Spain

This is a guest post from Anca of Dream, Book and Travel.

The South of Spain is a land sodden with history and legends, old customs and culinary traditions. It is one of the most fascinating regions to visit in Europe, especially for cultural travelers such as ourselves, who relish a region’s heritage and folklore as well as its rich history.

Following our recent Andalusia road trip with a toddler, we have put together below a list that ranks the five best places to visit with kids in Andalusia.

Seville

The regions’ capital is undoubtedly the best place to start exploring Andalusia and a good bet if you can only visit one place here. Elegant and mysterious, enveloped by the spirit of flamenco and bullfighting, it reminds best the days of the colonial Spanish empire.

Any visit to the city will take you to the world’s largest gothic cathedral right in the city center and its iconic bell tower, LA GIRALDA. If your kids already know their history, the tomb of Cristofer Columbus is inside the cathedral. Toddlers are free to roam the shaded orange garden and try on their new sunglasses (like ours did).

Whether or not you climbed to the top of the bell tower, you and your little ones should still spoil yourselves with the city’s best pastries at Cafeteria Pasteleria La Canasta just around the corner.

While an evening stroll through the city center and the atmospheric Santa Cruz neighborhood will be enjoyed by the entire family, mornings are best spent on the Plaza de Espana, followed by an afternoon stroll through Parque Maria Luisa.

The Plaza de Espana complex is a huge half-circle with buildings continually running around its edges. Along the entire perimeter of the plaza, there is a canal which can be travelled by boat, to the delight of little visitors.

They will also enjoy running around and playing hide and seek in the many tiled alcoves, each representing one region of Spain. Once they tire of this activity, you can go for a horse-drawn carriage ride and an ice cream in the shaded Parque Maria Luisa nearby.

For stays longer than a couple of days, there are several family friendly activities in Seville. A boat tour on the Gaudalquivir river, a visit to the Aquarium (themed on the travels of Spanish explorer Ferdinand Magellan), a climb to the top of Metropol Parasol, the world’s largest wooden structure, or a day of fun at the many aquaparks (Aquopolis, Isla Magica and Agua Magica).

We do not recommend visits with children at the Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza and the Real Alcazar of Seville. The former is the famous bullfighting arena of the city. While learning about this tradition is an integral part of the Seville’s cultural landscape, children might find the information and weapons on display troublesome. The bullring is also an open area, thus it is not advisable to visit it with kids on sunny days.

Many families write that they enjoyed exploring the centuries-old Alcazar palace, with its beautiful Moorish architecture and gardens. Like with many sites, we were put off by the long waiting lines and the generally over touristic atmosphere of the place (groups being led around by guides holding a pole, crowds, overpricing). We found that booking guided tours of such sites does not improve the experience, as these simply take too long and kids get utterly bored.

What we particularly enjoyed in Seville was spending time in the authentic neighborhood of Triana, across the river. Our toddler’s schedule did not agree with the late-night dinner time that is customary in Spain.

Thus, we found it easier to shop at the fresh produce market and eat at local restaurants close to our hotel, where they were happy to provide something for the little one outside of the kitchen’s operating hours. It also gave us the opportunity to mingle with locals at the playground and practice our non-existent Spanish at the supermarket. All in all, a very pleasant stay.

Malaga

Malaga is the city that most often gets overlooked in Andalusia itineraries. We have found it to be an excellent alternative to more touristic places, with its laid-back atmosphere and rich palette of kid-friendly activities. While we only had one and a half days to spend in Malaga, we thoroughly enjoyed a visit to the port, where the toddler played on the waterside promenade and watched the ships come and leave.

There is also the option to do a one-hour boat ride from there. One evening, we took the elevator up to the Alcazaba fortress (yes, with the stroller) and enjoyed playing around in the Moorish gardens and rooms. We had the entire place almost to ourselves, which was a welcome change to other crowded Moorish sites in the region.

A visit to the Gibralfaro medieval castle can be equally rewarding, followed by a stroll in the city’s main park, right in the center. Older kids are spoiled for choice in Malaga. The interactive Airport Museum, the Selwo Marina Delfinarium, the Bioparc Fuengirola, or the Tivoli World Amusement Park are all viable options to be explored.

Especially worth a visit is the Sea Life Benalmadena, where children can experience the ocean and get a lesson in conservation. There are touch pools, a mini golf area, as well as the option to go on a boat trip out to the sea.

Under no circumstances, however, should one miss out on the opportunity to enjoy the many excellent sand beaches around the city. If you are looking for a place to spend a few lazy days at the beach with your family, this is it. Your kids will thank you for it!

Granada

I have had mixed feelings about adding Granada to our road trip itinerary with a toddler. I have an entire list of books on Andalusia that I read in preparation for this trip and the culture addict in me did not want to miss out on seeing it. It came out to be a great city, vibrant and authentic, with many options for entertainment.

We had booked a private tour of the Alhambra, which proved to be too much for our toddler. The guide took more than one hour going through the Nasrid palaces and we found out the complex does not really offer options to get a snack or take a break other than some overprized poorly serviced vending machines. Add to that the long walk up and you can understand why we aborted mid-tour.

I have since read a lot of positive accounts of visits to the Alhambra with children and there are even special-themed tours designed for them. Thus, my advice is to research ahead and give it a try. I would have regretted not having done so.

During our stay we enjoyed an evening walk in the Albayzin quarter, an afternoon spent at the Nevada Shopping Center (they do have a playroom), and a morning stroll through the city center by the Cathedral.

Older kids might be amazed by the interactive Science Park Museum that features exhibitions on health and the environment, a butterfly house, a maze, and an astronomy garden. In the Cave Museum of Sacromonte, kids can explore how it’s actually like to live in a cave, while the water park Aquaola and the Parque Federico Garcia Lorca are other great options to consider.

Cordoba

We had a limited time to explore Cordoba as we took some time to relax at the kids friendly Hotel Abetos del Maestre Escuela outside the city center. In the afternoon that we did spend in the city, our toddler enjoyed running around in the Mezquita while her parents marveled at the interplay of architectural styles. This is a great monument to visit with kids as there are no waiting lines and the temperature inside is pleasant at any time of the day.

There is an open-air inner courtyard called the Patio de los Naranjos (Patio of the orange trees), which we loved so much we even stopped for an ice cream break there. Cordoba is synonymous with narrow streets with white-washed patio houses and flower pots.

Casa Andalusi is a typical such patio house turned into an unforgettable small a museum. It recreates a typical 12th-century Andalusian house with its furniture and decorations. It also houses an Islamic paper factory. The cool patios with water fountains and lush vegetation were thoroughly enjoyed by our toddler during the visit.

If you have more time on your hands, be sure to check out the combiticket that allows access to the Botanical Gardens, the Cordoba Zoo, and the Children’s City entertainment center.

Cadiz

A small ocean-side city with a rich history and unforgettable character, Cadiz is ideal as a one-day family trip destination. Its two castles (Castillo de Santa Catalina and Castillo de San Sebastian) make for good exploration start points, while the beaches are the delight of little humans (Playa de la Caleta, Playa Santa Maria del Mar, Playa de la Victoria).

Parque Genoves with its shaped big trees and playground is another popular destination in the city. An indoors alternative is the  Puppet Museum (Museo del Titere) that boasts one of the best collections in the world, is free of charge, and does allow visitors to touch some of the exhibits. To make sure your little ones are exhausted at the end of the day, you can always climb to the top of the Tavira Tower, the city’s highest observation point.

While many might regard Andalusia as a region best explored kids-free, we are very happy to have had the chance to see it as a family. Our toddler’s schedule was a good incentive to slow down and enjoy the atmosphere more.

Locals are extremely helpful and open to welcoming families and we did get the best possible services anywhere we went. We can only hope our experience will convince other parents to consider the South of Spain as a family holiday destination.

About Anca: We are an international couple based in Vienna, Austria, with a passion for planning  personalized travel itineraries for both ourselves and our readers. Two years ago, we became the proud parents of a baby girl and this has prompted us to adjust the style of our travels and itineraries to such a degree that our blog is now almost exclusively about cultural family travel.

If I said I do a little bit of research on where to eat when I travel that would be a lie. I do a LOT of research on where to eat when I travel. I create entire maps of places based on the time of day. I have been known to spend entire days just eating in different restaurants.

To me, exploring and experiencing a place is done through food so it is a top priority. Cordoba was no different.

This post is focused all on eating in Cordoba but if you’d like more insights on the city check out my post on what to do in Cordoba.

Breakfast in Cordoba

Cafe Don Pepe

A small cafe full of locals and zero tourists! They have more things on the menu but come for the churros and chocolate. You’ll find tables of older men and women talking and sipping cafe con leche with churros. This is one of those local spots you just happen into. Spanish is certainly a plus and the turn over is fast but a good, inexpensive breakfast.

Laquentra

Tortillas! This is one of my favorite Spanish foods and this is all you’ll find at this place. There are a handful of chairs but it’s mostly for take away. Behind the counter you’ll find a variety of potato tortillas with all kinds of fillings. You can buy by the piece or the entire thing if you’er feeding a crowd. Get it in bread or not.

Maddow Coffee Shop

Closer to the more touristic sites this is a juice and coffee bar that serves some tasty food too. They have toasts with different toppings, yogurt bowls and pastries. The juices are a bit on the expensive side but for fresh juice pressed on site I feel ok getting in some good vitamins to start the day!

La Bicicleta

I loved all the bike theme and decor here. They have breakfast, coffee and juices to start your day. Try one of the toasts that you can customize or a slice of cake- no judgment here.

Lunch, Snacks and Tapas

I’m grouping all of the afternoon and early evening eating together depending on when you might be out and about. Keep in mind many places in Spain close in the mid afternoon and Cordoba is no different.

Montecelio Bakery

A traditional Cordoba bakery with local treats and a variety of other sweets like doughnuts and pastel cordobés, the traditional pie/tart/pastry from here. I struggle to give it a name because it resembles all of them. There are a few seats and you can order coffee as well.

La Tarterie

If you really want cake then I would suggest visiting this bakery. It’s small and very near to the Roman temple. What’s available each day changes. I tried the oreo cheesecake but there were many other options as well. They do have vegan cakes (though sadly no gluten free options).

Mercado Victoria

This market has both fresh products (meats/cheeses/produce) as well as stalls that are selling prepared food and drinks. We went in the early evening around 6pm and there were people that were beginning to come for a drink and something to eat but it wasn’t too full. It’s open most of the day so if you’re stuck in an in-between eating time it might be a good time to visit.

We ate at O’Pulpino and it was ok. Not exceptional but we were hungry. Nearby was also an olive vendor and a cheese and meat tapas spot. There’s also a bar that sells 100% alcohol-free beer which was a nice treat for me!

Bodegas Mezquitas

This restaurant has a few locations but we ate at the one near the mosque. The menu is quite long and in some ways it did feel like it focused heavily on tourists however there were quite a few Spanish people also sitting and eating.

I liked that the menu featured dishes that are Christian, Jewish, and Muslim influenced and we tried some of each. We opted to do small plates (tapas) size dishes just so we could eat more. Overall, it was decent. I didn’t need to come back again but it was good. I especially liked the paella with oxtail instead of seafood.

Dinner in Cordoba

It’s important to remember in Spain meals are eaten late. The one night I had a dinner reservation for the earliest seating time was 8:30pm. We are used to this living in Morocco but if you’re coming from another part of the world (like the US) this might be a big adjustment. Growing up we always ate dinner at 5:30pm!

There are a LOT of restaurants in Cordoba so I’ve just broken down a few of my favorites to share here.

Noor

This was by far our splurge meal. This is a Michelin star restaurant located well outside the city center. We took a taxi and they called a taxi to take us back making things easy. There are only 8 tables and you must have a reservation. The concept is a recreation of foods that existed during 13/14th centuries using only the ingredients that would have been available – so no ingredients introduced from North or South America.

This is not just a meal but theatre. Each course is presented differently with completely new silverware and dishes. There are 3 meal lengths and prices with wine pairings if desired. I chose the short menu for us because I know MarocBaba has limited patience with this type of food.

The truth is we didn’t LOVE all the dishes, there’s 2 specifically that I really disliked but overall it was a special experience. If you’re someone who is adventurous and open to unique pairings and styles go for it. If you’re more picky than I’d probably say don’t try it.

(additional side note they can accommodate allergies – MarocBaba’s meal was 100% gluten free)

Al Abanico

This is a small local bar that is open at lunch or later in the evening for tapas and dinner. The food is all traditional dishes from Cordoba and they also have drinks available. The service seems to be hit or miss but I think it depends on what you expect.

El Astronauta

Expect a heavily Mediterranean menu full of tasty dishes. There are vegetarian and even some vegan options on the menu as well as an English menu and most staff speak at least some English if communication is a concern. They also have a few gluten free options as well.

Regadera

Modern Mediterranean dishes like the traditional Cordoba oxtail and paella dishes. Croquettes and ceviche as well as several delicious desserts all play off traditional Andalusian flavors.

Eating Gluten Free in Cordoba

Eating gluten free when traveling can be a big challenge. MarocBaba is celiac and so when we are traveling together I always have to be a bit more aware of what our options are.

Spain today has a LOT of gluten free options. Way more than even two years ago. Most all restaurants have gluten free items and do clearly list on their menu what is and isn’t gluten free.

Sensibles

A little shop off one of the main streets I just stumbled across it. They offer gluten-free crepes in the morning. They are 100% gluten free as well as offering vegan options. They also make other gluten-free treats so certainly worth a safe try!

Restaurante Sociedad Plateros María Auxiliadora

If you want to eat more traditional cuisine from this part of Spain this restaurant is worth a try. They have adapted the menu for several years now and offer a gluten-free menu of most of the traditional regional dishes. Reservations suggested.

Eating halal in Cordoba

There are a lot of Muslims that visit Cordoba (and Andalusia in general) to see the sites of Moorish Spain. You would expect there to be quite a few halal restaurants offering food for these visitors.

The good news? There are.

The bad news? There are not many.

Bocaito Andalusi was one place that we stumbled on in the Victoria market. The dishes were very Moroccan looking however not everything was something you’d find in Morocco so there was certainly some Andalusian influence.

Restaurante Qurtubah

This spot is not far from the mosque and has a menu that is Mediterranean/Moroccan/Middle Eastern with a variety of dishes. It gets good reviews but honestly we didn’t eat here so I can’t say how good or authentic it is.

If having halal only meat is very important to you, than you may want to stick to fish, seafood and vegetarian dishes. Luckily you’ll find quite a bit of all those.

Córdoba is one of the classic Moorish cities of Spain and well worth a visit if you plan to be in Andalusia. It’s much smaller and more navigable than cities like Seville however all of the cities in this region are really quite small and easy to get around. There is a central area, historical area and newer residential areas and you can walk most everywhere.

Is Córdoba safe?

A regularly asked question especially from female travelers. My answer is yes, its as safe as anywhere else. Take normal precautions as you would traveling anywhere. I went out in the early mornings by myself and never thought twice. As with all destinations that have quite a bit of tourism pick pocketing may be an issue, just be aware. 

I found most people here to be very friendly. I had several conversations just out of the blue; an old man who sat next to me on a bench and started chatting, the waitress in a local coffee shop, the taxi driver who gave an impromptu rundown of Córdoba in a neighborhood well outside the center. No need to have your guard up!

I don’t speak Spanish, will I be ok?

Yes, you will be. Many people who work in the tourism industry do speak English so in general you’ll be fine. I suggest learning a few words of Spanish just in case and for politeness. Please (por favor), thank you (gracias), bathroom (banno/toilette), yes/no (si/no), is always a good idea.

I spent 6 years of school grumbling about learning Spanish and I’m so grateful to have it now. I love being able to have basic conversations and be understood when English isn’t an option. (I also may like holding this over my entire families head as I’m the only one that knows any Spanish!)

Things to do in Córdoba 

Mosque Cathedral Córdoba/ The Mezquita

Yes, this is the main attraction in Córdoba and for good reason, it’s stunning. The mosque was built by Muslims in the 900’s, however the building was a church prior to this. This was the golden age of Islamic civilization and it’s amazing to see the craftsmanship in this building. It was retaken after the Christian conquest in the 1200’s and converted to a cathedral. 

There are many mosques across Andalusia that were converted to churches but this one is particularly unique. I cant say exactly what it is but I found the inside to be beautiful and weird at the same time. 

Many of the original architecture and design elements of the mosque remain and many have been adapted or had pieces put over them to make them more Christian. The mosque was expanded to add the naive area and the prayer areas of the church with the side chapels. Many elements were left such as the geometric tiling that then had Christian relief paintings added side by side. 

Having seen the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul which is another example of mosque/church mash up I found this one to be even more unique. It also made me smile a bit seeing sooo many people learning about and admiring the Islamic portions. 

Cordoba mosque tickets can be bought online or in person the day that you visit. If you’ll be visiting during peak season it’s advisable to get tickets in advance.

The building is open daily and is FREE from 8:30-9:30am every day. A general ticket is 10€ and you can also climb the tower for 2€ (check) or do the night visit. We didn’t get the audio guide or hire a tour guide which are both options but read the pamphlets instead. I think if you’re not familiar with the region, history or religions it would be helpful.

If you’re considering booking a guided tour this one gets great reviews;

Mosque-Cathedral of Cordoba Guided Tour with Tower Access

Castle of the Christian Kings (Alcazar Reyes Cristianos)

Very nearby the mosque is this castle which was where the kings lived after retaking Spain. The building itself is fun to visit because it feels a bit like you’re in a movie.  Though the inside is pretty sparse. There’s some great Roman mosaics in the garden grounds and on the walls in some of the rooms. Climbing up the towers gives you some really nice views of the city and gardens. 

For me the gardens are the loveliest thing about this area. Even though it was mid-fall when we visited there was still plenty of flowers in bloom and pomegranate trees heavy with fruits. They are really well kept and nice for just enjoying a walk and admiring. 

You can see the watering troughs which are in the style of Islamic gardens, and it would be really fun to see them with water flowing. I’m not sure when or if they open the gates but it’s a very interesting feature. If you’re traveling with kids, make sure to point them out and see if they can follow the maze of where the water would go! 

Admission is 5€ for adults, they also have a night time light show at a different price. Tickets can also be bought online.

Roman Bridge

You can’t miss this bridge from the mosque as it’s directly in front. Yes, it’s just a bridge but it’s pretty impressive! A walk across is a nice way to see the river and admire the buildings from the opposite side. I think at sunset it would be particularly beautiful. 

Flower Patios/Flower Streets

I’ll be honest we didn’t seek these out but they’re there. As mentioned we visited in md-October so not the ideal time for flowers in the area. Many people really love these streets so if that’s your thing – go for it! They’re very near the mosque and I’ll admit this entire area in general is very touristy so be prepared. 

Roman Temple of Córdoba 

This was sort of a surprise find one morning. I had not heard of this before I literally walked into it. The columns are near the city center and are preserved. It isn’t a surprise that there was a Roman settlement here, I was just surprised to find it. You truly can walk through multiple time periods in this small city!

Central Córdoba Streets

In contrast there are lots of streets that you can just wander were very few tourists will be. I loved the unique architecture and stumbling into random mosque/churches and churches. The Andalusian style is really unique to experience. Once you see the major sites move away for the tourist areas and try out the central city area. 

Where to Eat in Córdoba 

We ate in a variety of places from really cheap to very expensive to get a sense of what was here and available. If you’re interested in food specifically read my post about all the food! 

Where to Eat in Córdoba (+ Gluten Free Córdoba suggestions)

Where to stay in Córdoba

There’s a lot of options from chain hotels to airbnbs and hostels so no matter you’re budget you’re covered. 

H10 Palacio Hotel

After doing a lot of research this is where we decided to stay. The price was right for our midweek stay and it’s the type of place we like. We were happy with this choice. The room was very comfortable for us and it had great amenities. Pro tip: don’t get a courtyard room, it can be loud in the morning.

We opted not to have breakfast as MarocBaba is never up for breakfast and I knew there were lots of places nearby I could go to. The rooftop area has a gorgeous view and it is in a great location to access everything. It also has a pool!

Airbnb’s

A friend of mine visited a month before us and stayed in this great apartment but there are several here that are affordable and well appointed. We didn’t choose this only because I didn’t want the hassle when we would only be here two nights. 

Getting to and around Córdoba

Car – We contemplated renting a car for this trip however driving in the city centers is not my idea of fun so it was not an option. If you’re self-driving in southern Spain do pie prepared for a lack of parking and navigating small streets that often are one way with little recourse to turn around if you get lost. 

Train – We flew into Seville because it has direct flights from Marrakech and is then just a 40 minute train ride to Córdoba. There are numerous train connections, with the largest being from Madrid Atocha (90 minutes). I find the trains to be easy, fast and a realizable way to get around Spain. 

Bus – Spain has a vast bus network (ALSA) that goes to large and small cities. It’s quite cheap but the routes may be irregular depending on where you’re coming from. Córdoba is a larger city so depending on your starting point you can likely count on regular departures. Cordoba’s interior bus routes are also very easy to use, if you need to.

Plane – There is an airport here however like most small airports it will be a premium to fly direct. Given that Seville and Madrid are really not so far by train connection you can likely save a lot of money going with one of those options instead. 

I would say you don’t NEED to have a guide or guided tour here however it can be an asset depending on how you like to travel.. 

What to see in Cordoba in 1 day

Sleep in if you’re staying in town.

If you’re someone that wants to be out seeing the sites at 8am, you may want to slow down. Spain rarely operates this way. Take your breakfast around 8 and then head out. Conversely, I did find walking the streets at this time of day is quite nice as they’re mostly empty allowing you to enjoy them alone. 

Pop into a cafe or one of my breakfast selections to start your morning. 

By 10am things will start to happen, expect the tourist sites to be filling up right away. You may want to walk the streets if you’re not a fam of crowds during this time. 

The mosque is the most popular attraction so there will be crowds no matter what time you go. I would suggest either going at lunch time or later afternoon for the smallest crowds. People that come on day trips or short stays will be there first thing in the morning. But around 1-3pm is when people will be eating and after 5pm day trippers will have left. 

We visited the mosque first than the castle but the order you do it doesn’t make much difference, I would just suggest leaving it to later afternoon/evening for the fewest people. 

Some of the smaller sites to visit in the morning are the archeological museum or take a walk around the Roman ruins.

Have a late lunch around 1:30 – 2pm before things close down for the afternoon siesta time. While shops and things close, visit the mosque and castle. 

Dinner in Spain is late, many restaurants don’t open until 8pm, so from 6 onwards take a. Break. Head back to your hotel, rest or read a book in a patio or rooftop. This is a vacation after all! I am also known to pop into a bakery for a snack and a coffee or have a beer and tapas snack if that’s more your style. 

8:30 is usually the earliest dinner time so make your reservation ahead or pop into one of the many restaurants in Córdoba for your evening meal. Take your time, enjoy it and sit outside if you can, it’s a great place to people watch. (See my dinner suggestions here).

Enjoy Cordoba!

A lot of visuals come to mind when thinking of Madrid. Gorgeous gardens, expansive boulevards, iconic art, and palatial architecture. Madrid is a stately capital city with presence. A layover in Madrid on your way to Morocco is a wonderful way to spend a few hours or more. 

Personally, I have flown through this airport dozens of times and know it well. Overall it’s not too difficult to navigate and most everyone speaks English making communication easy if you get lost or stuck. Do keep in mind the terminals are spread out and require a bus to get between terminals 1/2/3 and 4/4S so plan accordingly.

Staying in the Madrid Airport

If you want to head out into the city, a layover needs to be at least six hours long. If less, staying inside the airport is the best option. There are however plenty of things to do while you wait in the Madrid Barajas airport. 

First, consider purchasing a Priority Pass. Barajas is one of Europe’s busiest and largest airports and escaping the hustle and bustle of traveling for a few moments of tranquility, refreshment and a quick shower during travel is always nice. There are several Priority Pass lounges in Madrid’s airport, one in each terminal.

Every terminal has a play area for children. However, Terminal 4 alone has 7 children’s play areas as well as a baby care area. In addition to a play area for children there are also family security checkpoints for travelers with young children in each of the terminals.

If you’re traveling with family and looking for meaningful activities to engage kids there is an ongoing exhibition in every terminal called, “Children’s Artistic Impressions of Flight.” Barajas airport hosts a large number of ongoing visits from local schools and children’s cultural centers and invites children to draw what they see around them in the airport. It makes for a personable and child-friendly gallery and is a great way to spend some of your layover. 

One other point worth noting. If you are traveling with small children and gate checked your stroller there is a very good possibility that you will need to go to the baggage claim to pick up your stroller. This means you will need to carry your child to this point – sometimes quite a long distance. You will then need to proceed out of the terminal and to check back in. If you do not have a passport that allows you to leave the terminal for a connection you need to make this point when checking in and also at the gate when you deplane to get your stroller delivered to the gate.

T4 has both a chapel and a mosque for those seeking a space for religious or spiritual reflection. If you’re traveling for work, T4 also has a convenient business center. 

There is free WIFI throughout Madrid’s airport though it can be spotty at times.

Need to relax? Elysium Travel Spa features a full-service menu of services to help you relax before your next leg of your journey. Lotions, cleansers and other products in travel sizes are available for purchase for the rest of your journey. 

Where and What to Eat in Barajas Airport

There’s a wide selection of restaurants, bars, cafes and specialty food stores in the Madrid airport. 

Vinea carries an impressive selection of wines by the glass along with tapas, charcuterie plates, pâtés, and canapés.

It’s painfully easy to eat empty, unhealthy food when traveling. Natural Break is a quick cafe that helps provide nutritious sandwiches, soups and juices. 

If you’re looking for a chance to experience upscale Mediterranean food in a high-end environment,  try El Madroño right outside of terminal four. If you’re looking for a true break from the din of the airport, they have private dining rooms available.  On this note, there are quite a few restaurants that serve smaller portions of good quality food scattered throughout the airport.

You’ll also find fast food staples like Burger King and McDonald’s throughout the airport.

Deli&Cia is where we usually stop to pick up a bocadillo patata (bread stuffed with a Spanish omelette), they have good take away sandwiches if you’re just looking to grab and go.

Visiting the city of Madrid on a Layover

Madrid’s airport is 18 km away from the city center. There are plenty of different options to choose from to get there. Before you leave the airport though, you may want to consider checking and storing your luggage at the Left Luggage Office.

The fee depends on the length of time you’ll be gone. This is near the arrivals area of Terminals 1, 2 or 4. (Pro tip: leave your luggage in the terminal you’re departing out of – if different – so that you are in the right spot when you return).

If you don’t want to waste any time at all consider taking a private shuttle. Even if your flight is delayed, your driver will continue waiting for you so as not to throw another wrench in your travel plans. Additionally, if you have a lot of luggage or are traveling as a group, your driver will assist you with your load. 

If you’d prefer to take public transportation, Metro Line 8 connects all airport Terminals with Nuevos Ministerios station in central Madrid. From there you can easily change to another line to reach Sol Station and the city center. Another option is to take the Renfe Line C1 from Terminal 4. You’re able to switch lines and head to the city center using this route as well. 

What to do in Madrid

There’s so much to do in Madrid!

It is truly a capitol city. The architecture is regal, varied and stunning and there is so much to choose from in terms of culture in particular. Madrid’s Prado Museum is world-renowned boasting works of art by Goya, Velázquez and El Greco. It’s a must visit! Purchase this direct entry ticket and advance, skip the line that is always there and make the most of your time during your layover. 

For soccer fans and sports aficionados, no trip to Madrid would be complete without a trip to the Real Madrid Bernabéu Stadium. If you’re lucky you can catch a game but if it’s off season, consider taking this tour instead. You’ll learn about the history of both the stadium and the team, walk around the pitch, visit the dressing rooms and relive the glory moments of Real Madrid history. 

A hop on hop off double decker bus tour is a fun way to take in the sights in Madrid. Choose a 1 or 2 day ticket, set your own itinerary and explore the city sights at your own pace. When onboard, you’ll hear audio commentary about Madrid’s sights such as plazas, museums and theaters. This tour includes a map and a guidebook to help you get around.

Are you a foodie at heart? Like to “eat your way” through a new destination? Consider a food tour with Devour Madrid. Some of the most popular tours feature tapas and wine tasting, history and taverns, tapas and flamenco tours, and general Spanish cuisine tours. If traveling with a group you can book a private tour as well.

Overnight Layover in Madrid

If you’re wondering if it’s possible to sleep in Madrid’s airport terminals the answer is yes, however not very comfortably. You will need to have an onward boarding pass for the next day if you are spending the night. Also the lights are kept on all night and there are few (if any) spots that have chairs without arm rests. The floor is likely your best bet and it is nearly all hard, cold tile.

The Sala VIP Cibeles Lounge in Terminal 1 (airside – accepts Priority Pass) and Premium Travellers Arrival Lounge Terminal 4 (landside) both are open 24 hours and while there’s no sleep facilities specifically it may be a quieter and easier spot to rest. You can pay to enter both.

There are plenty of hotel options that are either at the airport or very close to it. Trust me – I’ve tried many of these options! A few hotels we like include the following. Many of the airport hotels now have free airport to hotel shuttle service saving you a bit of money as typical taxi fare is about 30€.

Hotels Near Barajas Airport

Axor Feria and Axor Barajas

This is our go to airport hotel. The rooms are always clean and they have family rooms available so we can all stay in the same room. Usually rooms are under $100 a night but can depend on the season and how busy things are. Note, there is an on-site restaurant but it can be pricy. We usually pick up something from the airport terminal to have for dinner and breakfast.

There are two properties next to each other. The Feria property tends to be slightly less expensive but quality wise there are no big differences.

Tryp Madrid Alameda Aeropuerto Hotel

Just under 5km from the airport this hotel has several room configurations including room for families with up to 3 children in a single room. They offer an airport shuttle for a surcharge as well as having onsite dining available. A covered swimming pool is a bonus so you can take a swim anytime of year. The rooms are clean and minimalistic – just what you need for a calm overnight sleep.

Ibis Madrid Barajas

If you’re on a tighter budget, the Ibis might be the hotel to consider. It’s just 1 km from the airport and provides a free shuttle service. The rooms are smaller but well appointed. If you’re traveling alone or as a couple it’s a good option however their largest room only sleeps 3 so for larger families it may not be ideal.

Crowne Plaza Madrid Airport

This is a new go to for us when the Axor is booked. It is a little further away from the airport however they provide complimentary shuttle service. A buffet breakfast is available in the mornings as well as lunch and dinner in their on-site restaurant.

Hilton Madrid Airport hotel

The one big bonus of this hotel is not only does it have free shuttle service to and from the airport but to the city center (during select times of year) as well, making it even easier to explore the city when you’re on a layover. The amenities include everything you’d expect from a Hilton property. An onsite restaurant and tapas bar are available with rooms that sleep up to 4 people.

Ceuta (Spanish) or Sebta (Arabic) is a Spanish city that is located on the mainland of Morocco. It is approximately 75 kilometers from Tangier, Morocco. The city has a tax free status making it particularly interesting to those in industry who can use it as a base; and it is a large shipping port. It’s also a very busy location for foot traffic as Moroccans who have access to cross carry back goods to be resold in Morocco as anything they can carry is tax free entering Morocco.

An interesting fact is that since 2010 Ceuta and Melilla have declared Eid al Adha a public holiday; the first time a Muslim holiday has been officially celebrated by Spain since the Reconquista. 

The population is Spanish speaking however most also speak Darija (the Moroccan Arabic dialect) as well as Berber and French. 

Weatherwise Ceuta is a great destination. The temperatures in Ceuta average between 17C and 28C year round with minimal rain. Winter months are colder with more chances for rain. 

All About Ceuta

The northern area of Morocco was once part of Spain’s colonial territorial holdings and while much of the territory was returned to Moroccan sovereignty in the mid 20th century the cities of Ceuta and Melilla were not. The city has been out of Moroccan control since the 1400’s changing hands from the Portuguese to the Spanish. 

The Rif War is the most recent violent dispute between Morocco and Spain in the region. Berber factions from the Rif area began confronting Spanish workers in the region around 1909 and there followed years of attempts by Spain to pacify the area. From 1920-1927, immediately following the signing of the Treaty of Fez that gave Spain control of the area armed conflict broke out. The conflict only ended once the French also got involved in 1925. 

(For more on this war check out the books The Betrothed of Death: The Spanish Foreign Legion During the Rif Rebellion, 1920-1927 and Deadly Embrace: Morocco and the Road to the Spanish Civil War. If you’re more visually inclined the Netflix series Morocco: Love in Time of War happens during this time period. 

Morocco has long asserted the city should belong to Morocco and has pushed for its return however this has largely fallen on deaf ears.

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The city is regularly featured on the news as many migrants attempting to make it from Morocco but more commonly from other African nations have used Ceuta as a crossing point by scaling the border walls. Morocco and Spain have attempted to crack down on this practice with Moroccan police apprehending those attempting to cross and those who are able to cross effectively stuck in Ceuta until their amnesty or asylum cases are processed. 

Ceuta has a long history that has been peppered with conquests and takeovers, making it an interesting location to visit. While it is Spanish it has a different feel from other cities in mainland Spain. 

Getting to Ceuta and Getting Around Ceuta

For those visiting or living in Morocco a trip to Ceuta is quite easy to make. From Tangier there are buses and taxis that can take you to Fnideq and the land crossing. There are ferries that run from mainland Spain to Ceuta daily. 

Crossing from Morocco to Ceuta in Fnideq

You can cross at this point on foot or via automobile. Whichever route you choose you should be prepared for the process of crossing an international border. 

For those crossing by automobile you should be prepared to wait for an extended time at the border. During busy times (especially the beginning and end of the summer holiday season) the wait can be several hours to a full day depending on when you arrive. Keep in mind the city is small so bringing in a vehicle for a short time may not be the best route. 

If you have a vehicle with Moroccan license plates, you need to check with your insurance company to get the green visa that lets your car through and remain covered. I have heard mixed reports of needing this so it’s best to check before you go. If you plan to use the ferry to cross to mainland Spain with your vehicle you will for sure need the car visa. 

Crossing by foot is considerably faster and easier than by car. You can park your car in Fnideq or take a taxi to the border. From here you simply get in line to go through the immigration point. You will see a lot of Moroccans congregated around the entrance to cross, many if not most of these people are those that cross back and forth the border all day hauling goods. They typically allow you to pass them in line. 

You do need to fill out the Moroccan “landing card” the same as you would have encountered at the airport on arrival in the country. They are readily available at the border so if someone tries to “sell” them to you at any point don’t buy. Once you get to the entry line you’ll go to a window box to give the immigration officer your passport and white card (as well as residency card if you’re a Moroccan resident). They rarely ask questions and usually stamp you through. 

At this point you’ll walk approximately 300 meters through a corridor that is at least 5 meters tall until you reach the Spanish border. The Spanish immigration police are not seated but standing at the entrances and typically take a quick look at your passport and stamp and let you through. They don’t stamp your passport. 

You’re now in Ceuta!

Can Moroccans cross to Ceuta without a Spanish visa?

Yes and no – but in most cases no. Moroccan citizens that live near Ceuta are granted special passes that allow them to cross. Chances are they will know if they are eligible for this pass if they live nearby. In most cases however, Moroccan citizens will need a Spanish visa to enter Ceuta. 

Getting from la frontera (the border) to the city

Once you’re across you have three options to get to the city center. 

1. Walk. Yes you can walk there but it’s a long walk with mostly direct sun all the way. Unless you’re on a huge budget or like to walk avoid this.
2. The bus. There is a bus stop just outside the exit point of the Spanish border. It comes fairly regularly and costs €0.80 each way. You do need to have euros on hand as they won’t take Moroccan dirham. If you haven’t planned ahead for this then there are men who stand near this area and will exchange dirham to euro but at a less than great rate. The bus drops off 
3. A taxi. Getting a taxi right at the border are hit or miss depending on how heavy traffic is exiting Spain. A taxi from the border to the city costs approximately €8. If you don’t find one right away begin walking towards the city and chances are you can grab one that’s turning around to head back. 

Returning to cross back to Morocco

Both taxi and bus are options to return however taxis are the easiest to find and take back. Don’t be surprised if you end up in a long line once you get to the border. It’s fairly standard for the driver to have you get out well ahead of the crossing if there’s a back up so be prepared to walk some. When hailing a taxi simply tell them “la frontera” and they will return you to the border.

Your documents will not be checked by Spanish authorities when you are leaving however they will be by the Moroccans. As you exit you will need to have another white landing card filled out and presented. You will see many people that walk past the small window that serves as passport control.

The  Moroccans that have access and live on the border do not have to show their documents each time however you will need to do this. You must present the landing card and your passport on exit and get a stamp. If you miss this checkpoint there will be a police officer further up that turns you back. 

This portion of the crossing can be a lot of walking, so if you have done any shopping while in Ceuta be prepared to carry everything with you for about 1 km. 

Entering via the ferry port

There is no bus that runs from the port to the city so you should be prepared to get a taxi. It’s only about a 15 minute walk to reach the city center from the port so a perfectly do-able walk as well. 

Getting around Ceuta

There is an internal bus system in the city that is fairly easy to navigate. You also can walk most of the areas, especially in the city center. Finally taxis are readily available and not very expensive to use. 

What to do in Ceuta

The Arab Baths of Ceuta

Built between the 12th and 13th centuries as a public bathhouse. The remains have been largely reconstructed however done so as close to their original form as possible. 

The Royal Walls of Ceuta

These fortifications were believed to have been started in the 5th century but what is seen today was strengthened and built upon during the Portuguese reign. There is a museum called Museo de los Muralles Reales that houses temporary art exhibitions.

Museo de Ceuta

This free museum tells the story of Ceuta through history and archeology. The museum is only a few rooms but holds many artifacts dating from Roman times through the Rif war. It also regularly holds temporary exhibits. 

Churches at the Plaza Africa

The plaza itself is rather uninspiring but there are two churches located on the plaza. The Cathedral and the Church of Our Lady of Africa. Both stand on sites that were once mosques. Both are open to the public at various times of the day. 

House of Dragons

This building was completed in 1905 and might be one of the most recognizable buildings in Ceuta due to the bronze dragons that flank the exterior. It is known as a great example of eclectic architecture. The original dragons were removed in 1925 and lost and it wasn’t until 2006 that new dragons were installed. 

Hercules Statue 

On the seafront of Ceuta this massive sculpture represents Hercules straddling the Straits of Gibralter. 

Mercado Central

Just as in all Spanish cities the central market is an important part of daily life. The market opens at 8am and shuts down by 3pm so it’s best to visit in the morning. This is a great video (in Spanish) about the market, even if you don’t understand Spanish the imagery is great.

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Beaches in Ceuta

There are several beaches that can be found in Ceuta. Along the southern bay of Ceuta is the La Ribera Beach and El Chorrillo Beach both are located near the city center and are blue flag certified beaches for quality and safety. Benzu Beach and Calamocarro beach are in the northern bay and have cooler water and rougher gravel beaches. Benitez beach is popular with people that live nearby and has a mix of sand and pebbles. 

If you’d rather not hit the beach but want a pool day the Mediterranean Maritime Park located close to the port is a good option. It has salt water pools, green spaces, restaurants, a casino, night club and more. Entry price varies depending on season but is approximate €5 per person. 

Shopping in Ceuta

Shopping is one of the big reasons people visit Ceuta, especially coming from Morocco. Ceuta is a duty free zone! While mainland Spain has a 21% VAT on goods in Ceuta VAT does not apply and instead their local tax is only 5-10% depending on the product. 

Through the downtown area Calle Camoens Street is a pedestrian street with brand name stores of all types. You’ll also find stores like Spanish department store giant El Corte Ingles and Carrefour in Ceuta. 

Eating in Ceuta

There are quite a few restaurants in Ceuta, mostly mom and pop type places which is fantastic. You’ll find both Spanish and Moroccan restaurants and those that are a bit of both. I’ve never been disappointed with food but have yet to have a really stand out experience. Below are a few places that we’ve tried and liked. 

Your best bet in Ceuta is to order seafood, it’s what they specialize in. We also always order mosto which is a great Analusian drink if you don’t drink alcohol – it’s essentially grape juice but the taste is wonderful and a treat as usually you can only find it in mainland Spain. 

Restaurant Parador – The restaurant itself is slightly dated but the food is basic and ok. It’s not out of this world but especially if you’re traveling with children we found it to be an “easy” meal to take in. 

Pasteleria La Africana – Not a restaurant but a bakery that has a selection of Spanish bakery items. Try the little doughnuts (usually on the top counter) that are studded with ane. 

El Bistro de George – Spanish and Mediterranean flavors for a little more upscale dining experience. The owner also speaks English if you’re worried about ordering in Spanish at other places. 

El Pescador – If you want a good meal with great views this is the place to consider. They serve plenty of seafood as well as tapas. Perfect for either lunch, snacks or dinner.

Where to Stay in Ceuta

Most anywhere you book in Ceuta will be relatively close to where you want to be. Here are a few suggestions if you’re planning to spend the night. 

Hotel Ulises

Located close to Ribera Beach and has an outdoor swimming pool if you’d rather not hit the waves. The rooms are also a good size and include air conditioning. A typical Spanish breakfast is provided with plenty of restaurants and other shopping nearby.

Hostal Plaza Ruiz

Close to the bus stop for buses coming from the border, this is a basic hotel that is clean and will fit the bill for travelers on a budget that want to stay over in Ceuta. 

Hercules Boutique Hotel

This boutique hotel is beautifully decorated and well situated. If you’ll be bringing a vehicle there is nearby public parking. There are two beaches nearby and some rooms have a water view. Plus free drinks and snacks in the room!

Airbnb

There are quite a few listings on Airbnb too which is not a bad option in a small area like Ceuta.

Related Destination Guides:

If you’re planning to be near Ceuta than you can easily visit Tetouan and Tangier – both of which are within easy driving distance.

Tangier Destination Guide

Tetouan Destination Guide