Posts Tagged "morocco"
Ouzoud Falls – Morocco
This shot of Ozoud Falls was taken recently by a friend of mine on her Moroccan vacation. I had to share the picture because it was just so beautiful! Ouzoud (it means olives) Falls are located about 150km northeast of Marrakech. It’s a common day trip for tourists. You can rent a private taxi in Marrakech to take you there. There are also buses to Azilal or Beni Mellal after which a shorter taxi ride can be taken.
At the falls there are walking paths as well as cafes and restaurants along the falls. In the summer many people picnic along the falls and ponds. You can also swim in some of the ponds, at your own discretion of course! “Wild” monkeys also inhabit this area, while they’re cute – keep your distance. They’re quite used to people and aren’t very good with boundaries. If you’d like to make this more than just a day trip there are riads available to rent nearby.
I found this very nice review from someone who made the full experience of Ouzoud. So if you’re looking for a way to get away from the hustle and bustle of Marrakech (or any city for that matter), Ouzoud might be just the ticket.
My {Favorite} Things: Moroccan Inspiration
In the spirit of giving back I’m going to be sharing in the next weeks some of my very favorite things. I’m really addicted to Pinterest and have nearly 1,000 pins on last check. (It’s really amazing how fast those pins add up!) Today I’m sharing some of my favorite Moroccan inspired pins – hope you enjoy too!
image by andy castro
image from jaclyn paige
image by koos kinga
These are some of my favorite pins!! If you want to see more make sure to follow my boards on Pinterest!!
Read MoreGrilling Lunch in Essaouira
The first time I went to Essaouira I had only been in the physical presence of my then-fiance 5 days. It was on my second trip to Morocco (the first having been when we met). It was in March and I was on spring break from college. I remember the weather being cold as the city sits on the Atlantic ocean. I also remember there was no way I was eating fish or seafood, although he told me that was why people went to Essaouira. Not this girl. Fast forward six years and my affection for seafood has grown leaps and bounds. I was ready to rock the seafood scene.
Clearly, MarocBaba was ready to rock the seafood scene too. Here he is with the one thing I wanted the most – fresh crab! I have to tell you, we did not opt for the tourist fare. I have a “slight” advantage in MarocBaba, he knows what he’s doing, where to go, and what price to pay. Normally I would have been appalled at this hodge podge meal that we procured but I was just in awe at all that was going on and snapping pictures like crazy. If you go to Essaouira you’ll find stalls with tables right off of the main courtyard in the medina. Great seafood (but that’s for another post). If you continue to walk towards the fishing boats to the port or skala you will find the freshest fish. These crabs were alive in a net dangling off the edge. They were pulled in only a few hours earlier.
Added to our three crabs was 1 kilo of fresh shrimp (in the plastic bag) and 13 fresh salt-packed sardines. My mother in law had some shrimp in Marrakech earlier in the week and they were the best shrimp I’ve ever tasted. Much different from what I’ve had in North America (even when we’ve eaten at places on the coasts that have great reputations). The meat was almost sweet, very tender and moist. It did take more work as it’s still in the shell and heads are attached.
No, that’s not a prison. It’s a restaurant! Well kind of. Behind me, from where I was taking this picture is a walkway and then fishing boats. These little cut-outs were once used by fishermen but have now been converted to eating areas. It’s not glamorous…AT ALL. See that blue rain barrel – yea it’s water for washing your hands. In fact I did think twice before walking down the stairs but figured what did I have to lose. Besides it was all locals eating here – to me that’s a sign of great food. The small smoking tin thing – that’s the grill where our cache would be cooked.
This is where our seafood met their final demise. We cozied up inside the cave and began our wait for what was to be a great meal.
The counters and walls are covered in white tiles and at the end of the “cave” (I’m going to call it cave affectionately) is a counter where drinks, salads and bread can be found. We each got these salads and a plate of a harissa sauce, basket of bread as well as sodas. Then it was time to dig in…
To me…the shrimp and crab were a little overcooked. I shouldn’t have been too surprised as Moroccans really like to cook things well when grilling. They were also a lot of work to clean before eating. I felt like by the time I was done cleaning the piece I was eating I would have burned all the calories consumed making it a never ending meal to feel full! The one big surprise was the sardines. I’ve always avoided them big time. However my only exposure to a sardine was the kind in a can, slimy, and packed in oil. MarocBaba begged me to try these and I really resisted. But then I decided to just go for it. I didn’t hate it. It was a much better taste than what I was expecting. I even ended up eating an entire fish. The downside however was the tiny bones. I can’t do bones and fussed with picking them out. This was met with much clicking of the tongue and pushing to “just eat them”. After buying the fish, having them cooked and paying for our extras our total came out somewhere around $25 US. Where we live, we couldn’t even get 1 lb of fresh crab for that price.
If you go to Essaouira and are adventurous try eating this way. I think you’ll really appreciate the experience.
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USD 139
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Riad Lotus O Marine Hotel is located 250 Kilometres from the shopping area and other key tourist attractions…
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A Night in Marrakech
“Every heart sings a song, incomplete, until another heart whispers back.”~Plato
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Marrakech Street Breakfast
Moroccan breakfasts fit into two different categories. The first is a simple breakfast usually consisting of bread, olive oil, maybe butter or preserves and could include some type of meat and la vache qui rit (or laughing cow cheese triangles that have made their way to American grocery stores). The other type is a sticky honey laden breads, think beghrir, msemmen, cookies or cake.
But there’s a third type too. You’ve got to be adventurous to give it a try…
No guided tour is going to take you to breakfast here, and they’re probably not going to tell you about it either. Chances are you won’t see too many women eating here. At first glance you won’t sit down, you’ll keep walking by.
Set up inside street-side shops are you’ll see scenes similar to this. With large pots or tajines dotting gas burners. For breakfast there are a variety of different options that will vary based on the stall you visit. My favorite is white beans in a tomato sauce. MarocBaba chooses bissara and a stew of lamb stomach. The interior eating area is very simple, maybe rustic is a good word for it. I really had reservations but I was assured it would be good. I wasn’t let down at all and was full for hours.
The plates are cleared and washed immediately. You can have as much bread as you want (the huge baskets under the cooking area let you know there’s plenty to go around). A pot of hot mint tea is standard. As you eat you’ll see many men and boys passing in and out to eat something quickly on their way to work or school. The best part is – the price is a steal. You’ll have a great, filling breakfast for under $3.
We ate at a stand just inside the kasbah of Marrakech. Turn right past the Saadian tombs and about 1/4 mile down the street on the right hand side you’ll see it. Maybe the best indicator that you’re in the right spot – the man serving breakfast has red hair – so if you see him you’ll know you’re in the right spot! Breakfast ends around 11am to be replaced by an equally delicious lunch. Get there early!
On Dreams and Healing Broken Hearts
There are few times in life that we have the chance to make our dreams come true. I have always wanted to have a career that would allow me to help people the most in need. In the 1990′s, as I was growing up, the AIDS epidemic was destroying Africa. I can remember telling my mom “When I’m old enough I just want to go to Africa and hug those babies.” I was 12. The years rolled on and as my peers were making class presentations on football stars and fashion trends I talked about female genital mutilation and the Ben Barka Affair. A totally normal 15 year old right? I guess you could say my heart was always somewhere else.
Then life happened.
At 18 my life changed forever and suffice to say my dreams of Africa went out the window – I had my own baby to hug. I had so much support and a lot of determination to finish university no matter what. Many options were presented but only one was right for me. As hard as it was I had to keep that little person. In doing so, I gave up on all hope I had ever had to make my Africa dream come true. Resigning that dream was soul-crushing.
But Allah (God) had other plans.
I met the other half of my heart, he picked me up, loved me, and brought a new world for me to love. I feel in love with Morocco, the people, the food, the colors and smells but no matter where you are or how wonderful a place seems, lurking under the covers is the dirtier side. It’s not as shiny – frankly it’s pretty ugly.
The first time I saw a woman on the streets with a baby I wanted to give her all that I had. But, there were so many. Then it was like I had walked into a wall. This would have been me. If I wouldn’t have been born where I was – I would be that mother. I walked away on the brink of tears when all I really wanted to do was give her a hug. In all my struggle, I thought I had really done something. But, this mom, she chose her child even if it meant an existence that was dependent on begging.
Over the years these moms and babies have stayed very close in my heart and mind. As the years have gone by my appreciation for the safety net that exists in the United States has only grown greater. I want to give Moroccan women that. I have a dream to open a home in Marrakech for women and their children. It will be a safe place where moms can go to school as well as learning a trade or profession to support themselves. Housing will be provided and cooperative childcare and meals will be standard. When they are ready and able, support will be given to find housing and start them out on a positive note. This dream remains in my heart.
I know that it will take years for me to launch such a program however as we prepared for our last trip this fall I was determined to do something positive. I launched Mobiles for Morocco to bring baby mobiles, clothes, and toys to an orphanage in Marrakech. And, you all responded more than I ever imagined. Within a day of putting up information there were monetary and physical donation pledges made. It kept coming in the days and weeks that followed. As we left I had one large suitcase full of 50 pounds of clothing, mobiles and toys. Nearly $400 came in and many parcels of mobiles and clothes – some from as far away as Ireland! – came. As each new package came I was overflowing with emotion. I had hoped to bring just a few items with but thanks to you I brought A LOT of things!
When the day came I met Nora from Life in Marrakech and her mom to go to the orphanage. We were also joined by her lovely kids as well as MarocBaba. When we arrived I took a deep breathe and in we went. First the baby room where a dozen-or-so little babies lined the walls in their cribs. I was happy they all had names and I wanted to hold them all. One tiny two month old just called out to me. As soon as I picked him up and held him, the tears started.
“I know your mama is missing you tonight,” escaped my mouth.
I kept sucking in air and trying not to cry.
The next two rooms had babies a little older. Nora’s kids helped distribute toys and choose where to place the mobiles. The smiles of these little ones was so contagious. It was harder to hold the older ones because they just wanted to stay in our arms, putting them down was heartbreaking and met with small cries of protest. I remember my own boys at that age squirmed to get out of my arms, these toddlers laid on our shoulders and stayed still. More than one stole my heart.
This orphanage is privately run and most of the children who were there when we were are waiting for paperwork to finish processing before they can go to their forever families. There are a handful of orphanages in Morocco that will adopt orphans to the United States. If you have a Moroccan spouse or are living in Morocco the situation may be different. This specific orphanage does not adopt orphans to the US. Donations however, are always welcome. In addition to caring for these children, the second floor of the building has several guest rooms. Just a short walk from the orphanage is a children’s hospital and the rooms are for parents who have children needing long-term treatment at the hospital.
It wasn’t until my mom pointed out a profound fact about this trip that I realized just how full circle my life had come. She told me that my dream had come true. I wasn’t sure what she meant. She then reminded me of my childhood dreams. The ones I had give up when my life was turned upside down. I followed my heart and did what I thought was right.
And – I did make it to Africa to help orphaned babies.
This will not be the end of my journey or this project. If you would like to get involved or have fundraising ideas for this orphanage please contact me. When these little ones move on, there will be more waiting to take their places.
Putting up a mobile for toddlers.
Mobiles for some smaller babies
If you would like to make a donation directly to this orphanage funds can be transferred to SGMB Al M bank in Marrakech Account # 022 450000 174 000902747453
Guest Post: Ifrane-Retreat in the Atlas Mountains
Today’s guest post comes from Nicole and Gary Winchester of CultureAddict/HistoryNerd a most awesome blog from the Toronto couple. You can also find them on Twitter @addict_nerd. They are sharing about their trip to Ifrane in northern Morocco. Thanks so much for sharing this with my readers Nicole and Gary!
Even after being in Morocco for less than 10 hours, we could tell Ifrane was different. Our first clue was the peaceful stretch of the otherwise mildly terrifying hour-and-a-half ‘grand-taxi’ drive that took us through the National Reserve just east of town. It was cool, leafy green, rocky and reminded me of Highway 7 on the way to Ottawa, on a section just before the turnoff to my old cottage in Marmora. I miss it, so when we weren’t cursing the lack of seatbelts and holding on to the ‘holy s**t’ handles made of nylon straps, I was just taking in the scenery.
Ifrane is generally unexpectedly leafy and green; in summer, refreshingly cool compared to the rest of Morocco; in winter, there’s sometimes snow and there’s skiing just outside of town. That’s what might have inspired its French architects to make it look rather like a village in the Alps – or if you’ve never been to one, what you imagine one might look like.
Back to School
It’s also a college town, home to Al-Akhawayn University (http://www.aui.ma/), founded by King Hassan II and King Fahd of Saudi Arabia. Our friend – the reason we were in Morocco, and frankly, the only reason we’d come to Ifrane in the first place – is a professor at the school, one of many foreigners from around the world hired to teach the best and brightest of the country. Obviously, a tour of the school was on the list. From the rather upscale cars of the students to the pseudo-Swiss-style buildings neatly laid our with tiled walkways between, Al-Akhawayn gives the impression of a small, prestigious, and pricey private university with a student body that fits accordingly – and that’s pretty much what it is.
Given that travelers rarely have the time or the excuse to access places of learning, it was pretty excellent that we were able to visit. Staff and students welcomed us warmly, and we got a tour of Volubilis from a professor with over 30 years experience in the region – not bad! We were also fortunate enough to be welcomed into the university’s mosque, which is a replica of the Koutoubia Mosque in Marrakech. The assistant Imam was happy to show us around the spacious, peaceful rooms with intricate carvings. Some people used the tranquility of the space to study, which made sense to me – besides, I’ve had a few exams that only divine intervention might have helped me pass. Anyway, we were grateful to get an idea of what the larger mosque might be like. Al-Akhawayn also helped Gary out when he got heat stroke – even in the mountains, that sun is no joke, you guys – and we’re also eternally grateful for that!
Stone Lion, Swampy Pond
Pretty much every Moroccan that’s been to Ifrane has a picture with this lion, so you should definitely stop by and get yours. A prisoner carved the statue when Ifrane was used as a POW camp in World War II, commemorating the last wild Atlas lion, shot in the 1920s. Kind of a sad story all around. I wonder if someone’s made a movie of it.
Just a short walk from the lion and the main town square area, there’s a man-made pond called ‘Lac du Ifrane’, with walking paths around it – but there’s some issues with drainage, so the view is nice, but the smell is a little swampy. You’ve been warned.
Food and Drink
As we were staying with our friend and his wife, we were treated to excellent Berber hospitality while at home, and generally good service when out in the restaurants. Our friend Connell’s favorite place was Cafe la Paix (Av. de la Marché Verte, Ifrane), a large cafe with well-dressed waiters and a varied menu of soups, salads, pizzas, pastas and tagines. We went there for a few lunches and had the pizzas and salads, finding both the service and food good for such a small town.
We also went out the Hotel des Perce Neige (Rue des Asphodeles, Ifrane) for a dinner with friends, and though the company was good and the restaurant was well-recommended, we had some difficulties and weren’t impressed. Being vegetarian, I particularly had issues with getting something without meat or fish on it – even a salad. If you’re heading there and have dietary needs, it would be ideal for you to speak French or Arabic to do the explaining yourself. We did, however, try some of the excellent wines grown in the region. Morocco does produce wine, and it’s not bad! I suggest checking some out.
Other Diversions
While we were in Ifrane, there were only a few souvenir shops, convenience stores, a pharmacy, a few other restaurants in the main town square area. However, there’s also now a very well-reviewed luxury spa resort near the university – Hotel Michlifen Ifrane Suites & Spa. That’s certain to appeal to wealthy day-trippers and parents off to visit their son or daughter for the weekend. From the photos and the reviews, we’d love to visit ourselves – but the $230+ CDN/per night pricetag puts it a little beyond our reach.
A side trip we weren’t able to take was the short drive to Azrou to visit a local Berber carpet market about 1.5 km outside of town, held on Tuesdays. We’d hoped to go carpet shopping in the hills and will make a point of doing so next time.
Ifrane is definitely quiet and off the beaten track, but doesn’t come more cheaply for all of that. It’s worth seeing how Moroccans spend their vacations – if you can afford the time and money from yours to do so.
2009 Costs:
Grand Taxi from Meknes to Ifrane: $50 Dirham
Accommodations: Stayed w/friends
Average meal: $20-30 Dirhams per person
Have you been to Ifrane? Would you like to visit?
Read MoreGuest Post – Morocco’s Best Kept Secret
Today’s guest post comes from a good friend of mine, aptly also named Amanda. Amanda lived in Rabat with her husband for two years and has recently returned to the US. During her time in Morocco she wrote a blog but has since taken it down. I’ve asked her to share one of her posts with all of you because frankly she’s an amazing writer and was always very honest about her experiences while living in Morocco. Amanda has agreed to share this post and in a few weeks will be sharing a fresh off the presses new post!
Casablanca, Fes, Marrakesh, Tangier, Rabat…these are the cities one associates easily with Morocco. But, Morocco’s best kept secret is El Jadida. It’s a small town on the Atlantic Coast two hours south of Rabat. Many Moroccan’s spend their summer vacations there, but you won’t find many foreign traveler’s along the long stretches of beaches. I know about El Jadida because my husband’s family lives in a beautiful house. We spent two great and relaxing days there with my parents. The one thing I never thought I’d get to witness when it came to our marriage was our parents meeting. My mother-in-law pulled out all the stops to welcome us with gorgeous sweets, dried fruits, her famous gamila and harira recipes and couscous.
My father loved hanging out on the small balcony watching all the sellers coming down the neighborhood streets selling vegetables, fish, and chandeliers (yes as in crystal light fixtures). He even got to hear the call of my favorite seller who sounds, from far away, like he’s yelling for watermelons, but as he gets closer you see his cart full of sardines.
We visited the famed Sidi Bouzid beach for an afternoon of sun (under the umbrella), surf, and ice cream. The beach is always crowded with people of all ages. The beach stretches really far and a long walk in the cold water is a great way to cool off. You’ll find young men roaming up and down the beach with ice cream, candies, coffee, and soft drinks. The beach is guarded by life-guards who can’t be missed in their beyond neon yellow and red uniforms. Parking along the beach’s boardwalk is easy, and there are usually plenty of spots available. You’ll pay 5 DH to the attendant who helps you get in and out of the parallel spaces.
At night, Sidi Bouzid remains one of the places to be with a stroll along the boardwalk. You’ll find many people walking along the well lit sidewalk. The bright lights also shine on the beach where you’re likely to see camels and donkeys dressed up for photo opportunities. Sidi Bouzid isn’t the only night spot, as the medina also offers a lively atmosphere. Though the stores along the main strip are closed, plenty of places are open and La Plage, the downtown beach is also another nice walk. That’s where we spent our evening. In the summer, there’s bound to be a small carnival with a few games and rides, and I saw a bunch of tents we never quite made it too that were probably a summer souk set up for the tourists. I made the mistake of riding with my sister-in-law on an innocent looking ride that I ended up screaming on the whole time. I felt like it was going to throw me off at every dip and dive. Poor girl, I know I embarrassed her to death as I kept yelling “I want to get off this ride!!!” every time we passed my parents and husband. The Ibis Hotel* faces this particular beach, so it’s a great place to stay if you’re going to visit overnight. Overall, downtown has a great mix of modern life with small town charm than some of the other cities.
El Jadida has a rich history that I’ve read about, but if you don’t mind I don’t really feel like citations today, so I won’t get into the details. I’m not much of a history buff anyway. It has the best year-round weather in the whole country (as far as I’ve experienced at least). The summer’s can get hot, but the cool ocean breeze can be felt far into the neighborhoods. The winters are cool, but not as cold as I felt in Rabat. I was very happy to travel there twice this past winter where I knew a break from the cold would be found. It is what I would call an up and coming city as a lot of the homes and apartment buildings that have been recently built or in the process, and its spreading rapidly. Its home to one of the large phosphate companies of Morocco and therefore, people living in El Jadida enjoy a more middle-class lifestyle for the most part. There are plenty of grocery stores including Acima and Label Vie, as well as a host of restaurants and good shopping. There are still a few souks for the more traditional shoppers, but you’ll find them more for the locals with fresh produce, fish and meats. If you travel there in mid-August, a big “circus” downtown makes a great evening with concerts, rides and games, and a huge souk with tons of things to buy.
The drawback to El Jadida is that it’s not as public transportation friendly as many of the other cities. There are a few buses running mainly in the medina area, and taxis are available. There is a train station, so getting there is easy, but it’s located on the very outskirts of the town. Getting a taxi from the train station to anywhere is a good test in patience and endurance. The best trick is to walk down the road a bit to call a taxi before it can get to the crowds waiting near the station. The only taxis that come are petit taxis, so if you’re traveling with more than 3 people, you’ll need additional taxis.
All date stamped photos are courtesy of the fabulous photographer also known as my dad!
MarocMama
pssst.. don’t forget to enter this week’s giveaway! Very very cute eco-friendly Totebag from Blue Sky Collection
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