I've been wanting to write this post before we even moved to Morocco and now, almost 5 months after we've moved, I think I can do the topic justice. How I first thought of this was when we were preparing our boxes to be shipped here. While this was going on we had some other legal paperwork that needed to be dealt with before the move, and then some other issues with getting everything ready in our apartment. It felt like every corner we turned there was another surprise. Fun houses really aren't all that fun.
Would it be a giant distortion mirror?
An ugly clown popping out of a dark corner?
Maybe a maze that is impossible to find your way out of unless you go back out the same way you came in?
At one point it felt like it could be anything you can imagine popping up as an obstacle, has happened. Let's go waaaay back to the beginning.
Our oldest son needed a new passport before we moved, and due to some legal paperwork (that we had started in April) we needed to complete, we had to expedite the passport. Time was ticking and a week before we were supposed to leave I got a call from passport services that they needed some additional documentation. I immediately had this sent in and then heard nothing. Four days before we were supposed to leave there was still no word and no passport. We lived about 2 hours from the closest district passport office and needed to know if we should go and supply the information again and push for an overnight passport. I spent several hours on the phone until finally I was able to get through. I was told that everything was fine and that they'd be FedEx'ing the passport overnight. (Yes a federal agency had to use FedEx because the US postal service couldn't get us the passport fast enough – I find this highly ironic). So in the end everything was fine but it came right down to the wire.
The packing of our house and belongings was stressful, as we needed to put things in storage, sell things, decide what was going in the boxes for ocean shipping, and what would go in our suitcases. Everything was done on time and we made it to the airport and onto the plane. We flew from Chicago to New York, then New York to Casablanca before connecting to Marrakech. Our flight from New York was delayed, having us arrive in Casablanca late and missing our connection. Once we got to Marrakech (about 10 hours later than scheduled), of course 4 of our 8 bags were missing. Thankfully they showed up the next day.
We knew that the apartment we would be living in at MarocBaba's mom's was unfurnished, but I guess I had a different idea of what unfurnished meant. It literally had nothing, aside from a bed for each of the kids, a bed for us and a refrigerator. I had not anticipated (or budgeted) for this. So let the buying begin – and it went on and on and on. Now we've only got a few more items to get to finish furnishing the house. Some days I feel like it won't ever end.
If you remember, we had sent our boxes to Morocco at the end of July, expecting them to take 6-8 weeks to arrive, which would have been a few weeks after we arrived. That date came and went and no boxes. Around the 6 week mark I received word from the shipping company that they would be shipping out in the next few days, once we paid our final total. Our initial quote was for 12 – 40 gallon tote boxes at $1200. We only ended up sending 6 – 45 gallon totes. We were told our final total would be sent to us before final shipment occurred, because they needed the actual boxes to charge the right amount. We paid a 50% deposit, and so anticipated that our total would be about $200-300 more. We were wrong, it was $700 more. I had told the representative the number of boxes I was sending, and he quoted the price in square feet. When I reviewed the contract I guess I didn't realize this, or looked over it as we had never talked in square footage. We were really shocked but at that point there was nothing we could do. Our things were sitting on a pallet in New Jersey and we were in Morocco. We could have abandoned everything, but they really had us over a barrel, so we forked over the money.
It would be several more weeks until our things arrived. But we weren't through the fun house yet….
A friend of ours had used the same company when they moved to Morocco a few weeks ahead of us, and thankfully walked us through the process they experienced. Morocco charges an import tax on goods, but apparently if you get a certificate from your embassy or consulate that changes your residency to Morocco you don't have to pay it. I'm not sure how it works but I know it did work. We made an appointment with the US Consulate in Casablanca for the morning we would go to get our boxes and were able to very easily change residency.
Our very long day in Casablanca, not my favorite place but love the architecture.
Visiting the consulate was interesting. I had gone once when MarocBaba went for his visa interview, but I wasn't allowed in. First, the consulate is like a fortress – seriously. You can barely see it behind the planter barricades. There are armed Moroccan police men outside, and secured entrances – really not welcoming. After showing our appointment letters and passports we were allowed to enter the US Citizen entrance. We were met by a metal detector and xray belt and about 5 guards. We were not allowed to bring phones or electronics in, and had to leave them with the guards. No where else in Morocco, would I ever do this because I would be kissing my electronics goodbye, but I assumed that this was a legit operation and I would see them again. MarocBaba has a Nike Fit watch and the guards even wanted to take that because they thought it was some type of USB. This was all in an exterior building from the consulate, but once we were cleared we entered the main consulate. American citizen services were to the left and non-citizen services to the right. Thank God we went left because we were 2 of 4 people there. To the right? 50 people at least, waiting for visa interviews. It was very fast and easy to fill out the paperwork, pay the $50 fee, and get back the residency change. The consular officer made sure to tell us we needed to register online as US Citizens living overseas so they could find us if some unrest or natural disaster happened. She was very adamant about this which was slightly unsettling. The most disappointing part for me? I had waited to go to the bathroom over 2 hours assuming that the bathroom here would be nice, at least up to American standards – I was wrong, it was disgusting and didn't have toilet paper – which is normal in most Moroccan bathrooms but I expected more. Come on Uncle Sam, the least you can do is give me a toilet I can be proud of!
Paper in hand we made our way to the office of the shipping company. This is the “hand off” company, the US company ships items on their ships, to foreign ports where the actual boxes are handled by a partner company. Of course this part wasn't included in the shipping fees, which we didn't realize beforehand. So, we had to pay close to $200 more to release our boxes. This office was in Casablanca proper but no where near the port. Another friend had given us a ride to the office and offered us a ride to the port. It felt like every turn we made was wrong and after more than 30 minutes we finally found the place. She and I waited in the car while MarocBaba sorted things out. I really thought this would be done quickly.
If you try to do anything in Morocco after lunch (so 2:30pmish) it's like pulling teeth. I have no idea why but no one wants to do their job, and will give every reason in the book why you have to come back tomorrow. Tomorrow wasn't going to work. MarocBaba spent close to 2 hours convincing them to get the boxes, sort things out with the customs agent, and arrange a truck to take our things back to Marrakech. After 30 minutes of arguing, he pulled out his American passport, and miraculously things started happening. Advice: in situations like this, it's really sometimes better to use your “foreingn-ness,”because it usually means better treatment. The truck to bring everything was another $100 (so if you're keeping track we've spent about $1600 just on fees related to these boxes at this point). We spent several hours in a small truck with a large Moroccan man who drove so slow I thought we'd never get back. Boy was I glad to unpack my pillows, sheets, and comforters.
Then there was registering the kids for school…
Furnishing our apartment….
Applying for my residency card….
Buying a car…. (by the way many people have asked about shipping cars. We didn't do this but if you're looking check out this company for shipping quotes).
But those are for another time, and each deserves it's own post, you know just in case you ever decided you want to try moving here too. As you can see this has been anything but straightforward. There's a lot of trial and error. There's a lot of waiting, anger, and frustration but through it all I've learned some important life lessons.
First, you never know what's going to pop up in front of you, and it will. Be prepared for all scenarios. I felt like I should have run a risk analysis on everything ahead of time.
Second, patience, patience, patience. Oh and did I mention patience?
Lastly, when you move somewhere new, set a budget and than double it. The start up costs to build a new life are more than you probably think.
That'll be 3 tickets, please.
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laila says
Hi Amanda, I’m a Moroccan living in the US for nearly 3 years. I grew up in Europe though, but I recognize what you’re writing about Morocco. I don’t consider it complaining, it’s how things are and Moroccans know that as well. They often joke about it.
I also had to adjust and I’m still adjusting, to living here in the US. Sometimes I find myself complaining about things. I guess it’s all part of moving to a different country.
Chris Eddy says
Thank you Amanda,
YOUR post Is genuine, honest avd duscribes your experience as an American moving to a new country with a new culture.
I find your blog informative and helpful.
I do not see why other writers see it as a complaint.
Matter fact I went exactly through the same exact thing you duscribed but after 5 years I got home sick and got back to NJ. Though I stil own my home in Casablanca center ville which Is vacant except when I busy now for few days each year. After all from NYC it us only 6 hours direct flight to Casablanca, Same distance and time as flying from NYC to California. Many people think that Morocco is so far away when in fact it is very close to the USA.
Nina says
Hi Amanda,
Your blog is fantastic. You are providing so much real (italics missing here!) information which one is free to read, to take, to ignore, to share, to add to, to find out about personally and to tweak to fit their own experience if they so wish, all of these helpful, humorous and useful advice and stories you take time out to share, give such a depth and texture to what the real experience of moving specifically, here, to Morocco, but applies to nearly anywhere, is like. Try moving from the States to the UK or to Italy or to France, and brace for the many big and little daily culture shocks, the aggravations, the comparisons with ‘well, back home, WE” or “back in the US, WE have blah blah blah…” (inevitable and so human!) yet these are Western countries very close in lifestyle and culture and politics to the US generally speaking, yet… not so easy… So, those complaining about the blog – how about starting your own? Amanda, you owe no apologies to anyone for what you choose to write about. The fact is, this is a public service blog which I, and many others clearly, thoroughly enjoy and thank you. Bonne continuation ma chère!
Jo says
Good advice here and shows the reality of the situation – the many bureaucratic hurtles expats and immigrants face everywhere when moving abroad. Its good you keep a sense of humor! And stress patience!
Lisa says
Love this! I’m always referring to moving abroad as a fairground ride.
We are almost neighbours and I hope to visit with my son in the next year. I will be in touch 🙂
Abou chouaib says
Salam Amanda
Thank you for sharing experience I’m Moroccan living in usa with my wife and 3kids
We’re planing to live in morocco next year my old daughter is a second grader
I wonder if we can put her in Moroccan school did your kids had any difficulties there for catching French
Amanda Mouttaki says
They actually have had an easier time with French than Arabic. I think the younger they are the easier it is.
Gwendolyn J says
Salams hun, I am looking into the possibility of moving at the end of 2016 to Casablanca. No kids in tow, thank goodness… but I know the ride will be interesting should I go through with it. And Yes, Patience and money! No the apartments in Morocco are empty shells, I was surprised to hear you got beds and a refrigerator – wow you lucked out. My ex-sister-inlaws did not even have a water heater, much less a refrigerator or stove top.
I am looking forward to the adventure ahead..
Richard says
Hi Marocmama Amanda,
I thank you a lot for your efforts on doing this web. Maybe a lot of people don’t realize how helpful it is. Sharing your experiences give us an insight of aspects that we never thought before.
I’m thinking myself in moving to Maroc. I’m from Uruguay and wanted to have some information about getting the resident card. I lived in Argentina, USA, Egypt and Israel. I am a finance professor. I will need to learn french and arabic.
I have enough income to live without work now (not in costly countries).
I would really appreciated your suggestions.
Regards and Thank you again!
Amanda Mouttaki says
Hi Richard – I’ve written a post on this you can find in the archives. The issue may be proving you can support yourself and typically residency has specific conditions such as marriage to a Moroccan or a work contract.
Nina says
Hi Amanda,
Am in the middle of my own move to Marrakech just now. Very curious about what the legal steps were with respect to US citizen changing residence. Did you have to fill out any documentation with any US authority here in the States or did you guys just up and move? You are welcome to respond to my personal email.
Thank you.
Amanda Mouttaki says
I’m going to respond here in case someone else might come along and want the answer as well! You don’t have to fill out any paperwork when you leave, nor truly when you live here BUT you can go to the US Consulate and fill out a change of residency paper (it’s $50). They then have a record of you living abroad which may help when it comes to taxes etc. You don’t need an appointment, you can just walk in and do it whenever you’re in Casablanca. It’s good because they have a record of you and where you should they need to find you (natural disaster/emergency etc).
abdel says
I find it very informative and honest description of events
thank you very much
yasmine says
Salam Amanda !
I wanted to ask who shipped your stuff with from the US to Morocco? I’m planing on shipping my bikes there . is it really hard?
thanks
yasmine.
Amanda Mouttaki says
We used International Van Lines. Honestly – look at the cost of bringing it on the airplane with you (assuming you mean a pedal bike) because I wouldn’t ship my things via container again.
Layla says
I agree with Fatiha. This blog do sound negative, I’m not sure if there are any others that speaks of the culture, life in general. As someone who lived and traveled in other countries and many cities in the US, I can tell you, even here (Southern California) was a culture shock from NYC. I can easily describe it as Chicago to Morocco culture shock. I guess my point is, if you move from America to anywhere in the world, you must leave your American mentality behind, otherwise you woul lead a miserable life. Morocco is definitely not as business oriented as The US, businesses close for 2 hours lunch, even longer for privately owned businesses. You could even see a sign at the door with store hours but it doesn’t mean anything. Here is a tip regarding the TP, just carry a roll in your purse, problem solved.
Amanda Mouttaki says
It is negative. Of course there is culture shock everywhere when you move somewhere new. This is MY personal experience and frustrations. Not everything about moving to and living in a new culture is wonderful. But I disagree you leave your mentality behind. There will always be struggles when you move somewhere new and I think you have to recognize what those challenges are so that you can move past them. It’s not as simple as saying oh just forget about your life and experiences up to that point. I always aim to be honest and candid with my audience. I want them to understand the real challenges and issues that come up not just the magical sugar coated version of moving and life.
John G says
Thank you, we appreciate your honesty. Having lived in Colombia for several years, I know the routine very well.
My Moroccan wife and I are leaving USA after 9 years marriage and moving to Tangier. My wife is not familiar with Tangier as she is from Marakeche. We don’t want any family intrusions, we want to live on a rural farm alone, plus much cooler in the north. I need a residence card and we need to ship some belongings including a vehicle. It has been informative so far and I will check out your residence blog now.
Alyson says
We’ve been there too, we emigrated to Australia. There were disasters along the way, plenty of them.
joy says
Dear Amanda,What a great site!!!I am looking to retire to Morocco and find your frankness of your move a great insight as to what and hat not to do. I hope you don”t mind if I ask dumb questions!
Taryn says
Hello Amanda!
First, thank you for writing about all of your experiences–I’ve enjoyed reading about your journey to actually living in (not just visiting as I have done) Morocco!
Second, I was wondering if you wouldn’t mind answering a technical question for me: I’m an American citizen (born in the US) and my now-husband came over on a fiance visa. We’ve done all of the required paperwork up until now–he just got his 10-year, non-conditional green card last year. He can apply to become an American citizen this year which we’d both like him to do. I remember reading somewhere that he has to get permission (for lack of a better word) from the Moroccan consulate to become a US citizen in order for the Moroccan government to recognize his dual citizenship. Did your husband have to do this?
Also, I was reading about the two male witnesses to register a wedding. We had no other Moroccan citizens attend our wedding (we were married in the US and to get visas for any of his family to attend would have been impossible on such short notice). Does this mean we can’t even attempt to register our marriage?
If you wouldn’t mind giving me the benefit of your experience and wisdom, I would certainly appreciate it.
Thanks!
Taryn
Amanda Mouttaki says
Hi Taryn – emailed you!
John G says
Amanda we have the same question as we were married in the USA 10 years ago with no witnesses. My wife has a 10 year residence card. I want to make sure there are no surprises with my residence in Morocco prior to leaving.
Amanda Mouttaki says
If your wife is a Moroccan citizen than she is fine moving and staying in Morocco as long as desired. If you had no witnesses, than you’ll likely need to get “remarried” in the presence of an adoul at the courthouse. I would advise you to get a lawyer as soon as you get to Morocco and begin the paperwork process. It’s possible to have your marriage recognized after the fact but it will take some time (and money).
Fatiha says
Hi Maroc Mama
I don’t understand your goal from this blog. Are your trying to teach readers about moroccan cooking or it’s culture. You look like You have complained about every exmperience in morocco, even the toilet paper, why did you leave your country if you are this miserable.
Amanda Mouttaki says
This comment arrived while I was gone for the week and am publishing it late. I wanted to respond. My blog is about food, travel, raising bicultural kids, and now living in Morocco. You may think I’m “complaining” but I am being as honest as I can be with my readers. Also, who said I was miserable? Life here IS different, there are things that are frustrating and irritating. I know many Americans who want to move here, and I do want to show them what life is like.This post specifically talks very little about Morocco as a place, it is talking about how moving here – the actual process – can be frustrating. I’d venture to guess this is true of anywhere. I am not miserable in any way. I have a very nice, comfortable life here. We moved for our children, so that they could learn Arabic and have a relationship with my husband’s family. There are plenty of things I dislike about the US too. But, one thing is for sure I won’t just be writing about sunshine and rainbows here. I aim to be real and authentically share our experience. Good, bad, and ugly.
Anna says
Brings back memories from time I lived in Morocco -although as a student and my university helping with the paperwork it was a bit easier…Now I live in Peru and getting any paperwork done is as difficult in Morocco -but at least I am trained to be patient 🙂