africa

If you’ve ever thought of visiting Rwanda but wondered if there was anything else to do in this African country besides track gorillas, you’re in luck! The good news is there is lots to do. When planning a visit consider some of the cultural activities available to learn a little more about the people and country.

It’s no secret that Rwanda has successfully forged its way to become one of Africa’s most visited safari destinations because of the endangered mountain gorilla safaris which take groups of tourists deep into the misty jungle forest in search of families of gorillas. With gorillas being highlight of all tours in Rwanda, it’s no surprise that the Rwandan government doubled the price of the Rwanda gorilla permit from a previous $750 USD to $1500 USD and offering a 20% discount for visitors spending more time visiting the country; encouraging visitors to explore other wildlife parks and Rwanda’s colorful cultural heritage.

Rwanda has a rich cultural background highlighted by the dark genocide but also visible in the diversity of crafts, dance and strong traditions. Taking a diversion from a Rwandan gorilla tour, can offer you a rewarding opportunity to explore the real face of Rwanda. The effect of the 1994 genocide is still evident in the societies as they forge a future beyond the horrific events. The new government has been very instrumental in promoting peace, reconciliation and togetherness past religious, geographic or ethnic identity in local Rwandan communities.

The People of Rwanda

Rural Rwanda is home to many vibrant communities who live in harmony with their natural surroundings; and these people play an important role in preserving wildlife, culture and history. As one drives through the countryside, you realize that much of Rwanda comprises of green terraced hills, evidence that 90% of Rwandans depend of farming. Agriculture is mostly carried out at subsistence level mainly for home consumption and a small portion for selling in the markets. At every stop through communities, happy faces of children and adults who happily pose for pictures if you ask and welcome you. Village walks offer you home tours, taking part in local food preparation right from lighting firewood until food is ready to eat. Try playing traditional music instruments like inanga, umuduri, ikembe, one stringed-fiddle, or weaving experiences, traditional dance, and grinding sorghum and wheat using a grinding stone. This is the way rural Rwandans live daily.

A visit to ex-poacher communities

Ex-poachers are also known as reformed poachers. They formerly occupied national park areas and solely depended on the forests and wildlife for food. Poaching for bush meat was the order of the day and a way of survival. They have now reformed to conservationists. Learn about their livelihood when you visit their community, how they are pioneering conservation and protect wildlife and their habitat. Share their stories and way of survival after they were evicted from the forest.

Hiking in Rwanda

Rwanda is a mountainous country with numerous hiking opportunities like the Bisoke volcano, Mount Karisimbi, Muhabura volcano, and a number of hikes in local hills. The hike starts from Rusenge centre and leads you to the top of the hill. On your hike you will have a panoramic view of beautiful volcanoes, landscapes, twin lakes (Ruhondo and Burera) interactions with kids at their schools, and people who are doing their daily activities like brick laying and farming.

Biking the Congo Nile Trail

The Congo Nile Trail is one of the longest trails in Rwanda comprises of a 227 kilometer network of dirt trails, single trails, grassy patches, mud tracks, rocky paths and paved roads starting from the hot spring area in Gisenyi along the northern shores of Lake Kivu, through Cyimbiri to Kinunu continuing to Kibuye districts ending south of Lake Kivu, This is a long route, which can be covered in a 10 day comprehensive itinerary, or just visit some areas to fit your time program.

The Congo Nile trail is traversed by biking, driving or choose to walk exploring the beautiful Land of a Thousand hills as you get opportunities to interact with locals along its length. The terrain is up and down hill, then you return back closer to the lake and watch people boating, swimming and playing in the water, others washing in the lake offering you very breathtaking views of rural Rwanda, rolling terraced hills, green coffee plantations. The trail offers you different types vegetation and rural areas deferring from village to village. Rubavu has many coffee fields, while other places had banana fields and others a mixture and some marshy areas.

You thought Kenya was all savanna lands and wild animals didn’t you? But, what you might be surprised to know is that it also has more than 300 miles of coastline on the Indian Ocean. To be honest, I really had no idea that it had such magical beaches and crystal clear water! After we did our safari we decided that to head towards the water to have a bit of a beach stay. K loves swimming and I wanted to see a different side of Kenya. We got that!

Our destination was Diani Beach, a very popular tourist destination for Europeans. We learned very quickly that not many Americans made their way here, we never saw another American for the nearly six days we were visiting. That’s not a bad thing just a fact!

Getting There

The closest big city to Diani is Mombasa, but it is quite a distance, over 70 kilometers. We both flew to Diani and drove to Mombasa. The airstrip is known as Diani Ukunda.

from Mombasa

Cars can be hired privately or from your hotel/accommodation. It was about $75USD one way to get from Diani to Mombasa via a hired car and took about three hours time. The one thing I did like about this was that we were able to see more of the real Kenya. If you’re tight on time this could be a deal breaker as the roads can be crowded and delays can occur.

It’s possible to fly via an airtaxi. If you’re short on time I think this is a great option. We used these to get around other areas. They are slightly more expensive than a car rental but the time savings is great plus, no need to show up early. One hour before your flight will be ok.

from Nairobi or elsewhere

Unless you have a lot of time in Kenya, you’ll want to fly from point to point. We flew from Mombasa to Nairobi on our way home. This route can be easily booked online or through a travel agent. If however you decide to fly via air taxi that should be booked through an agent ahead of time. The flight is only about 40 minutes. Note these flights leave from Nairobi WILSON airport not the international airport.

Where to Go

As I mentioned Diani is a big tourist destination. You will find dozens of hotels and resorts lining the beach. On Diani Beach we stayed at two different resorts; Kinondo Kwetu and The Sands at Nomad. We liked both but I’ll share the pros and cons so that you can make the best decision for yourself or your family.

Kinondo Kwetu

Our first stay was at Kinondo Kwetu and we quickly settled in and felt right at home. One of the benefits of traveling in the off season is there are no crowds. It’s also one of the negatives. Sadly, K didn’t find any other kids to play with during most of our beach time. That meant mom had to bite the bullet! Kinondo Kwetu, like most hotels here is behind tall walls and pretty secluded. We were warned right away about having food in our rooms because..monkeys. Ever look at those pictures of houses in jungle areas that have bars on the windows? That’s not because of robbers, it’s to keep monkeys out. The layout here is open air rooms which is fantastic during the day! You can see the ocean and feel the breezes.

We enjoyed breakfast with ocean views and lunch in a traditional boat that had been converted to a dining space. My favorite feature here? Every night your dinner is somewhere else on the property – there’s no fixed dining room. It’s like a little surprise finding out where they’ve chosen to host it! One night we climbed the big water tower that sits above all the property and had a very special meal! K loved taking a horse ride on the beach. The only issue we had was with mosquitos. One night poor K faced a lot of bites even though we were under a net. This could just have been his bad luck but it is one thing to keep in mind. If you’re prone to mosquito bites pack lots of spray, use it liberally and make sure to close up your room as soon as the sun starts to go down.

What we loved: The family friendly feel, beautiful pools, and really cool mystery dinner idea all were great!

Best for: Families with kids and those wanting seclusion

Hints and Tips: You’ll probably want to boo a full board option here as it’s quite far from anywhere else to eat. If you have plans that take you away from the hotel during the day then you’ll have other choices. 

The Sands at Nomad + Chale Island by Nomad

A quick ride down the road brought us to The Sands at Nomad where we would spend one night before heading to their other property on Chale Island. At first look I wasn’t sure what this hotel was but I was quickly reassured. We had a beach front bugalow with air conditioning. The beach was right outside our window and there were covered lounge chairs to enjoy. The pool was ultra cool with a hollowed center to swim through and comfortable water.

We loved the restaurant here because it had loads of choices and great pizza. The only downside here was the nearby shopkeepers and buskers on the beach. We did end up taking a guy up on his offer to take us out in a boat to see some of the wildlife and go snorkeling. After seeing him pull the mouthpiece for the snorkel out of some murky looking water I fiend sickness and we returned to shore. I wouldn’t recommend doing this, book an excursion directly from the hotel. I also had a run-in with some older teenage boys who wanted to be “my friend”. Nope, no, no way.

What we loved: the restaurant, pool, and air conditioning!

Best for: couples or friends, it was ok traveling with 1 kid but if both + MarocBaba had been with it may not have been the best option.

Hints and Tips: Avoid the salesmen hawking excursions on the beach and alert The Sands security if you feel uncomfortable. 

What to Do

Wondering what to do in Eastern Kenya? Here are a few ideas!

Snorkeling & Scuba – most resorts have scuba and snorkeling options. You can also head to Diving the Crab for lessons and rentals as well as booking tours to dive or snorkel further out.

Swimming – It is the beach after all! The Indian Ocean has crystal clear water and plenty of gorgeous sand beaches to spend your day splashing in the water.

Day Safaris – If you don’t make it to the Masai Mara there are still safaris closer to this area that you can take.

Horseback Riding – Kinondo Kwetu offered this onsite but I am sure there are other places that have it as well if you decide to stay somewhere else.

What you will notice here is there are not a lot of cultural activities. We found it really hard to interact with locals. There were excursions to a fisherman village offered from The Sands and maybe if I would have dug deeper the opportunities would have been there. I didn’t feel comfortable going outside the resorts alone as they were quite a walk from any shops or roadside restaurants.

You also should plan to have cash on hand if you’ll want it to buy anything. At the resorts it’s fine to charge but everything else works on a cash basis. There were no ATMs’s nearby and it would have been a $20-$30 taxi ride to the nearest ATM for money.

If you’re thinking of visiting eastern Kenya we hope this post gives you some ideas!

I love to read books about the places I am going either before or after I arrive. But, I didn’t have much time before we went to Kenya. I loved the country so much that I voraciously read whatever I could find after to relive the moments and see how others experienced this magical place. These are a few titles that I enjoyed.  

    

Circling the Sun – Paula McLain

I found this book in a bookstore at Heathrow airport on our return from Kenya. It’s set in colonial Kenya and I love the fiery female main character. It has a great story that reads quick and easy. You’ll be able to imagine all of the places the author describes as soon as you see them on your travels. Pair it with the next book whose author makes an appearance in this novel! 
 

  Out of Africa – Isak Dinesan

This is considered a classic piece of literature. The author managed a coffee plantation for nearly two decades in Kenya from 1914 to 1931. It’s also a movie that no doubt you’ve heard of, if not seen. You might bristle at the language and the way the author refers to local Kenyans in the writing, but it’s worth remembering the sentiments and behavior of the time. This is a short book (under 250 pages) and fairly easy read. 

 

 

One Day I Will Write About This Place – Binyavanga Wainaina

Wainaina is a middle class Kenyan who shares his childhood in this memoir. There’s no stereotype or cliche here and it’s one of the best ways to get a look inside Kenya from a local. It’s also a modern novel that tells the story of Kenya today, not colonialist narrative. 

 Dust – Yvonne Adhiambo Owuor

Amazon describes this novel as, “Here is a spellbinding novel about a brother and sister who have lost their way; about how myths come to pass, history is written, and war stains us forever.” With multiple storylines weaving the history of the family together with the events that have marked Kenya this novel is a journey through family life and a look into Kenyan society.

 

 

  Say You’re One of Them – Uwern Akpan

This book is a collection of five short stories that take you around Africa and is written by a Nigerian born author. The story set in Kenya is a love story – of two siblings struggling to survive in the slums of Nairobi. Few tourists will ever see this side of life in Kenya but it’s there and important to realize. 

These are just a few of the authors and novels that are either about or set in Kenya or are written by Kenyan authors. Read at least one before your visit to get better acquainted with the country. 

K was always a little bit early. His dad and I found out we were pregnant VERY early in our marriage. My pregnancy was hard and he tried to be born more than once before his due date, finally making an arrival a full month ahead of schedule. He slept little, stopped taking naps early in life. He wakes up early and prefers to finish something fast than slow down and take things in. It’s almost as if he’s always been saying, “I may be the second one but I’m going to grow up fast!”

But, he’s also my baby. He loves to snuggle. He leaves me messages when I’m away working asking when I’ll be home. Ask him when he’s leaving home and he’ll tell you, “NEVER!” Yes, he’s that kind of kid. Because he’s the second born, we’ve spent very little time alone with him, that’s the nature of how it goes when you’re child #2. It’s not on purpose it’s just a matter of circumstance. When it was time to plan our mother/son trip to Kenya I realized it would be the longest stretch of time he and I had spent alone together since his residence was inside my stomach.

While he’s always been early, he’s also very much attached to us. It’s easy to forget that he’s nearly ten years old. When I think back to his brother at the same age they are very different people. Where K is clingy and reserved, M is independent and outgoing. K has taken full advantage of his place as the “baby,” so much so that we do forget how capable he really is. I had no concerns taking M on his trip to Thailand last year. He’s much more like me and I knew his independent, outgoing way would make our trip relatively easy. I was much more nervous with K.

But I shouldn’t have been.

It didn’t take long for me to see that given the chance to be outside of his brothers shadow he is a different person. K falls back on M at every chance he can – he always has. Without his big brother around he took charge. Our trip took us first to Angama Mara one of the most beautiful places I have ever been. We had to take a tiny airplane that landed on a dirt strip to get to the lodge. I was beyond nervous he would get motion sick. He didn’t. When we landed he hopped out and helped with the luggage.  Right away he was asking questions that normally he would would elbow his brother to ask. Sometimes I just sat back in wonder.

On our second day at Angama Mara we did a full day game drive in the Masai Mara. K scouted for animals with our guide Titus. The two of them talked about animals and life the entire ride. K helped Titus set up our picnic lunch overlooking the plains while I looked on. The two of them were thick as thieves and for this mom it was a treat to enjoy my time too. Titus was more than I could have ever asked for in a guide and it was clear that at Angama they had spent a lot of time cultivating the right people to employ. 

We had conversations and engaged in ways that I have never done with him. In this environment he shared with me things he never had; his insecurities, life at school, and his thoughts in general. One night, dinner was held in what can only be described as a magical hidden space. Hundreds of lanterns filled the wooded area and picnic tables were laid out while the kitchen staff grilled local specialties and filled our table with side dishes. We shared our table with two other guests and K regaled them with our safari stories. I saw him become another person. I saw the transition from childhood to adolescence and as much as it made me smile, it also scared me.

As the sun began to set out our window and K drifted off to sleep in bed I had a sinking feeling. I had lost my baby. I watched his eyelids flutter shut and his last sighs of “I love you mama,” while he slipped into his deep rhythmic sleep. I laid there, listening to the sounds outside our tent, watching the wind blow through the curtains and not wanting to move and shatter the moment. He had turned into a young man when I swear it was just yesterday I was rocking him to sleep. 

I lost my baby in the Masai Mara but I gained a lovely child whose going to be an amazing adult one day. 

Our stay at Angama Mara was sponsored by Angama Mara. We highly recommend this lodge should you consider a trip to the Masai Mara region of Kenya. All opinions are my own. 

Once you’ve decided to take a safari it’s time to start planning where to go. As soon as you start to plan there’s a decent chance you’ll get overwhelmed quickly. There are so many safari companies and lodges that it can seem impossible to choose the right safari lodge.  The reality is there is no single “right” location. It’s what’s right for you. Here are a few questions you should ask yourself as you narrow down your choices.

What is Your Safari Budget

Your first consideration is likely to be budget. This makes complete sense. But don’t just go for the cheapest because it’s the cheapest. You also need to consider what I discuss in the last point about inclusions. While the base price may be low, you may face a lot of additional costs with inclusions. Consider the TOTAL you are willing to spend each day, for everything and use this as the filter. Make sure to add in all costs when you begin to compare.

Location and Time of Year

Where do you want to go and what do you want to see? Prices will vary considerably depending on the country and location of the safari. Most of the reserves also charge a fee. More famous or special parks will be more expensive. Traveling in the shoulder seasons can save you money and is a good option for the budget conscious traveler. But if you’re dying to see the wildebeest migration expect to pay a lot more. Take these points into consideration before you book.

Your Wants and Needs

This is really important. Is there one animal that you really want to see? You better choose a location where that animal is found! Does the idea of tent camping make you recoil? Then you’ll want to seek out luxury camps. Make a list of everything that really is a need and what is a want. When you start to look at camps you can see how these match up and filter out the ones that don’t meet your needs.

The Reputation of the Safari Company

There are hundreds if not thousands of safari companies. Some are good and some are bad. Do your homework and really research your top choices. Ask friends and family for their recommendation. Thanks to the internet it’s easier than ever to crowd source information and find out what other people think. TripAdvisor and similar websites are a good place to start looking but don’t stop there. Dig further and ask around. This is a big investment and you want to make sure to have the experience you’re dreaming of. We were extremely happy with Angama Mara, the company we used to visit. The staff was incredible, the vehicles safe, and the rooms impeccable. 

Safari Camp Safety Record

Remember you are not going to a zoo. There are very deadly, wild animals that will become your neighbors while you are on safari. You will also be quite far from a doctor and/or hospital should you need them. What are the camp safety protocols? Do they have any type of barriers or fencing to assist with security? Do they employ guards? Do they have rules for nighttime walking and mechanisms in place if there is an emergency? These are all very important questions that must be asked and understood before you book.

No matter what company you end up using, you should also have external travel insurance. We use World Nomads when we’re traveling. They cover most countries in the world.

Find out more: World Nomads

Is the company and park sustainably managed?

This might seem like one of those “rah rah” quirky environmental things but proper management of camps and parks are imperative if we want these natural environments to exist in years to come. Angama Mara is one of these camps that is dedicated not only to allowing people to have a unique experience in the natural environment but also helping protect it. If you’re going to South Africa Margherita and Nick of Crowded Planet have put together some more great information about volunteering while visiting to make a difference.

What is Included in Your Safari Package

Is the camp all-inclusive or does your base price just cover accommodations? What are the additional costs for food, fees, transportation to the camp, and extra activities? Trust me this can add up really quickly. Don’t eliminate the luxury camps that seem like too much because most of the time they include EVERYTHING and sometimes even cover your cost of transfers.

Disclaimer: We were guests of Angama Mara during our time in the Masai Mara region. All opinions are our own.