MarocMama

eat well, travel often, dream big!

Taking Photographs (or not) in Marrakech

Marrakech has the kind of light quality photographers dream of. Rarely do we have overcast days and typically I can shoot pictures using my camera in full automatic because it captures so well. There are also amazing sites to take in – things you don’t want to forget. It’s so tempting to have your camera at the ready at all times and snap away. But, chances are your DSLR lens may get in the way of you having a pleasant and memorable vacation.

When I first came here I always used my bigger DSLR camera to take pictures. Now, I only use it if I know I need to capture high resolution images. Are you surprised to know that a lot of the pictures I use on here are really from my iPhone? I learned rather quickly most people don’t care for your camera in their face or on their products. It’s not because they’re rude or dislike you personally (so please don’t take it that way!) it’s that with tens of thousands of tourists in the city on any given day it gets old, fast. I’ve never lived somewhere that was this touristic so I didn’t get it, but I do now.

This doesn’t mean you can’t use your camera and take pictures, it just means you need to consider a few things before snapping away.

This is Not a Zoo

This city is not a zoo and the people are not on display. I know the bright colored djallabas of women are so wonderful you want to snap those pictures. You might think the foods we’re eating are new and strange. Those cute kids are just begging to be recorded on film aren’t they? Before you click, think. If this were your home and it was you or your children on the other side of the camera would you want conceivably hundreds or even thousands of people a year taking pictures for their personal use? One way to get pictures of things you’d like to capture is to have someone else in the shot, perhaps your traveling partner. Take it from a different angle so that people aren’t caught off guard. But always mind your manners.

Interactive Shots Marrakech

Get Out from Behind the Camera

Whether it’s a video or still camera, if you’ve got it up to your eye the entire time you’re in Morocco you’re going to miss out on a lot of things. Resist the urge to capture every small detail on film and instead live the experience of Morocco. Trust me, your memories will be much more meaningful. Not everything needs to be captured in images.

Ask Permission

I really waver on this point. In some instances it makes no difference whether you ask or not. Someone likely isn’t going to care if you photograph something mundane. But you do find that people at times don’t want their products photographed (so that someone else can’t copy them), or they just don’t want it photographed. If you’re wanting to take a picture of a person’s face, always ask permission. If you want to photograph a child, always ask their parents. If there is no parent around, then don’t take the picture. Instead of shooting a straight on image you can also take a picture of the scene. Most people are alright with this. Most importantly, if someone doesn’t want to be photographed don’t be rude or act “fed up.”

Landscape picture High Atlas Mountains

Landscapes

You’ll be able to get the best, high quality images of landscapes for a few reasons. First, they aren’t going anywhere. You can take your time, set up your camera and take many shots to make sure you’ve got it right. Try it from different angles and focal points. Even different times of the day can create a totally new image.

The Golden Hours

Sunrise and sunset provide amazing lighting for photography. Get up early and take advantage of not only fewer crowds but beautiful natural lights. By using these early morning and late afternoon hours you’ll capture some great shots and leave time in between to do other things.

Marrakech Sunset

Portraits

Here’s the thing. Most Moroccans don’t like their photograph to be taken. Whether it’s because they’re religiously conservative or simply don’t care for it, you’re going to find these kinds of pictures difficult to take. But that doesn’t mean it’s impossible. If you befriend or form some rapport with Moroccans you can usually ask for a picture. Whatever you do, don’t just throw up your camera and take a picture, nor should you use a long lens and try to do it sneakily from a distance. You can always ask someone, and while many may be more than happy you probably will find several that say no. Don’t let it get to you, simply say ok and walk away. Many people discover that taking pictures in Marrakech is harder than anywhere else in Morocco. My own opinion on why this is, is due to saturation. There are so many tourists that it can be very overwhelming to be photographed multiple times a day.

Bread Oven in Marrakech

Get Help

If you’re a photographer or you just really want to take some nice pictures while on vacation in Morocco, hiring a guide to show you around also can mean they can assist with getting pictures. This is also a great tip if you’re a serious photographer. Morocco is  a large country and if you want to visit many places in a short time you’ll need some help. If there’s something that you really want to photograph, having a guide can ensure that it happens. Many times you’ll be able to communicate to a guide what you’re trying to capture. Is it etched calligraphy? Street scenes? A guide will know the area more intimately than you will and can save you a lot of time.

MarocBaba almost always is with me when I’m taking high resolution images. Not because I couldn’t ask or speak with the subjects but because he knows many of them and knows exactly what to say. Because they trust him, they trust that the images will not be used in a bad way.

Hire a Guide to Help Get Photographs

Sit and Wait

I’ve taken some of my favorite pictures simply by having my camera ready while sitting in a cafe, or pulling over on the side of the road. People watching is interesting in and of itself but as you watch scenes unfold you may find the right time to take a picture that tells that story. I took a series of photos of people walking down the street in the medina one day. I just liked how the tile, feet, and patterns all fell together. Check out my walk a mile post to see what I mean.

Old Man in Djem al Fna

Take multiple shots

Rarely is your first photograph going to be the best. Take many, many images and then narrow them down to the ones you like the best. I never edit on my camera because when I load the pictures on my computer they look so different. A picture that looked beautiful on my camera screen suddenly is a blurry mess on my computer. This is why it’s helpful to have many options to choose from. Zoom lenses and digital cameras with a good zoom can help you go unnoticed and take several pictures. Try standing on a rooftop or to the side of a street and zooming on subjects further away. You’ll be able to take several images of natural interactions without being invasive.

Animals in the Square

Carry Change

You might not be asked but sometimes people request money in exchange for an image. 5-10 dirham should be more than enough, though you may find they badger for more. Never give more than 20 dirham. Don’t automatically give money because some people don’t care but it’s always good to have just in case. If you want to take pictures of or with any of the animals or actors in Djem al Fna you should be prepared to give some money in exchange. You’ll also want to weigh whether or not you want the picture. Typically they’re posed shots similar to the one above. It might be just what you’re looking for, or it could be the exact opposite.

Smaller is Better

As I mentioned earlier most of the pictures I take (and share on my blog and Instagram) I take using my iPhone camera. Why? There’s a few reasons. I can often snap a picture very quickly and it just looks like I’m checking my messages. I am able to get more candid scenes this way. A favorite trick I use is to turn off the sound of my phone and use the volume button to take pictures while I walk. Likewise if I have headphones in, I will put one in my ear and hold the other, stabilizing the phone in one hand and using the ear piece toggle button in the other hand as a remote. It’s complete innocuous and no one really knows what I’m doing.

Many people use DSLR cameras while visiting Morocco and the majority are not professional photographers. If this is you, then explaining to people that you’re not publishing the images may help them to be more open and willing to be photographed. Once you’ve taken a picture it can be a nice gesture to show the subject so that they can “sign off” on it. If you’re using 35mm film then explain to them that it’s not digital so they won’t be able to see.

Participate in Activities

Get Involved with Different Activities

Walking around any place will provide for some great photos but getting involved with other activities can give you a completely different perspective. Cooking classes provide some amazing food shots. Touring a ceramics factory or artisnal shop could provide portraits, action shots and a glimpse into culture. These activities also can provide a controlled environment to work in. A guide and/or instructor can help you understand the photographic etiquette and better understanding of the environment beyond what your eye sees.

My friend Chris Griffiths (an amazingly talented young photographer) shared some of these tips with me, while others I’ve come up with from my own experience. If you’re looking for more technical tips and how-to’s I loved this video from Zack Arias on street photography. Several of his tips I’ve used to grab great pictures.

The biggest thing to keep in mind is really to mind your manners. Put yourself on the other side of the camera before you take pictures and trust your instincts.

I hope these tips help you when you’re visiting Marrakech and wanting to capture the magic!

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At Home in Marrakech

 
“Immediately when you arrive in Sahara, for the first or the tenth time, you notice the stillness. An incredible, absolute silence prevails outside the towns; and within, even in busy places like the markets, there is a hushed quality in the air, as if the quiet were a conscious force which, resenting the intrusion of sound, minimizes and disperses sound straightway. Then there is the sky, compared to which all other skies seem fainthearted efforts. Solid and luminous, it is always the focal point of the landscape. At sunset, the precise, curved shadow of the earth rises into it swiftly from the horizon, cutting into light section and dark section. When all daylight is gone, and the space is thick with stars, it is still of an intense and burning blue, darkest directly overhead and paling toward the earth, so that the night never really goes dark.
 
You leave the gate of the fort or town behind, pass the camels lying outside, go up into the dunes, or out onto the hard, stony plain and stand awhile alone. Presently, you will either shiver and hurry back inside the walls, or you will go on standing there and let something very peculiar happens to you, something that everyone who lives there has undergone and which the French call ‘le bapteme de solitude.’ It is a unique sensation, and it has nothing to do with loneliness, for loneliness presupposes memory. Here in this wholly mineral landscape lighted by stars like flares, even memory disappears…A strange, and by no means pleasant, process of reintergration begins inside you, and you have the choice of fighting against it, and insisting on remaining the person you have always been, or letting it takes its course. For no one who has stayed in the Sahara for a while is quite the same as when he came.
 
…Perhaps the logical question to ask at this point is: Why go? The answer is that when a man has been there and undergone the baptism of solitude he can’t help himself. Once he has been under the spell of the vast luminous, silent country, no other places is quite strong enough for him, no other surroundings can provide the supremely satisfying sensation of existing in the midst of something that is absolute.
 

He will go back, whatever the cost in time or money, for the absolute has no price.”

 
― Paul BowlesTheir Heads are Green and Their Hands are Blue: Scenes from the Non-Christian World

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What’s better than letting a 5 year old paint a car?  Nothing!

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Wordless Wednesday: Nets

nets on the beach

 

“The Sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever.”

 

 –Jacques Cousteau

Nets washed to the shores of Essaouira, Morocco October 2012

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sunset in essaouaira

It’s far beyond the star
It’s near beyond the moon
I know beyond a doubt
My heart will lead me there soon

We’ll meet beyond the shore
We’ll kiss just as before
Happy we’ll be, beyond the sea
And never again I’ll go sailin’

~Frank Sinatra “Somewhere Beyond the Sea”

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“There is never any ending to Paris, and the memory of each person who has lived in it differs from that of any other. Paris was always worth it, and you received return for whatever you brought to it…”

Ernest Hemingway, in A Moveable Feast

 

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Word-full Wednesday: Perspective

marrakech window inside perspective
 
“The alchemist picked up a book that someone in the caravan had brought. Leafing through the pages, he found a story about Narcissus.
 
The alchemist knew the legend of Narcissus, a youth who knelt daily beside a lake to contemplate his own beauty. He was so fascinated by himself that, one morning, he fell into the lake and drowned. At the spot where he fell, a flower was born, which was called the narcissus.
 
But this was not how the author of the book ended the story.
 
He said that when Narcissus died, the goddesses of the forest appeared and found the lake, which had been fresh water, transformed into a lake of salty tears.
 
‘Why do you weep?’ the goddesses asked.
 
‘I weep for Narcissus,” the lake replied.
 
‘Ah, it is no surprise that you weep for Narcissus,’ they said, ‘for though we always pursued him in the forest, you alone could contemplate his beauty close at hand.’
 
‘But… was Narcissus beautiful?’ the lake asked.
 
‘Who better than you to know that?’ the goddesses asked in wonder. ‘After all, it was by your banks that he knelt each day to contemplate himself!’
 
The lake was silent for some time. Finally, it said:
 
‘I weep for Narcissus, but I never noticed that Narcissus was beautiful. I weep because, each time he knelt beside my banks, I could see, in the depths of his eyes, my own beauty reflected.’
 
‘What a lovely story,’ the alchemist thought.”
― Paulo CoelhoThe Alchemist
 
marrakech window outside perspective

Sometimes it’s all in how you look at things….

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