“There is no night life in Spain. They stay up late but they get up late. That is not night life. That is delaying the day.” – Ernest Hemingway
If you ask me where to find the best tapas in Seville, you should be prepared to hear me list of a litany of tiny bars and restaurants that are as clear as day in my mind – but – you'll struggle to find them. For a first time visitor Seville can be dizzying.
The layout of the city is not unlike the layout in Moroccan cities giving us a bit of an advantage. Winding streets leading to another but never intersecting. One restaurant that looks so much like the next. But I assure you the reward is worth the journey.
I have no problem spending a half day searching for the very best things to eat but I also know not everyone is like me. Instead you want to be taken right to the best foods. I don't blame you, sometimes that's all I want too.
If you're short on time, unsure where to start, or just want to eat great things then we highly recommend you check out the Devour Seville Food Tour. When we were in Barcelona last year we did their Gracia neighborhood tour with our kids and it was a no-brainer to take another food tour when in Seville. Food tours are the best way to discover local foodie gems!
MarocBaba and I signed up for the nighttime Tapas, Taverns, and History tour. We met our guide at the famous Parasol or Mushroom statue (whatever you want to call it!) and took off from there. We spent all night talking, eating and learning about the history of the city. We had never done a Seville walking tour on our previous visit so this was interesting. We were with only one other couple – my guess is because it was January and tourism is low at that time of year.
Where are the best tapas in Seville?
I think they're in the small restaurants owned by families. This tour only reinforced that. We stopped at five different places and ate something different in each. There was only one stop that we had heard about beforehand and it was Bar el Comerico famous for its churros y chocolat, which will rank as one of my very favorite things I've eaten while traveling. We didn't eat them on the tour but went back another day. Instead the group had jamon iberico and we had tortilla.
When we travel we try not to make a big deal over our food restrictions (no pork, no alcohol and no gluten for MarocBaba). We're happy to skip what we can't eat. Devour Seville completely accommodated us and we never went hungry.
The first four stops were smaller bites of food and I started to wonder by the time we got to the last restaurant. But, I was not let down. The final stop on the tour just might be the best restaurant in Seville. It was a sit down restaurant in a building that you could feel history oozing from the walls.
The staff was incredible and took extra care knowing of MarocBaba's allergy. I was so impressed. When the food came out my jaw dropped. The food was Moorish – an amazing mix of Spanish and North African cuisines. It tasted so familiar and yet had a twist.
I have no doubt it may have been the food served in the Alhambra centuries ago. Oxtail and potatoes, seared tuna with salmorejo, eggs with codfish and so much more. The tour is worth it if only to discover this place!
The Devour Seville food tour is about four hours long and includes 5 food stops as well as drink pairings. If you do drink alcohol you may find this tour even more enjoyable. We learned a lot about alcohol production, history and more just listening. Each stop had the option of something different to try. We stuck with soda and mosto (you should totally try this non-alcoholic grape juice of sorts) so you won't feel left out if you don't drink. There is also a late morning/afternoon tour that has several more stops.
When you visit, don't hesitate to book this tour!