Destination Guides

Nestled on the Atlantic Coast between Al Jadida and Casablanca, Oualidia is a cozy little fishing town, famous for its seafood and in particular, its oysters. This small village was off the map for many years due to its somewhat isolated location. Today many people both Moroccan and tourists enjoy visiting year-round, but especially in summer due to the beautiful oceanfront.

The first “royal beach” came to be in Oualidia in the 1940’s when King Mohamed V built a palace and dubbed it so. It’s long been abandoned but many people, especially of the elite class followed the king’s lead. Today it’s best known for oysters but they really weren’t on the radar until the 1950’s when Japanese oysters were used and French techniques applied. It’s since grown into quite an industry.

While summer is the most popular time of year to visit Oualidia it’s beautiful year round. We visited in November and the weather was still lovely, though perhaps a little too cold if ocean swimming is on your radar.

Getting to Oualidia

Oualidia is between the cities of Safi and El Jadida. It is approximately two hours driving from Casablanca and three hours driving from Marrakech. The roads to Oualidia are small two lane roads though partial access exists from the larger toll roads.

Using Public Transportation to Reach Oualidia

There are limited public transportation options available to reach Oualidia.

Trains

No train lines run to Oualidia directly but you can take the train from Casablanca to El Jadida and then transfer to the CTM bus from El Jadida to Oualidia. This route is available once a day.

Buses
The CTM bus line runs from Casablanca to Oualidia once a day and costs 85dh. You also can travel from El Jadida to Oualidia and Essaouira to Oualidia as options. From Marrakech you can reach any of these three destinations and continue on to Oualidia.

Taxi

Grand taxis are available from most cities to reach Oualidia, however the closer your starting point to the two-lane the easier it will be to find a ride. A shared grand taxi is the least expensive option however you will need to wait until the taxi fills up which can be a long time. It’s also possible to hire the driver and the full car to take you.

Driver

A private driver might be the best option if you don’t want to rent a car (or have access to a car) and don’t want to drive yourself. Most hotels and riads can help you arrange a driver for forward transfer. This can be done either with a 4×4 or van OR they also can arrange a private taxi. The price should be discussed and agreed upon before departure.

Getting around Oualidia

The city is small two-lane so it’s possible to walk most places. You can also rent a bike or use the petit taxis to get around the city. If you want to go further afield then you’ll need to grab a grand taxi.

What to do in Oualidia

You don’t come to Oualidia to do things – you come here to relax! If you’re after an active holiday two-lane point to this might not be the best stop for you. But if you want to chill out you couldn’t have found a better spot.

Weekly Market

If you’re in Oualidia on the weekend then it’s really worth a trip into town to visit the weekly souk (market). You can’t miss it. This is where Moroccans from the village and surrounding areas come to do their weekly shopping. You can wander the stalls selling produce and home goods as well as any and everything else you can imagine. It also has a section where you can find people eating lunch with lots of seafood of course! If you’re adventurous it’s worth having a meal here.

Surfing and windsurfing

The main area of Oualidia near the city is largely a calm lagoon but if you go a little further afield you will find plenty of surfing and windsurfing.

Birdwatching

In the spring and autumn are the best times to do birdwatching in Oualidia. This is when the migrations happen from Europe to Africa. Birds like flamingos, ergets and storks are just some of the flying creatures you can observe.  

Boat Rentals

Boats, kayaks and canoes are available to rent from agencies in town and near the water. The smaller crafts you can take out on your own. If you’d rather a chartered boat for fishing or simply a boat ride these are also available. Rumor is between August and October it’s possible to do some whale watching off the coast.

Eating in Oualidia

Seafood, seafood, seafood

This is what Oualidia is known for and why many people come to visit. So it’s no surprise that there is a lot of seafood on menus! The city is known for their oyster farms (though personally I think the ones in Dakhla are better) but all types of fish and seafood are available.

L’Araignee Gourmande – A very popular restaurant for seafood you can get a wide variety of seafood at a reasonable rate. They have an extensive menu but make sure to ask for any daily specials depending on what seafood is fresh that day.

Ostrea II – If you’re coming to Oualidia for their signature oysters this is where you should go. They do a variety of seafood but oysters are their signature. Keep in mind you can’t have oysters year round so double check if this is important to you.

La Plage (at La Sultana) – For a special meal head to La Plage. In addition to fresh caught seafood and fish, the hotel also has its own organic garden where the vegetables are sourced personally two. Dress up and enjoy a sit down gourmet meal – make sure to make reservations ahead of time.

Where to Stay in Oualidia

Hotel l’Hippocampe

This wonderful family-friendly hotel is possibly one of the best-kept secrets in Morocco! The Ilane Family has proudly run the Hippocampe (meaning ‘seahorse’, in French), for over  30 years. Recently under new (still family!) management by Irina and Neil Illane, this gem of a spot has a gorgeous garden, friendly staff, and a warm feel that welcomes families of all ages.

The hotel also offers an array of fun outdoor beach activities such as kayaking, surfing, and more. The hotel pool sits over the beautiful sheltered cove, a UNESCO recognized site. The lovely hotel restaurant, specializing in fresh seafood, is also open for lunch and dinner if you are passing through town.

La Sultana

One of the most luxurious hotels in Oualidia this is where you want to go if you want to be spoiled. The 5 star property has every amenity you could want with fantastic service. Their gorgeous pool overlooks the lagoon; truly the ultimate place to relax. Book in advance, rooms here usually fill up quickly especially in the summer season.

Maison de la Lagune

This is a self-catering apartment is simple but just a short walk to the lagoon. You will want to have a vehicle if you’re staying here to access areas nearby. You have a kitchenette at your disposal if you’d prefer to cook yourself. If you’re looking for an affordable option in Oualidia this is a good choice.

El Manzar

Find this small guest house in the kasbah of Oualidia. The beachfront destination promises great views along with a restaurant or shared kitchen if you prefer to cook for yourself. Free WIFI and breakfast are included with the rate. There are also plenty of outdoor seating areas for when you want to soak up the sun or enjoy an evening drink.

Azalai Beach Cottage

If you truly are looking for a secluded getaway this is where you want to be; but you will need a vehicle to access it. It’s one of my favorite stays in all of Morocco. Choose from rooms in the main house or detached bungalows; it’s ideal for couples or families traveling. Enjoy walks along the Atlantic cliffs or relax by their pool. To top it off their food is fantastic. We took both breakfast and dinner at their onsite restaurant – it’s a set menu so you do need to let them know ahead if you have allergies and if you’ll be dining in.

Trips and Tours

Book a day trip from Marrakech to Safi and Oualidia

Two Day trip from Marrakech to Oualidia with an overnight

This tour includes an overnight in a comfortable hotel. If you’re not picky about where you stay and want to make this trip from Marrakech it’s a good option.

Additional Destination Guides

Beaches of Morocco

Safi

The busy port city of Tangier, Morocco is located at the western entrance to the Strait of Gibraltar. This historical city has a rich history and a truly multi-cultural vibe. It’s a bustling city that can be a little rough around the edges at times. If you are spending time there as a tourist, it is good to be aware of your surroundings. But that edginess is also one of its charms, giving Tangier a vibrant “real-ness” that you don’t always find in a place so popular with tourists and travelers.

Is Tangier worth visiting?

If you’re nearby than certainly it’s well worth a visit as it has a distinctly unique feel you won’t find elsewhere in Morocco. However, if you won’t be near the city it may not really be worth the time to reach it. 

If you’re wondering how many days in Tangier you should plan consider what you may want to do. Will you use it as a base to explore surrounding areas like Asilah, Tetouan, and Chefchaouan or will your journey go onwards? One to two days is typically enough time to see the sights of the city.

Even though Tangier has a less than rosy history, things have changed in recent years. Wondering if Tangier is safe to visit? It’s no less safe than any other city in the country – or region for that matter. Moroccan police have increased security forces throughout the country in light of world events and much has been done in recent years to clean up Tangier and her image. You may encounter hassles from vendors but when it comes to crime, pickpocketing and petty theft are typically the most serious infractions seen.

In order to make the most of your Tangier experience, I offer you this helpful guide!

The History of Tangier

The history of Tangier begins before the 5th century BC with native Amazigh (Berber) tribes and Phonecian traders making landfall to trade. It has gone, and continues to go by many names; Tanja, Tingi, Tingis, Tanger and Tangiers. Tingis is said to be derived from Tingis, the daughter of Atlas in Greek mythology. It’s more likely however the word comes from the Semitic word tigisis, or harbor. Sometimes the city is referred to as Boughaz, “the bride of the north” by the Moroccans or “the door of Africa” for its strategic position.

Berber tribes have lived in the area for centuries but the Carthaginians were the first outsiders to settle and colonize the area. The Romans and Byzantinians later controlled the area for various periods of time. It wasn’t until the year 702 that Tangier came under the rule of the Muslims. During the fervor of European expansion and colonization the city fell to the Portuguese and was ruled from 1471-1662 by them. For a brief window it also was held by the British having been given as a gift to the king in exchange for his daughters’ hand in marriage.

After the United States gained independence – Morocco was the first country to recognize their independence – they built the first US consulate in Tangier. In 1821, the Legation Building in Tangier became the first piece of property acquired abroad by the new country. It was a gift from Sultan Moulay Suliman.

At the beginning of the 20th century Tangier was already quite the multicultural city. An estimated 40,000 people lived in the city; 20,000 Muslims, 10,000 Jews and 9,000 (mostly Spanish) Europeans. While much of the country was partitioned beginning in 1912 between the French and Spanish, Tangier was a bit of a different story. In 1923 it became an international zone governed by the French, Spanish and British.

World War Two was a very interesting time in Tangier. Due to its international status and the varied positions of the occupying countries. Spies, businessmen, writers, artists, intellectuals and all sorts of people showed up on the shores of Tangier for its mix of opportunity and live and let live policy found in few other places at the time. Tangier still has this allure however in 1956 it like the rest of Morocco became an independent nation. Rumor is spies still used it as an outpost during the Cold War.

How Do You Get to Tangier

Flying to Tangier

The Tangier airport (Ibn Battouta) handles over 1 million passengers a year. International flights arrive from Europe via airlines such as Ryanair, Air Arabia, Iberia, and TUI. Many major cities in Europe service Tangier including Paris, Brussels, Madrid and Amsterdam as well as smaller cities. Domestic flights also are frequent from cities such as Casablanca, Marrakech, and Ouarzazate.

Ferry to Tangier

One of the most popular ways to reach Tangier is by ferry. FRS ferries cross from Tarifa to Tangier and the fast crossing takes just over 30 minutes. Another route is from Algeciras to Tanger Med and is available on FRS or Acciona Transmediterrea. This crossing takes 70 minutes and the port is 30 km from the city of Tangier. Once weekly ferry service is available from Gibraltar to Tangier Med which departs Gibraltar on Friday evening and Tangier Med on Monday evening. This route takes 80 minutes.

During high season it is advisable to book early to ensure space at the time you would like to cross.

Guide to Using Ferries Between Spain and Morocco

Train to Tangier

Tangier is the first (or last) stop on the train line. Many travelers use the train to reach destinations further south in Morocco. One of the most popular routes is the overnight Tangier to Marrakech train. You can book a 4 person room with a bunk (either mixed or female only). You also can reserve just a seat in either first or second class. Be aware in second class there are no limits on ticket sold so you may be standing or squished. In first class every seat is assigned.

There is also now a high-speed train that runs from Casablanca to Tangier and vice-versa. The Al-Boraq train takes 2 hours and 10 minutes to travel this complete route and has both first and class tickets available.

Bus to Tangier

There are two main types of buses that operate in Morocco; “public” buses and private buses. Public buses are generally used by locals going from place to place in more remote areas not covered by train service. Private buses, namely CTM and Supratour also go to some of those locations but are quite a bit nicer. You have the option to use either though navigating the public bus system will be very difficult if you don’t speak French or Arabic.

Supratour and CTM have bus depot’s in most cities however, they often don’t run between destinations that have train service. So if you want to take a bus from Marrakech to Tangier you may have difficulty finding one. However, if you’re trying to get from Chefchaouan to Tangier it’s the way to go. Make sure to check timetables ahead of time as in some cases there is only one or two buses a day.

Driving to Tangier

Several Moroccan highways (and smaller non-toll roads) come to a head in Tangier. The N1 that runs north to south, the N2 and N16 are the three major highways. It’s very easy to reach Tangier by car though parking in and driving in the city can be more of a headache.

What to do in Tangier

There are plenty of things that you can do to keep busy in Tangier. From exploring on your own to booking guided tours and activities and everything in between. The question is really – how long can you stay?

Read this post on What to Do in Tangier to get started planning your time here.

Visiting Tangier with kids?

Worried they’ll be bored?

Don’t be!

Check out some great ideas here on things to do in Tangier with kids.

Where to stay in Tangier

Planning on spending a night or two in Tangier? Then you’ll be looking for a riad or hotel to sleep. There are many choices however I have tried to narrow down some of the choices for you.

In this post you can find some of the best places to stay in Tangier.

If you’ll be visiting with kids than you might also want to view my list of family-friendly Tangier hotels.

Where to eat in Tangier

There are no shortage of restaurants in Tangier. There seems to be a place to eat around every corner. If you are seriously hungry, look for a place that the locals are. Due to it’s location on the water it’s no surprise that what to eat in Tangier is fish and seafood. There are of course other options but this is what will be truly local.  That way, you’re likely to find something authentic and delicious.

Here’s our suggestions on where to eat in Tangier

Trips, Tours and Activities

Tangier Shore Excursion: City Tour of Tangier

It can be a bit intimidating to visit a new place, especially when it is a city as large and busy as Tangier. If you’d like to see the sites with the help of a tour guide, this full-day sightseeing tour might be just what you’re looking for. Not only will you enjoy the city, Kasbah, and Medina while guided around by an English-speaking tour guide, you’ll also get the chance to visit many of the historical and geographical landmarks in the area. And your transportation is an air-conditioned minivan – a welcome escape on a hot day!

Tangier Cooking Lesson

For a different kind of “tour” and an amazing hands-on experience, consider booking a Cooking Lesson while you’re visiting Tangier. You’ll learn some delicious ways to prepare traditional Moroccan cuisine while also getting to eat some of the best food you’ve ever imagined. Best of all, after enjoying your amazing experience, you can take your newfound skills back home to share some amazing home-cooked Moroccan cuisine with everyone that you love. That’s one of the best ways to make your vacation memories last forever!

Tangier to Chefchaouen Private Transfer

If you are spending several days in Tangier and can spare the time, consider making a day trip to Chefchaouen. This beautiful village in the Rif Mountains is known for being charming and picturesque, and if you have the time, it is well-worth seeing. If you aren’t comfortable going alone, there are great tours available.

Private Guided Day Tour of Tangier

Heading to Tangier but not on a cruise? This tour will take you to see the major sites of the city along with a guide who can explain the history and culture of the city in detail. The tour is also private so you’ll be guaranteed that only your small group will be on the tour leaving you the ability to pick and choose what you do and see.

Take in Tafraoute on an Anti-Atlas circuit including Taroudant and perhaps Tiznit, or on a trip inland from Agadir on the Atlantic Coast. There is plenty to see in the area for a full day’s sightseeing (transport is pretty much essential), but the best thing about Tafraoute is that it is surrounded by such diverse landscapes enabling the visitor to uncover heaps of Amazigh (Berber) history and culture. The roads to and from Taroudant feature old granaries, hilltop Kasbahs, abandoned villages and verdant palm oases.

What not to miss

Tafraoute is the perfect base for climbers, hikers and those interested in exploring Berber culture in the surrounding hills. Although guidebooks generally mention the town’s key sights (see below), the real beauty of Tafraoute is the drive to and from the town. Road R105 runs over the tail end of the Anti Atlas mountains from Agadir to Tafraoute through the village of Ait Baha. On the way, stop off at Kasbah Tizourgane which has been lovingly restored by returning members of the original tribe which built it. You can even sleep there!

On other hill tops along the way, spot crumbling adobe granaries (used to store grain and valuables in turbulent times) and villages. The road to Ait Mansour, which runs southeast out of Tafraoute is also well worth a detour. Rising away from Tafraoute over rugged inclines dotted with sheep, it eventually descends into a shady palm oasis fed by a babbling river, where roadside cafes and shops provide a chilled drink under the trees for passing travellers. This is the long way round to Tiznit (over the dramatic Col de Kerdaous – avoid the hotel here) but it’s worth it!

What else to see and do

The other sights of Tafraoute are well-documented and are mainly based in the local rocks. The so-called gazelle rock carving a mile south of town, the painted rocks (painted by a Belgian artist in the 1980s) and the Napoleon’s hat collection of boulders on the way out of town towards Aguerd Oudad are worth remarking in passing, but nothing much to write home about. Much more worthwhile is the Maison Traditionelle in the Ammeln Valley, a house preserved to demonstrate village life in the days before most of the men left to seek work in big cities such as Casablanca, Tangiers, Marseilles and Brussels. Descendents of the original owners have restored the house and a guest house next door and offer an informative and entertaining glimpse of life in a Soussi village.

Where to stay

It is unlikely you’ll be visiting this area without transport, and there are two accommodation options slightly out of town which far outshine those in the town centre.

Auberge Kasbah Chez Amaliya sits under the mountains of the Ammeln Valley and offers suites around a large pool as well as a popular restaurant. The Dutch owner, Liesbeth, is a mine of useful tips and information on the local area.

El Malara is a French-owned property, built in a modern country house style with a pool with nine rooms, including what they call the sheepfold – a small space incorporating 6 beds ideal for a group or family.

Accueil

Where to eat

Despite the abundant local produce, Tafraoute is no culinary capital. Other than eating at your hotel, a solid option is La Kasbah on the Route Imiane (R107) which heads out of town towards the painted rocks. The menu mirrors those of tourists restaurants up and down the country, but the quality is good, the prices are reasonable and beer and wine are served. Popular with backpackers, bikers and hikers, there are always plenty of people to share travellers’ tales and tips with.

What to bring back

Tafraoute is known for colourful embroidered babouche slippers – the patterns indicate the wearer’s marital status. Market day is Wednesday, an opportunity both to pick up souvenirs and see locals buying and selling essential provisions.

Although the town of Tafraoute won’t occupy much more than a day of sightseeing, it is a great base from which to explore the surrounding area and learn more about the Soussi way of life. Often combined on a road trip with its near neighbour Taroudant, Tafraoute is a more modest town offering fewer urban activities and instead plenty of opportunity to explore the peaks and valleys of the Anti Atlas region.