travel with kids

When we went to Fez last month there was one activity I was most looking forward to. Not that everything wasn't amazing but we had arranged to visit an organic farm that produced goat cheeses and I could hardly stand the wait! The boys were equally excited. This might not seem like something kids would look forward to but my kids were raised on a healthy diet of cheeses, and lots of them before we moved to Morocco. Here, cheese is tough to come by – especially when you don't live in the mountains. It's just not very popular.

It makes sense. In order for a cheese making culture to be established there needs to be the right environmental conditions. Really hot temperatures with little shade and few refrigeration options are not ideal for making cheese. But in the mountain areas the story is much different. With the help of Plan-It Fez we visited Domaine de la Pommeraie outside of Fez in the rural community of Immouzer. Having a car has really opened up our options as we were able to drive ourselves the 45 minutes outside of Fez to the farm. (If you're interested in doing this Plan-It Fez can arrange transport for you!)

It was early spring and while there's usually snow a little further up the mountains we found everything to be green and in full bloom. To say it was beautiful would be an understatement. After months of dusty reds and browns seeing fields of green, hills covered in blossoming trees, and grass as far as we could see was a very welcome sight! While we drove up to the farm our boys were so excited they couldn't wait to jump out of the car. We were met at the road by Btissame who would be our guide (and who shared a very similar story to ours having lived in the US for many years before returned to Morocco). She spent time explaining the premise of the farm, its goals, and the products made here. As we walked we were greeted by some of the goats enjoying their lunch in the orchard.

Next we went into the barns to see the new baby goats that were being born. What great timing! When I asked my boys what their favorite part of the visit was they both readily said “the goats!” These are not your average Moroccan goats. Alpine goats from Europe are bred with Moroccan goats to create two generations of hybrid animals. By the third generation a genetically Alpine goat is born. Wherever we turned we met goats who were going about their day. They have free range over where they go and while under some supervision, they largely stay close to home. After taking lots of time to play with the goats, it was time to get down to business – cheese eating business!

A Guide to Cheese Tasting in Morocco

But there was more than just cheese. We sat down to a table that not only had 5 different cheeses waiting for us but rghaif, harsha, honeys, olive oil, and fresh bread. Btissame walked us through each of the cheeses;

• Jnane Douar – a round cheese that is aged aged 1 week
• Kandri – aged a bit longer for 1-2 weeks
• La Bouchette – a log shaped cheese that is aged 21 days
• La Berbere – this is a special cheese, made only in Morocco and full of superstition. It's only made at night when there's no moon present.
• Mimouna – a cheese similar to Camembert

We took turns trying each one slathered on our choice of bread. Drizzling some with honey or olive oil. I was so proud of my boys who dug in without even questioning. They worked to remember the different names and took turns comparing the different cheeses and what they liked and didn't like.

We decided that La Berbere was our very favorite. It surprised me the kids chose this because while it has a very nice taste it's not as mild as the Jnane Douar or Kandri. They also ate plenty of harsha and we've decided it's made much better in northern Morocco than southern. Our least favorite was La Bouchette. It wasn't bad but it was much stronger than the others. Honestly, I enjoyed all of them!

Domaine de la Pommeraie makes many different varieties of goat cheeses in small artisanal batches. The famous La Mimounia hotel (as well as many others) in Marrakech special orders cheeses from here to serve. We very happily took home several cheeses and honey. In talking with Btissame I discovered that the (Moroccan) owners of the farm are working with local schools to educate children more about nutrition and organic foods. Dairy is not a big part of the Moroccan diet. Milk is available and consumed and yogurt is eaten, but cheese is rarely found. If it is it's highly processed or often stored improperly leading to spoilage. The farm also offers cooking classes – something that I hope I can return soon to take part in. (How fun would a girls cooking/relaxing trip be?!) On-site you'll also find a swimming pool and villa that can be rented. We couldn't imagine a more wonderful place to spend a weekend!

If you're visiting Fez, this is a partial day trip outside the city. You'll be surprised to see how much the landscape changes and the different side of Moroccan life you will encounter. It was a great activity for us as adults and for our kids, who still ask when we'll be going back.

Domaine de la Pommeraie Route Imouzer Kandar, Ain Chiffa, Ain Sbaa – contact for rentals and cooking courses +212 65 38 52 488
We organized our visit with Plan-It Fez

Having visited Marrakech for the better part of 10 years I'm very familiar with the different room options for visitors. One of the most popular here and in Fez is to stay in a riad. I've had the good fortune of visiting and staying in several and overall think they are the most wonderful way to experience Morocco.

What is a riad?

In Morocco, the term refers to a traditional home or palace with an interior garden or courtyard. The first signs of riads in Morocco can be dated as far back as the Roman empire (2nd century AD) and has been discovered in the ruins at Volubilis outside of Fez. On the exterior riads are indistinguishable. In fact most of the time there is nothing but a solid colored wall. Once you step in however, there is much to be discovered. Interior balconies, gardens, and beautiful ornamentation completely change the feel. Our current home is designed in the style of a traditional riad, sadly we have no interior courtyard garden.

When we decided to visit Fez, I immediately thought why not stay in a riad? I wondered if this would be a good idea with the kids, as I remembered the riads I had stayed at in the past were quiet escapes but, I knew my boys and my husband would enjoy the experience and so we pushed ahead. Riad Anata gladly accepted my request and we were soon on our way to enjoying a real Moroccan getaway.

We arrived in Fez after 7pm on Thursday night after a long drive up the tollway from Marrakech. It's sometimes easy to forget just how large Morocco is but this trip was a good reminder. It was a beautiful drive but I'd be lying if I didn't say we were thrilled to finally arrive. Just like in Marrakech, parking in Fez can be tricky. One of the perks of staying at Riad Anata was that there is guarded parking just a short distance from the riad. We had no problem and always found an open space whenever we returned from going out with the car. If you were arriving in Fez via train or bus you'll have few problems. It's close enough that you can walk to almost everything, and as the old medina is car-free anyway you will be able to easily walk and access the sights.

Once we checked in to the riad we decided to head out and find something to eat before falling into bed. Just a short walk away we found many open air restaurants serving the traditional Moroccan tourist fare in the shadow of Bab Beljeloud (the blue gate). We settled for some grilled chicken skewers and fries. The food was good and about 1/2 of what it would have cost in Marrakech. We were happy to find Fez was much more affordable! We didn't spend much time exploring, and instead opted to head back and call it a night. The boys were happy to have a big bed that we could all lay together and watch Frozen!

Many riads include breakfast in their offerings and Riad Anata was no exception. Every morning we went to the rooftop overlooking the city to enjoy the days' offerings. I wasn't sure what to expect. At the other riad I had stayed in many years ago in Marrakech our breakfast was a bit rustic – good but rustic. Here everything was laid out before we arrived and as soon as we sat tea, coffee, and other treats began arriving.

Plenty of coffee and tea was always available followed by a varying selection depending on the day. Bread, jam, olive oil, and butter were always present. We also were treated to a sweet bread with candied oranges on top (me and K couldn't get enough of this!), beghrir, msemmen, yogurts, eggs, fresh fruit, and harsha on different days. There was always plenty of food and we were happy to fill our stomachs before heading out for the day. I can honestly say I readily looked forward to what we'd find in the morning!

Some days we were gone all of the day and didn't spend much time at the riad. While others we relaxed and enjoyed ourselves. For me, one of the most relaxing afternoons was when the boys all took a nap and I laid on the roof reading and writing. With a view like this who wouldn't enjoy themselves?

When we finally checked out I can honestly say we walked having had a wonderful experience and being pampered. Small touches like having a variety of toiletries in the bathroom went a long way! We were able to store cheeses that we had purchased in the refrigerator and we had one amazing dinner in the riad. After having several touchy meals this was savored. It helps that my kids both enjoy Moroccan food and were happy with what was presented. Our beds were comfortable and everyone loved the warm comforters and extra hot showers – small comforts that we took for granted before moving to Morocco.

Why should you stay in a riad?

• you'll form more personal relationships with real people. The staff are here to help you but they also become more like family. They live in the area and can tell you what to do and see. They want to make you comfortable and see that you enjoy your time.
• they're beautiful examples of architecture and traditional living.
• the food! Treat yourself to a meal in a riad and you won't regret it. The women (and sometimes men) who prepare food in the kitchens of riads are preparing the type and quality of food you'd eat in a Moroccan home. Not to be missed!
• It's a unique experience. Staying in a hotel means room after carbon copy room. They're largely impersonal.  In a riad each room has it's own personality and small touches.
• If you want the feel of an apartment without having to go through the work of cooking and cleaning up than a riad is the next best thing.

Tips for staying in a riad with kids;

•  if you know your kids are loud, rambunctious, and difficult to get to sleep this may not be the best option. I don't think I would have chosen to stay in a riad if my kids were still young toddlers or babies. It would have been stressful for me and other people.
• Ask ahead of time about the space available. Many riads and even hotels in Morocco have space for 3 people, but finding room for 4 is more difficult. Discuss this ahead of time as you may need to book 2 rooms.
• Prepare ahead of time. Many riads do not have in room TV's or other entertainment. If your kids aren't use to unplugging, this may be a point of contention!
• Talk to the staff about any dietary needs or preferances. They generally will be more than happy to find a solution and accomodate you!
• Remember, a riad is essentially a big house that you will be sharing with other people. Keep this in mind and explain this concept ahead of time to your children. Being respectful to other guests is important.
• At the same time this can be a great opportunity to get to know other people from different parts of the world on a more personal level. Enjoy!
• Don't forget to take care of the staff. While tipping in Morocco is generally a small amount here and there, leaving a tip for the cleaning staff and others is a welcome and appreciated gesture. Often tips are split but if you're unsure it wouldn't be rude to ask when making your reservation how tips are handled.

If you're visiting Fez, this is a great riad that we recommend and give two thumbs up! Be sure to enjoy at least one meal here, it might be your favorite of the visit (it was ours!) Let the staff know in the morning what you'd like to have for lunch or dinner and the time. 

Riad Anata Derb El-Hamia Fes, Morocco

On our long weekend in Fez, Morocco I set out to find things that our boys would enjoy doing. I know my kids (and husband for that matter) well enough to know that dragging them up and the streets of Fez shopping was not going to be enjoyable. While I am enjoying decorating and designing our apartment, I also didn’t want to spend my days shopping. There are a lot of museums and historical sites in Fez, it’s really a very fun place and I’ll write a post just on that too. But, this post is all about the drums.

There are some great companies in Morocco that aim to provide unique and interesting experiences for all ages. I consulted my memory rolodex and recalled a company that was doing food tours in Fez. I first stumbled on them when I started to research what kind, if any, food tours existed in Marrakech. I quickly perused the website and found a drum making experience. Perfect!

Plan-It Fez is owned by two women, British and Australian, who now call Fez home. As soon as I contacted them I knew this was going to be great. Not only would we be able to make drums but also visit a cheese farm outside of Fez. But back to the drums. Our guide Jamal picked us up at our riad the morning of our drumming date. My boys instantly took to him and thankfully he was more than happy to reciprocate the feelings.

We wound our way through the streets of the medina (did you know Fez has the largest car-free medina in the world?) and I couldn’t help but notice how nice it was not to dodge motorcycles at every turn. My first trip to Fez, I felt like there were so many more people but maybe that was due to the overwhelming sense of displacement my 19 year-old self was experiencing. We finally arrived at the drum shop and the fun began!

The drums themselves are already made so there's no pottery shaping which was totally fine. After poking around the shop and learning a little bit about the drums and techniques it was time for the kids to dig in. They would be making a double drum and each got to paint one of the drums. The design was geometric and we were told a Berber design. The kids used the brush (that looked a lot like a calligraphy pen) to paint on the design with some help from the painter. It was fun to hear them talking back in forth in Arabic as they worked. (If you don't speak Arabic, don't worry – our guide was able to translate and the guys in the shop did know some English).

The night before we weren't sure if M would be making it to the drum shop after having a run-in with some bad food, but he was not to be deterred. I knew he would love this the most as he's a bit more artistic. As you can see he was in deep concentration painting! Once the designs were all applied we left them alone to dry. MarocBaba tried his hand at the skinning process.

The drums are topped with leather, either from cow, camel, sheep, or fish (really!) The skins are delivered with the hair on them and are soaked. Then the hair and fat layer is removed using a sharp trowel like knife. It's not a pretty job and while we thought it looked pretty easy MarocBaba said that it really was difficult. This wasn't a part of the process for the kids to help with – sharp knife blades.

We waited for the kids drums to dry and watched the other parts of work going on in the shop. K was infatuated with the spinning pedestal that the painter uses to make the lines on the drums. He “helped” for a long-time and I was so grateful that the man painting was patient and didn't mind at all. He adjusted his technique so that K could spin the turnstyle for him. This is one thing I love about Morocco – kids are just allowed to help out and it's ok. People (for the most part) have so much patience and really do love children.

The final steps were to add the leather top, sew on the kin and bind the drums together. The leather is again soaked to get wet and then trimmed to fit the top of the drum. Any imperfections or weak spots can't be on top of the drum or it won't work right. Not only are the tops made with leather but the cording used to tie it together as well. The leather “man” uses a pair of sharp scissors to trim long ropes of leather cording that are then used to…

Sew the top on. There is no glue used at all in the process. Tying on the leather the right way ensures it dries tight without any gaps between the top of the ceramic and the leather. A long sharp needle is used to sew it on. Each of the boys were able to sew it on and did an awesome job! For our drums the large and small were tied together and then they had to be left out to dry.

The boys took their turns signing the drums. They of course played with the other drums in the shop and tried to learn how to play a rhythm. Let's just say they probably won't be the next great percussionists!  We were going to be in Fez longer so we went back the next day to get our fully dried and ready to play drums but if you don't have time to come back then you can take your drum with when you leave. This was a really great way to spend the morning, just long enough to hold their attention and keep them busy. It's been one of their favorite things we have done in Morocco so far! If you want to shop for pottery or leather goods, there are several shops within the same area that mom or dad can browse while the kids are hard at work.

After spending the morning working hard on drums there was only one thing left to do – grab a milkshake and relax!!

If you're going to Fez, I highly recommend visiting the Plan-It Fez website for unique and fun activities in and around the city. The staff is helpful, very responsive, and able to make great recommendations for you and your family. Watch for an upcoming post about our other excursion with Plan-It Fez to an organic cheese farm! 

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Some people say there are two different Morocco's – the rural and the urban. But, I think there are many, many more. For a small country (remember Morocco is only the size of the US state of California) the geographic differences are sometimes overwhelming. The country is divided by mountain ranges, deserts, forests, and some waterways. These natural borders make the differences even more glaring. Traveling from Marrakech to the Sahara, over the High Atlas mountains we knew that there would be several stops along the way. I had visited the Sahara in the southern Morocco but we were headed East so after we reach Ouarzzazate it was all new to me.

As the sun set on our first day, after we had left Ait Ben Haddou behind for several more hours on the road, we began to see canyons forming. We drove with giant walls of rock on all directions and the yellow, orange, and red colors that bounced off their surfaces added to the natural beauty. Homes appeared to be affixed to the rock face and I couldn't help but wonder what happened if some of the rocks came loose? Our van pulled over next to rocks that looked like fingers or marshmallows. Really, I never thought I would be impressed by rocks but these were pretty amazing! Shortly afterwards we headed to our hotel for the night. The rooms themselves weren't spectacular save for three factors. 1) Heat in the room 2) really really hot showers 3) the view out our window. Our room was on a patio that overlooked the gorge and river below and it really was stunning. K and I were up early before sunrise and went out to sit on the patio with blankets to watch the sun come up over the rocks. I was in awe. He was cold. But, he still talks about that morning with mom so it was worth it!

In the morning, after our breakfast of msemmen and local cheese and honey we took a small drive to a community in the Dades Valley (the valley of figs). Remember, this was February and the trees were blossoming! Suffice to say this was like an eden on Earth. It truly is beautiful. Our time in Marrakech has taught me one thing, the value of water. Where there is water, there is life – it is so very evident. We ambled around fields of almonds, cherries, peach, apple, fig, apricot, and probably dozens of others. The fields were green and old fashioned irrigation systems put some of the mechanical set-ups I've seen to shame. For most people life is still very traditional. As seems typical with every organized tour I've taken in Morocco we were next brought to a rug co-op to see the different styles and designs made here.

A woman at a loom was in the room and showed us how the rugs were made by hand. Every woman has a different design and they're not written down, it's all in her head so no two rugs will ever truly be the same. (Some advice if you're buying a rug here – the rugs shouldn't look too “perfect” remember if they're made by hand there are going to be some anomolies no matter how skilled the weaver is. If it looks like a machine could have made it, you're probably right!) I was able to sit down next to the woman and watch her at work. She and I probably had the same level of Arabic skills (she spoke Berber, of which I know 2 words) and so it was an interesting little conversation we had. I think this was my favorite part. We didn't go home with a rug, but my mom did. You can find a lot of advice online about buying a rug. Keep in mind like most things in Morocco the first price isn't fixed. There's an expectation that you'll bargain for it. Keep in mind the price you're willing to pay and maybe select a few rugs so that you can find something that will eventually be in your price range.

As much as I loved the rugs, because I do really love Moroccan rugs, I loved the yarn even more. The wool comes from sheep, camels, or cactus (agave) and each has a different feeling. It's combed to make long threads and then dyed using natural dyes like indigo, poppy flowers, and saffron. All organic rugs! I don't know what I would have done with all kinds of colorful yarn but I'm sure I could have found a use.

Our tour of the area ended as we made our way to the end – and maybe the most dramatic – part of the gorges. The rock walls here were massive and we could see several rock climbers hanging off the sides. You can see me in the picture in comparison to just how tall these canyons are, and we couldn't get the whole face into the picture. There are more than 150 routes mapped onto the canyon walls (it's quite popular) with anchors and apparatus in place for those who come to climb. I don't think I'll be going up anytime soon!

This was my favorite part of our entire trip. I liked it more than being in the Sahara and would have gladly spent more time here than at Ait Ben Haddou. There are many different hiking excursions leaving from this area but I would have been just as happy to have gone home with a family and spent the afternoon in the kitchen cooking or learning how to weave a rug. The kids had fun walking around outside, and even enjoyed learning about how the rugs were made. We found no matter where we went our guides were very very good with kids, which is true for most all Moroccans. Kids are welcome and loved. I highly recommend a visit to this area of Morocco.

Getting There: Todra Gorges and Dades Valley – 100 km northeast of Ouarzazate before Tinerhir. Depart via car from Marrakech or fly to Ouarzazate for closer departures.