood, you should definitely find your way to this wonderful place. The popular restaurant is well-known, so you may have to wait for a table, but you will be treated to a feast that is well worth the wait. There is no menu here – you simply sit back in the homey and relaxed environment and enjoy the meal that the chef has prepared that day. The meal is not only delicious, it is a complete experience – from appetizers to dessert to the fresh homemade juice cocktail. Be sure to bring an appetite!

Ch’Hiwat L’Couple

This popular restaurant features Moroccan and Meditteranean cuisine. Known for amazing traditional food at great prices, the Ch’Hiwat L’Couple offers everything from soup and sandwiches to couscous and tagines. Lots of locals bring their families to eat here, which tells you all you need to know about the quality and authenticity of the food they serve. If you are looking for a restaurant to make you feel right at home, you’ve found it!

Restaurant Al Maimouni

The Restaurant Al Maimouni is as known for its atmosphere as for the delicious food. Eat inside or enjoy a meal on the rooftop terrace instead. The menu has many great options for both meat eaters and vegetarians, and the food is fresh and authentic. This lovely place is located in a historic neighborhood of the Medina, in the heart of the city and is open and ready to feed you until midnight every day!

Le Cappuccino

The lovely Le Cappuccino is a contemporary cafe that is really popular with tourists, especially during the day. When you have a chance to try their delicious coffee, sandwiches, and amazing muffins and pastries, you will know why. The casual atmosphere is a great place to relax with your family or friends, too. You might need to be patient with service if you stop by when they are busy, but the coffee and treats are well worth the wait!

WHERE TO STAY IN TANGIER

Atlas Rif & Spa

The Atlas Rif & Spa is located just a short walk from the coast. The spacious and comfortable guest rooms are private and have all the modern conveniences. You’ll also find an on-site pool, spa, fitness center, garden, and a restaurant selling traditional Moroccan cuisine as well as other delicious offerings. They have free Wi-Fi available in the public areas of the grounds, and they also offer a lounge where guests can relax with a cocktail. Satellite TV and air conditioning are available in all the rooms and suites, too, making it a comfortable place to relax indoors for a day if you decide you need a break from seeing the sights.

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Mnar Castle

The Mnar Castle Apartment hotel is one of the most highly rated hotels in Tangier, and pride themselves on making their guests feel at home in every way they can. This lovely hotel is located ten minutes from the center of the city and offers luxurious apartments at surprisingly reasonable prices. Enjoy a pool, gorgeous gardens, roomy accommodations, and delicious food in the on-site restaurant. Be sure to book in advance to score the best room rate you can.

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Dar Tanja

Dar Tanja is a cut-above in every way. This gorgeous guesthouse is luxurious and comfortable, offering the perfect combination of the modern and the traditional. The warm atmosphere is rich and comfortable, inviting you to find a nice place to just sit and relax with a good book for a while. If you prefer to be outdoors, there is a lovely garden to enjoy and amazing views of the Strait, as well.

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Kenzi Solazur

If you are looking for clean and comfortable accommodations with all the modern conveniences at a reasonable price, the Kenzi Solazur is worth a look. Located a minute from the beach and overlooking the Strait of Gibraltar, this beautiful hotel features contemporary-style rooms and suites with all the modern amenities. Spend time in the outdoor pool, lounge in front of the satellite TV in your room, or hang out in the on-site nightclub and enjoy a drink. But if you are looking to get out and see the sights, the Kenzi Solazur is in the heart of Tangier, within easy distance of just about everything. And when you get hungry, you have the choice of three different on-site restaurants, with one serving delicious, traditional Moroccan cuisine.

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TRIPS, TOURS, AND ACTIVITIES

Tangier Shore Excursion: City Tour of Tangier

It can be a bit intimidating to visit a new place, especially when it is a city as large and busy as Tangier. If you’d like to see the sites with the help of a tour guide, this full-day sightseeing tour might be just what you’re looking for. Not only will you enjoy the city, Kasbah, and Medina while guided around by an English-speaking tour guide, you’ll also get the chance to visit many of the historical and geographical landmarks in the area. And your transportation is an air-conditioned minivan – a welcome escape on a hot day!

Book this tour

Tangier Cooking Lesson

For a different kind of “tour” and an amazing hands-on experience, consider booking a Cooking Lesson while you’re visiting Tangier. You’ll learn some delicious ways to prepare traditional Moroccan cuisine while also getting to eat some of the best food you’ve ever imagined. Best of all, after enjoying your amazing experience, you can take your newfound skills back home to share some amazing homecooked Moroccan cuisine with everyone that you love. That’s one of the best ways to make your vacation memories last forever!

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Tangier to Chefchaouen Private Transfer

If you are spending several days in Tangier and can spare the time, consider making a day trip to Chefchaouen. This beautiful village in the Rif Mountains is known for being charming and picturesque, and if you have the time, it is well-worth seeing. If you aren’t comfortable going alone, there are great tours available.

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Private Guided Day Tour of Tangier

Heading to Tangier but not on a cruise? This tour will take you to see the major sites of the city along with a guide who can explain the history and culture of the city in detail. The tour is also private so you’ll be guaranteed that only your small group will be on the tour leaving you the ability to pick and choose what you do and see.

Book this tour

RELATED DESTINATION GUIDES

Tetouan, Morocco is for Art Lovers

Why Asilah, Morocco should be on your Northern Morocco Itinerary

The Ultimate Cheat Sheet for Tangier Morocco

Tafraoute: for Nature Lovers and Adventure Seekers!

10:00 am by guest poster 1 Comment

Take in Tafraoute on an Anti-Atlas circuit including Taroudant and perhaps Tiznit, or on a trip inland from Agadir on the Atlantic Coast. There is plenty to see in the area for a full day’s sightseeing (transport is pretty much essential), but the best thing about Tafraoute is that it is surrounded by such diverse landscapes enabling the visitor to uncover heaps of Amazigh (Berber) history and culture. The roads to and from Taroudant feature old granaries, hilltop Kasbahs, abandoned villages and verdant palm oases.

What not to miss

Tafraoute is the perfect base for climbers, hikers and those interested in exploring Berber culture in the surrounding hills. Although guidebooks generally mention the town’s key sights (see below), the real beauty of Tafraoute is the drive to and from the town. Road R105 runs over the tail end of the Anti Atlas mountains from Agadir to Tafraoute through the village of Ait Baha. On the way, stop off at Kasbah Tizourgane which has been lovingly restored by returning members of the original tribe which built it. You can even sleep there!

On other hill tops along the way, spot crumbling adobe granaries (used to store grain and valuables in turbulent times) and villages. The road to Ait Mansour, which runs southeast out of Tafraoute is also well worth a detour. Rising away from Tafraoute over rugged inclines dotted with sheep, it eventually descends into a shady palm oasis fed by a babbling river, where roadside cafes and shops provide a chilled drink under the trees for passing travellers. This is the long way round to Tiznit (over the dramatic Col de Kerdaous – avoid the hotel here) but it’s worth it!

What else to see and do

The other sights of Tafraoute are well-documented and are mainly based in the local rocks. The so-called gazelle rock carving a mile south of town, the painted rocks (painted by a Belgian artist in the 1980s) and the Napoleon’s hat collection of boulders on the way out of town towards Aguerd Oudad are worth remarking in passing, but nothing much to write home about. Much more worthwhile is the Maison Traditionelle in the Ammeln Valley, a house preserved to demonstrate village life in the days before most of the men left to seek work in big cities such as Casablanca, Tangiers, Marseilles and Brussels. Descendents of the original owners have restored the house and a guest house next door and offer an informative and entertaining glimpse of life in a Soussi village.

Where to stay

It is unlikely you’ll be visiting this area without transport, and there are two accommodation options slightly out of town which far outshine those in the town centre.

Auberge Kasbah Chez Amaliya sits under the mountains of the Ammeln Valley and offers suites around a large pool as well as a popular restaurant. The Dutch owner, Liesbeth, is a mine of useful tips and information on the local area.

El Malara is a French-owned property, built in a modern country house style with a pool with nine rooms, including what they call the sheepfold – a small space incorporating 6 beds ideal for a group or family.

Accueil

Where to eat

Despite the abundant local produce, Tafraoute is no culinary capital. Other than eating at your hotel, a solid option is La Kasbah on the Route Imiane (R107) which heads out of town towards the painted rocks. The menu mirrors those of tourists restaurants up and down the country, but the quality is good, the prices are reasonable and beer and wine are served. Popular with backpackers, bikers and hikers, there are always plenty of people to share travellers’ tales and tips with.

What to bring back

Tafraoute is known for colourful embroidered babouche slippers – the patterns indicate the wearer’s marital status. Market day is Wednesday, an opportunity both to pick up souvenirs and see locals buying and selling essential provisions.

Although the town of Tafraoute won’t occupy much more than a day of sightseeing, it is a great base from which to explore the surrounding area and learn more about the Soussi way of life. Often combined on a road trip with its near neighbour Taroudant, Tafraoute is a more modest town offering fewer urban activities and instead plenty of opportunity to explore the peaks and valleys of the Anti Atlas region.

A Complete Guide to Visiting Imlil, Morocco

8:31 am by Amanda Mouttaki 1 Comment

Generally tourists come across the name of the small village of Imlil when they are hikers and plan to climb Jebel Toubkal (4160 m) – Morocco’s and the North Africa’s highest mountain. But, you don’t have to be crazy fit and determined to walk for miles in order to have fun in Imlil!

ALL ABOUT IMLIL

Just the journey to Imlil can take your breath away. The road is twisted and interesting, much less frequented then other Atlas mountains’ valleys in the Marrakech area. A glimpse of the small berber villages, the lazy river and the walnut tree leaves shining in the sunlight will be the beginning of your trip.

This mountain village is often the starting out point for people who are climbing to the top of Mount Toubkal. It’s also an excellent base if you simply want to enjoy hiking in the region.

GETTING TO IMLIL

There are regular drivers that can take you from Marrakech to Imlil via private transfer. The rate will vary depending on if you want a one-way transfer or the use of the car for the day.

If you’re on a budget the best way of getting there is to take a grand taxi (shared cab) from Marrakech. It is only about 3$ for a seat and a great, authentic experience.

WHAT TO DO IN IMLIL

If you would like to actually climb Jebel Toubkal there are few things you have to know. Don’t get fooled by all the travel guide books describing the climb as an easy one! It is not! But it is doable and very interesting! The nature, the landscape, the people. On the way to the top of the mount there is a holy place called Sidi Chamharouch where one of the local Muslim saints is buried. Moroccan families choose the place as their pilgrimage destination. It can be a very profound and positive experience to interact with the pilgrims who are very often climbing wearing flip-flops!

The best thing to do is to have a mountain guide who will take care of your food supplies, accommodation/refuge booking, mules etc. If you decide to stay at Lahcen’s guesthouse (see where to stay), he is also a licensed mountain guide who can make your trek really memorable for a very reasonable price (around 45-55$ per day per person, food, transport from Marrakech, guide services, accommodation included).

If you decide to organize the trek by yourself, during the high season (May-September) you should contact the refuge to make sure to have a place to sleep ([email protected]). The path is not very well indicated, but if you climb during the summer you can be sure that you won’t get lost as there is a lot of hikers. It is NEVER advisable to hike alone in Morocco. You should ALWAYS take a guide with you as conditions can very quickly change.

The first part of the hike is a long climb to the refuge (5-8 hours). On this first stretch having some change on hand is a good idea as you’ll find plenty of locals selling fresh orange juice and some other beverages on the way up. However the further you get this will taper off.

If you don’t feel motivated enough to spend 3 days hiking to Jebel Toubkal, there is several shortest trekking paths in the region. There is also a beautiful waterfall is located just 30 min walk from Imlil.

Shorter (and longer) High Atlas Hikes

Whether you choose to do a long or short hike a great company to reach out to is High Atlas Hiking. The company is staffed by local, licensed mountain guides. They can help you arrange a single day experience up to a week or more (and everything in between). Because they are locals they know the area well and can be sure you’re experiencing the best the area has to offer.

There is also horse back riding, cycling or simply sitting back to relax on one of the roof terraces while sipping some Moroccan mint tea and enjoying the landscape!

WHERE TO EAT IN IMLIL

While in Imlil, the goat and lamb barbecue ribs are a real treat for all the foodies. The cherry season is in June and the walnuts are available in September-October! Simple food and beautiful nature really define this region.

You’ll also find several “snack” shops that sell things like shawarma and pizza. But for great Moroccan food you’ll want to check out what your accommodation offers. Many also provide meals for those visiting just for the day.

WHERE TO STAY IN IMLIL

Kasbah Imlil

A fantastic location in Imlil with terraces in the rooms and a welcoming staff that makes you feel at home. There are easy treks available from the hotel or you can book longer 2 or 3 day hikes if you’d like.

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Toubkal Ecolodge

A good choice for winter visitors who want to engage in cross country skiing, the hotel is equipped with ski up access. Request a room with a valley view for really exceptional views!

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Gite Tamsoulte

For budget travelers looking simply for a place to spend the night that is clean and comfortable this is a good option. Owners are well versed on local hiking trails and can arrange for guides or guide you themselves on hikes!

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Lahcen’s House

Check out Lahcen’s house (+212 666 57 26 38, around 80 dh per person per night, homemade meals on request cooked by Lahcen’s lovely wife – one of the best breakfasts I have ever had), beautiful view of the valley, rooms with private or shared bathrooms).

TRIPS, TOURS, AND ACTIVITIES

Waterfall in Imlil Morocco

Imlil Day Trip with Lunch in a Berber Family Home and Mule Ride

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Marrakech : Transfer from Marrakech to Imlil or Vice Versa

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Full-Day Private Tour to Imlil Valley including Guided Hike and Lunch from Marrakech

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RELATED DESTINATION GUIDES

Before getting to Imlil you’ll likely be in Marrakech. In this destination guide you’ll find everything you need to have a successful trip.

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Seeking another Moroccan mountain destination? Chefchaouan may be what you seek. A small village with good local hiking options but in the north of the country.

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